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I believe the assembly is like a standard truck tool box and is removable or at least rekey- able by a lock smith. And it is a small key like a gas cap.
Correct, just like an in-bed toolbox. Mine is neither polished nor chrome, it's galvanized mild steel. That's what I've seen for most of them.
Mine also seems to be neither polished or chrome. It is functional now (with the exception of the lock mechanism, which needs to be rekeyed), but it does look very tarnished. On my list of things to try to clean up, but haven't given it any effort yet. Will likely use steel wool and a phosphoric acid based cleaner when I do so, followed by some boeshield t9 to prevent rust go forward.
I never had a lockable glove box but that tool box door should have been something similar to a Y11 or Y13 which is a Yale blank and copied/used by a kazillion mfg's.
That lock cylinder is easily removed and rekeying should be a no brainer for a locksmith. Finding a new cylinder off the shelf to replace it completely is a totally diff story. It took me a half day of mods to get that one done.
I highly recommend trying to save the original key cylinder if possible.
By the way...if your cable stop is broken, I found some stainless one's at a marine supply. Worked very well.
AAAaaaaaand the replacement seals are a PITA. The one's I used we not molded in the shape of the door. Just need a bunch of tape to hold in place as you work around the door. It will take a while for it to relax and let the door shut flush.
Great info from all you gurus!!
I'll polish up the latch and see what it looks like.
Will also pull the lock cylinder and visit a locksmith.
Thanks again
Tbruz
I completely disassembled mine, sandblasted and painted it black. I'll get pix later. I replaced my lock with one from menards, the only issue I had was that the new one has a larger screw holding it together while factory was more flush. I solved that issue by drilling a hole where the screw made contact. Pretty easy fix and now mine is good as new.
I completely disassembled mine, sandblasted and painted it black. I'll get pix later. I replaced my lock with one from menards, the only issue I had was that the new one has a nut holding it together while factory was more flush. I solved that issue by drilling a hole where the nut made contact. Pretty easy fix and now mine is good as new.
Nice. Was also thinking of painting it, but am hesitant. Looking forward to the pictures of yours.
I completely disassembled mine, sandblasted and painted it black. I'll get pix later. I replaced my lock with one from menards, the only issue I had was that the new one has a nut holding it together while factory was more flush. I solved that issue by drilling a hole where the nut made contact. Pretty easy fix and now mine is good as new.
I'd like to see a pic of that latch. IIRC the new cylinder had a various pieces of flat that turned to lock the door(held on by nut). The newer replacement latch had to be modified cause it would not hold the door shut completely. Seems like it was too long and I was using the shortest key cylinder I could find.
It wasn't a prob holding the cylinder to the latch...it was the key cylinder being the right length with the tab in place.