Compared to what? Dropping in one at random?? You're smoking your socks if you believe that. No, it might not be "perfect", but it's a matter of degree.

Personally I enjoyed learning as much as I could about ignition timing and distributor curving on these old trucks, it's a good hobby. But not everybody has the time or inclination to do that. Apparently this guy doesn't want to be bothered. The last figures I found for Faron Rhoads, if you send him your distributor he'll set it up for $90 for your application. I spent many hours getting mine dialed in, sure there's a learning curve.

What I can't figure out is how someone can balk at a few bills on a new dizzy after rebuilding a fresh motor. Well maybe I can, did it myself come to think of it. It ran a LOT better with a fresh distributor, but it had heavy springs and wasn't done advancing till around 4500 RPM. I think it had 36 degrees of mechanical advance. Most factory internal distributor advance is very conservative to allow for differing conditions, but for better performance the curve has to be modified.

It's just good practice is all I'm saying, to use good parts and have them dialed in from the start. A few engine rebuilders for example, refuse warranty service unless a new water pump and radiator are used on startup or somesuch. A defective distributor could also cause starting problems, something that is definitely not wanted during the critical ~20 minute cam break-in period. They all come supplied with el-cheapo points and condensers these days.

http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/advance.htm

 

Isn't that exactly what you're recommending ? Seems to me it's no different. You're sending one off to some guy who claims to be an expert when in reality, he's just bought a distributor machine and has set himself up in business, claiming to know all the "magical" combinations of distributor curves. There's no way he knows those combinations, without having a chassis dyno and the customer's running vehicle to experiment with. I'm not the smoking something here. I'm dealing with reality.

 

Unfortunately this is exactly the type of answers I didn't want. I am on a budget building this truck simply because I can't drop $20,000 on a custom truck with three small kids to feed. I just want to get this thing running and then down the road I can worry about performance. After measuring, there is approximately 1/8 inch up and down play. I figure I will throw some new points, cap and vacuum advance on it and get it running.
Thanks for the help

 

And let's call a distributor a distributor... calling it a dizzy sound a little..... well...cute..

 

Let me look and see what I have in my shop. You're in the service, right ? If you are I'd be glad to hook you up with a distributor on me. I think I have one stuck in the 5.0 I have sitting in the back of my shop that's a reman with almost no run time on it.

 

Yes I am in the Army stationed at Ft. Rucker, AL. I have had this truck for 7 yrs now and the engine for 4. I just got around to getting it rebuilt and would love to get it in the truck and hear it run! Thanks

 

I'll get back to this evening. If it were still peanut season, I'd have the chance to get over there myself to bring it to you. The trucking company I work for hauls Peanut oil out of Enterprise.

 

Gotta love the peanuts around here especially when they start grinding them up. If you have allergys then good luck

 

Bad news. The only points distributor I have is for a 351W. Thought I had a 302 unit, but the one in the motor in the shop is a duraspark distributor. You're welcome to it, but you'd have to wire the truck for it. Don't recall what I did with that 302 distributor I had. I had a box of em, but I can't find those either. Might have tossed em in the truck with a load of scrap some time ago.

 

I appreciate you looking. I am going to take mine in to a guy today to look at it.

 

Sounds like a personal problem.

You a crewchief? Or maybe supply? A mechanic should have a good understanding on how stuff works, and why cutting corners just doesn't work. Don't install worn out, questionable parts on a brand new engine. It costs what it costs.

What you want to avoid for example, is wiping a cam lobe because the damn thing won't start, things like that.

If a $100 is cramping your style during an engine rebuild, maybe this ain't the hobby for you.

 

If the fact that he's not following your recommendations cramps your style, maybe this forum isn't the hobby you thought it was. Move along. He's asked for advice not personal insults.

 

Woah hoss, take a chill pill. I think maybe you need to learn to read for content. It's all laid out pretty clearly.

He has a newly rebuilt engine. Sounds to me like it hasn't been fired or broke in yet.

Since you asked. It's real easy to wipe a cam lobe with a new engine that won't start - excessive cranking - the name of the game on a rebuild is to get it fired right away and run it up at 2000-2500 RPM for 20 minutes or so. Experienced mechanics know this, and do everything possible to ensure it starts right up without any drama. Hope this helps.

 

You a crewchief? Or maybe supply? A mechanic should have a good understanding on how stuff works, and why cutting corners just doesn't work. Don't install worn out, questionable parts on a brand new engine. It costs what it costs.


If a $100 is cramping your style during an engine rebuild, maybe this ain't the hobby for you.[/QUOTE]

I am a pilot and I do understand how things work... most of the expensive parts that people love to run have been copied and ripped off by china, so just because it's cheap doesn't necessarily mean it's crap. I am trying to build a hotrod on a budget and also support a family. I don't need to run the most expensive setup possible, I just want to get the thing going down the road.

 

Hoss ? Really ? Your condescending attitude is the problem here. You need to proofread your posts for content if you think you've been misunderstood.