brake help
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4wd Low
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
brake help
Hi all,
2001 f350 4x4, 168,000 miles. Just replaced rear brakes, including calipers as the sliders were frozen solid. Bled the brakes, no problem, got good clean flow coming out of both rear calipers. But I can't build any pressure up as the brake peddle goes to the floor. I am assuming the master cylinder went out, but wanted to make sure it is not some ABS valve tripping me up. No leaks or other obvious problems. Original master cylinder.
Thanks for any help.
2001 f350 4x4, 168,000 miles. Just replaced rear brakes, including calipers as the sliders were frozen solid. Bled the brakes, no problem, got good clean flow coming out of both rear calipers. But I can't build any pressure up as the brake peddle goes to the floor. I am assuming the master cylinder went out, but wanted to make sure it is not some ABS valve tripping me up. No leaks or other obvious problems. Original master cylinder.
Thanks for any help.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 500
Likes: 38
From: Pacific Northwest
When you bleed the brakes did you get brake pedal pressure?
If it did go, their cheap.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/search..._form-savedveh
Inspect yours really really closely for a leak, if its really bad your brake fluid MIGHT be dirty from seals that have deteriorated and fallen apart.
Generally speaking the cylinder usually fails before the booster.
Before I did that though I would keep bleeding. Just replaced both my front calipers after I had one seize on me. I went to walmart and bought the larger bottles of brake fluid. Its super cheap like 7ish bucks? Then the easiest method is to go and buy one of the large water jugs with the clear tap handle on the top. Cut or drill a hole in the cap & run your bleeding line into the bottle & hang the bottle from the caliper with the tap handle. Make sure to pump firmly 3-4 times. Then close your speed bleeding valce & pump until you have firm pressure on the brake pedal. If you still have problems you can try gently tapping the caliper to try and knock out air bubbles in the caliper. {Works best with 2 people} 1 person pumping while one gently taps.
If it did go, their cheap.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/search..._form-savedveh
Inspect yours really really closely for a leak, if its really bad your brake fluid MIGHT be dirty from seals that have deteriorated and fallen apart.
Generally speaking the cylinder usually fails before the booster.
Before I did that though I would keep bleeding. Just replaced both my front calipers after I had one seize on me. I went to walmart and bought the larger bottles of brake fluid. Its super cheap like 7ish bucks? Then the easiest method is to go and buy one of the large water jugs with the clear tap handle on the top. Cut or drill a hole in the cap & run your bleeding line into the bottle & hang the bottle from the caliper with the tap handle. Make sure to pump firmly 3-4 times. Then close your speed bleeding valce & pump until you have firm pressure on the brake pedal. If you still have problems you can try gently tapping the caliper to try and knock out air bubbles in the caliper. {Works best with 2 people} 1 person pumping while one gently taps.
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Thanks for the reply. No pressure when bleeding, but again I get good flow out of the rear caliper bleed valves. When valves are closed, you can push the pedal to the floor and still be able to spin the rear rotors, so again I assume its the master, but am concerned some ABS valve may be causing the issue as the brakes functioned before I replaced rears. Coincidence, ya sure, but just want to know if anyone has had this issue as I have not bled brakes in many years.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 330
Likes: 2
You could still have more air in the system. On the Superduty trucks, bleed the brakes in this order; RR, LR, RF, LF. It is also best to use some clear tubing placed over the bleeder screw. Place the other end of a tube into a container. Crack open the bleeder screw and pump the brake pedal slowly at least 10 times, or more if you still see air bubbles in the clear tubing. Tighten the bleeder and move to the next brake in the order. I have had to run as much as 1 quart brake fluid through the system to get all the air out. This is also a good way to replace that dirty fluid with fresh fluid.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,142
Likes: 24
You easily CAN have air in the ABS system that will need a scan tool able to do a "service bleed" to get it out. Before I had an IDS to do it with I made sure all bleeders were free and had my local dealer bleed them, cost me $75.00.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 500
Likes: 38
From: Pacific Northwest
Really? Not saying its not a thing but what the heck does the scan tool do? Open a selonid valve somewhere that has air trapped behind it or something?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,875
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Your gonna have to go old skool and you'll need a "volunteer" as well. Gonna have to go around to each wheel while somebody pumps up the brakes then holds the pedal while you loosen the bleeder and when their foot hits the bottom they will wait until you tighten the bleeder and give the OK to let up and do it again.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
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Your gonna have to go old skool and you'll need a "volunteer" as well. Gonna have to go around to each wheel while somebody pumps up the brakes then holds the pedal while you loosen the bleeder and when their foot hits the bottom they will wait until you tighten the bleeder and give the OK to let up and do it again.
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dont mean to question your work but the bleeders are pointed up? upside down will never bleed air cause they dump fluid when open. if yes then fill res pump brake then loosen bleeder and should gravity bleed. being a one man shop i do this regulary. if still no pedal next step to test master cylinder (mc) would be to unscrew lines and install plugs (they give u plastic ones w/ most mcs) if pumps up not mc. have only seen one dump valve stick on abs and it was the old gear operated modulator on generous motors
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 330
Likes: 2
dont mean to question your work but the bleeders are pointed up? upside down will never bleed air cause they dump fluid when open. if yes then fill res pump brake then loosen bleeder and should gravity bleed. being a one man shop i do this regulary. if still no pedal next step to test master cylinder (mc) would be to unscrew lines and install plugs (they give u plastic ones w/ most mcs) if pumps up not mc. have only seen one dump valve stick on abs and it was the old gear operated modulator on generous motors
The video creator takes a few extra steps that I don't do, and I push the pedal all the way as far as it will go (video says just a couple inches). You should give it a try. It really works good.
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