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Just checking for anyone thought's. 1951 F-1. I am shortening the box by 11" and was wondering if there is a factory frame out there that would work or is the best route to also shorten the original frame? I am sure some out there just cringed when they read this, but truck is to far from original to restore, so this one is a street rod. Thanks, Whistler
Don't worry, some users may cringe, but others are more accepting I'm in the same sort of situation as you are, however doing just the opposite. I'm building an 52' F-3 extended cab, adding 20 inches to both the cab and frame.
Instead of finding a newer frame to modify to fit, I'm simply adding the length to the stock frame. But I think you could go either way, although I'm not certain what frames might fit, you might wanna check into the wheelbase on a Ford ranger though.
Other that that, I know I'd love to see pictures of your truck. Its nice to know others out there are as crazy as I am. The thing is too, the truck I started with was almost beyond the point of even trying to fix, thats why I chose suck a drastic modification. That way the die hard stockers don't need to complain so much cuz I didn't destroy a beautiful stock body.
Whistler,
Welcome to FTE, and cut away, my friend! I, too would like to see pics of the project.
You might do some checking in recent truck magazines as there are a couple that have shortened 60's vintage Chebbies from long box to short box versions. I recall one that made the cut in a straight section of frame and angled the cuts (parallel) so that the resulting splice was canted, not straight up and down. Another took a "Z" shaped cut and used a diamond shaped plate on the inside of the frame to add strength. You can check out some pics at www.ebfabman.com Look at pics 14 through 17 to see how he did it.
I worked at a place that did armoured strecth limos, made a straight cut, inserted box beam and welded all available edges. When completed a strecth Caddy would push 9500 lbs.
I've seen a '55 with a 4.5 foot box, looked cool. I thought about this before, but have other things to do right now than chop up my frame. I thought that I could notch the frame in two places and then bend it to shorten and drop the rear of the truck. I think that that may be too complicated for me to do right. But maybe some day.
Are you taking it all from the front or a little from the back too?
There is a great picture article in this month's CLASSIC TRUCK mag. The are shortening a 65 ch**y long box. They cut some from the back and some from the front, then shortened the frame, exhaust, etc. They used the extra frame material to box the frame over the welded seams! Check it out, John
Id recommend the Z cut. When welding the fishplate leave the corners open about 3/8" or so. This will eliminate stress risers. No need to box when doing it this way. Straight vertical cuts at least in the effie frame are not recommended.
Maybe if this shortening idea catches on you can make a nation wide trip picking up all of the cut offs and meet a bunch of great guys while doing it and get a wide variety of additional modification ideas for your truck.
I spent 40-years working in sales in the used heavy truck industry. Shortening and lengthning of truck frames is a common, everyday procedure. If you live in an area that has a heavy truck chassis shop it will be a common procedure to them.
As far as frame material goes, don't bother to mess around with old pieces of stock frame. Any good boiler shop or steel fabricatin shop can make you a piece of new material exactly the length, guage and shape including the corner radius that you need. as long as it's a straight piece. Usually a simple liner, overlapping about 8-inches in each direction and stitch welded in is all you need. Especialy for a pickup. The steel fabrication shop can also make these liner pieces and they will fit like a glove inside the outer piece. Not usually very expensive either!