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After I lifted my truck I noticed the obvious problem of the stock driveshaft being too short now. It has been working just fine in stock length (almost 4 years now). I was doing some thinking today while I was greasing my u-joints. Can I just install a CV collar on each of my shafts to obtain the needed 2 inches or so of extended length? I've searched FTE for about an hour and haven't seen any info on this. Has anybody tried this? I priced a custom built shaft and at over $450, I feel I can build one myself for under $100 from JBG.
I assume you really mean a double cardan joint? It has 2 ujoints and a center pivot ball. Most people call these CV joints, but a true CV joint is a different animal.
As far as the double cardan joint goes, the answer is no. There is a special end on the driveshaft to support the center ball. It is attached as a welded end piece to the driveshaft tube.
It amazes me the prices driveshaft shops charge. I fortunately have a shop within an hour of me that does a wonderful job and is not expensive. I know I will have to get my heavy walled 1410 type ujoint driveshaft lengthed for my latest Cummins and now Chevy 14 bolt rear setup. I can probably get it done for $100 - $130 for a new longer center tube and balancing.
A driveshaft shop can reuse your ends and just put a longer tube in. No need for all new parts.
As stated, converting to a CV is both expensive and involved. The weld yoke on the shaft is different, and the yoke on the output is also different. In my case I had to swith to a companion flange on the rear of the T-case. The pinion angle is important because the 2 u-joints in the CV head take up all the angle while the pinion is pointed straight at them which is why I cut the spring perches off the axle, rotated it and welded the perches back on. Another option for lengthening you shaft would be to find one at a wrecking yard. It's doubtful that you will find one the exact length you need with the size U-joints you need (though I did luck out on one years ago) but shortening them typically costs less than lengthening. So if you find a suitable one at a pull your part and have it cut down you may come out money ahead.
Here's what a CV head looks like before being welded to the shaft. That's a 1410 next to the H yoke from the last 1330 I broke.
Here's everything installed. Note the flange on the T-case and the pinion angle. I have to run a CV because of the height of my truck and the shortness of the rear shaft due to the divorced case.
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