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Bedside tool box latch question

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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 04:26 PM
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Bedside tool box latch question

Latest project will be adding the bedside toolbox to my 75 Highboy.

Question 1: Can the lock cylinder be removed and re-keyed to match either the ignition or the glovebox lock

Question 2: the latch I have is pretty rusty/crusty, where these latches originally chrome or just a polished metal?
Thanks in advance
Tbruz
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 05:05 PM
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I've never seen a chrome one and I've never tried to key one, do they use and ignition style key? It looked like a smaller opening to me.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 05:07 PM
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I believe the assembly is like a standard truck tool box and is removable or at least rekey- able by a lock smith. And it is a small key like a gas cap.

I yes I am pretty sure chrome.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 05:28 PM
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Correct, just like an in-bed toolbox. Mine is neither polished nor chrome, it's galvanized mild steel. That's what I've seen for most of them.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tbruz
Latest project will be adding the bedside toolbox to my 75 Highboy.

Can the lock cylinder be removed and re-keyed to match either the ignition or the glovebox lock
It's not a Ford key, so it cannot be recoded to match.

Upper pic:
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bryanmartin
Correct, just like an in-bed toolbox. Mine is neither polished nor chrome, it's galvanized mild steel. That's what I've seen for most of them.
Mine also seems to be neither polished or chrome. It is functional now (with the exception of the lock mechanism, which needs to be rekeyed), but it does look very tarnished. On my list of things to try to clean up, but haven't given it any effort yet. Will likely use steel wool and a phosphoric acid based cleaner when I do so, followed by some boeshield t9 to prevent rust go forward.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 07:15 PM
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I never had a lockable glove box but that tool box door should have been something similar to a Y11 or Y13 which is a Yale blank and copied/used by a kazillion mfg's.

That lock cylinder is easily removed and rekeying should be a no brainer for a locksmith. Finding a new cylinder off the shelf to replace it completely is a totally diff story. It took me a half day of mods to get that one done.

I highly recommend trying to save the original key cylinder if possible.

By the way...if your cable stop is broken, I found some stainless one's at a marine supply. Worked very well.

AAAaaaaaand the replacement seals are a PITA. The one's I used we not molded in the shape of the door. Just need a bunch of tape to hold in place as you work around the door. It will take a while for it to relax and let the door shut flush.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 07:22 PM
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Great info from all you gurus!!
I'll polish up the latch and see what it looks like.
Will also pull the lock cylinder and visit a locksmith.
Thanks again
Tbruz
 
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 06:39 AM
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I completely disassembled mine, sandblasted and painted it black. I'll get pix later. I replaced my lock with one from menards, the only issue I had was that the new one has a larger screw holding it together while factory was more flush. I solved that issue by drilling a hole where the screw made contact. Pretty easy fix and now mine is good as new.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by brian1080
I completely disassembled mine, sandblasted and painted it black. I'll get pix later. I replaced my lock with one from menards, the only issue I had was that the new one has a nut holding it together while factory was more flush. I solved that issue by drilling a hole where the nut made contact. Pretty easy fix and now mine is good as new.
Nice. Was also thinking of painting it, but am hesitant. Looking forward to the pictures of yours.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by brian1080
I completely disassembled mine, sandblasted and painted it black. I'll get pix later. I replaced my lock with one from menards, the only issue I had was that the new one has a nut holding it together while factory was more flush. I solved that issue by drilling a hole where the nut made contact. Pretty easy fix and now mine is good as new.
I'd like to see a pic of that latch. IIRC the new cylinder had a various pieces of flat that turned to lock the door(held on by nut). The newer replacement latch had to be modified cause it would not hold the door shut completely. Seems like it was too long and I was using the shortest key cylinder I could find.

It wasn't a prob holding the cylinder to the latch...it was the key cylinder being the right length with the tab in place.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 04:08 PM
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I reused the tab from the original tumbler. I'll be home in a couple hours and wiill show you.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 07:01 PM
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Here's what I believe is one of the original keys to my bedside toolbox. Functions like new.

Manufacturer and code are on it, locksmith should be able to tell what kind of key it is, hope it helps.




 
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 07:11 PM
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 07:16 PM
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Bottom pic is the pieces left over. I think I reused the actual threaded part, just swapped the tumbler
 
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