Good job. ���� Now all you have to do is get it primed before you have to do it again.

 

I wouldn't allow a bottle of muriatic acid in my shop. That stuff is way too strong, I used some to clean copper bars before I tinned them. Cleaned the copper great but any unpainted steel had surface rust the next morning. I also had over a half gallon of the crap to get rid of. Deluted with water, poured into the water not water into the acid, very bad, then dumped box after box of baking soda into the wa termed down solution to neutralize it. The phosphoric acid solutions are milder and leave a filt the will hold off the formation if surface rust for a while.

 

Apple cider vinegar idea looks like it worked very well. Always chicken when hitting metal with a grinder.

 

You must get all that rust off.it will come back.sorry just trying to help.metal prep done properly and diluted properly is great stuff.

 

this is my last car wat metal prep looks like finished plus it gives a good tooth for epoxy

 

I agree with John, acid dip is the best but sandblasting is second best, once you have it bare medal you need to use a etch primer, which has a acid in it to help neutralize the rust that left in the pits, do not ever put fill over etch primer.after you use etch you can primer or seal over it. IMHO, I've been doing body and paint for over 30 yrs.

 

Witj todays epoxy etch is pretty much obsolete.etch has acid for better tooth.todays epoxy is excellent.no need for etch.etch is a laquer product.epoxy is far more superior.

 

Still not sure? Try this. Take a thick rag and put it on the surface, pour some vinegar on it to get it nice and wet. Wait an hour and take the wet rag off. Look at the surface. If there is no rust, wash it good with a neutralizing agent, (sodium hydroxide) then prime and paint.

Later!
Mr. Ed

 

Let's go back to basics. Rust is oxidized iron. If you remove the oxygen you stop the rust process. Epoxy paint should do a great job of that.

 

All rust needs is one molecule of oxygen and its back.cmon guys just trying to help.all rust must be completly removed.forget google searches or band aid solutions.you gonna spend 25000 restoring your truk and cheap out on a couple of hours to remove rust?

 

One molecule of oxygen (O) will combine with one molecule of iron (Fe) to make exactly one molecule of ferrous oxide (FeO) "rust"...I very seriously doubt that anyone would find one molecule of rust anywhere on a vehicle. That said, there is not a vehicle made that does not have at least one molecule of rust already on it. Make your point, don't exaggerate, and leave it at that...

 

I know that must people don't like rust converters but I have used the with great success. 20+ years ago I had to repair the rear fenders on my F-2. They were rotted out messes but I couldn't find decent replacements. I cut out the 3-4" along the area where they mount to the box and replaced the bottom 5-6" in front and behind the wheel opening but top side and the area where the sheet metal curves down had deep rust. I knew if I blasted them I'd end up with Swiss cheese. I DAed them within 36 grit paper and applies a coating of Extend rust converter, let is dry and sanded the fenders down again, applied epoxy primer, finished them off and painted them. It's been over 20 years and they still looked good with no signs of the rust popping through. I now prefer the acid method, get it all out if possible. I don't like blasting although I still do it on bigger heavier parts like frames and along the areas where sheet metal is formed over like door edges, but never on big areas like hoods, especially hoods where you're going to see any imperfections whenever you drive your vehicle.

 

you missed my point.how many repaint jobs have you seen were within a year the rust spots come right back.its because all the rust was not completly removed.

 

Returning rust can be caused by a variety of reasons. But it is usually caused because of panel perforation behind the repair. Also by poor or lack of primer or lack of rust treatment. There can also be a mismatch in paint chemistry one coat to another causing fine cracks to develop over time. That is what is nice about 2-part epoxy paint. It can go over any type of paint.

The problem with some old OEM paint job is that in order to save money color coats were reduced to the point where they no longer protected primer against the sun's UV rays. The result was a graying of the paint on upper surfaces like hoods, roofs and deck lids accompanied by a peeling of clearcoat upper paint as the primer deteriorated. Many foreign OEs had that problem in the early '90s, Audi was one of the worst, but some of the U.S. plants had the same problem at various times if they did not watch their color coat thicknesses. When the primer deteriorates you can't just paint over it, it needs the be stripped and taken down to bare metal and re-primed as the deterioration is a chemical reaction not a strict oxidation. If that isn't done then spots will start to crack and peel and then rust will start to appear.

Most cars built this century have their bodies dipped in a trough of rust converter, then that is rinsed off all top surfaces with ph neutral water, then the body is oven dried, then UV resistant powder primer is applied, then heated and cured in long ovens, then color coat is applied usually by robots except for special fleet colors and finally clearcoat is applied.

 

100% correct