Check out the how to buy a used powerstoke at powerstokehelp.com

some people say the guy is crazy I think he may be a little but I bet they do good work.

the videos will teach you a good basic rundown

How much is this truck going to cost to Get up to speed of your ownership fresh fluids (oil, transmission, front and rear diff, power steering, brake, coolant test/possible change) with other work on top. It's possible to be in over 12 plus your time on this truck but you can spell Manual without the word Man lol. How's the market in your area near and far look in the 10-14 price range. Of course those can/will cost to maintain and hopefully not have a tuner. I'm not saying that's a deal breaker but ya just have to be careful. Bought my truck tuned no medium or major engine problems over 100k plus miles programmed. Of course it has a new transmission installed.


what is this truck exactly crew cab, single, xl, xlt lets see some pics

 

I was talking more to the guy and this truck was just his weekend cruiser. It has some rust under the drivers door but the frame and underbody look fairly clean. He changed the oil and filter every 3-4k. He also said that he changed the fuel filter whenever he changed the oil!

He bought a new truck and didnt drive this one for a month. He started it once a week but didnt actually take it out. When he drove it for the first time after it resting (probably 3-4 days ago) the service light came on for codes:
P0541-Intake air heater
P0107-MAP/Barometer
P0475-Exhaust pressure control valve

These all seem like smaller problems that I could fix myself once fully diagnosed. Also, when I test drove the truck is was super solid and drove amazingly. No misfiring or anything that seemed incorrect. Honestly without the codes coming on and scaring the guy I dont think he would have budged on his price of 9k so in some sense Im super thankful for the codes. lol

I appreciate everyone taking the time to share their advice and opinions. I am going tomorrow to cold start it and take it to a mechanic. Hes just leaving the keys in his truck and told me I could come take it out.... I'm hoping all looks well because it would work perfect for me and would be an incredible price.

 

Gotta post the warnings about this guy. Some of his advice is very good. Some of it is nonsense. Be careful about what you believe.

That being said, the "how to buy a powerstroke" is one of his better videos.

 

California truck? I have an e99 and it did not come with this.
MAP sensor can be pricey.
This thing is located under the turbo, and can be a PITA to remove and repair/replace. Some folks delete it entirely, but this can affect cold weather warm-up times, and it has a function for extended idling to minimize smoke, or some such thing.

You might want to remove the air intake duct leading to the turbo inlet and look for wear on the turbo blades. You may see traces of oil there, but that would be due to the crankcase vent which vents into that intake hose. Shouldn't be excessive though.

And Riffraf diesel is one of the recommended vendors used by many on this forum. Good luck.

 

Yes he's a bit wild please don't drill your fuel feed bolts lol

P0541-Intake air heater- top of the Motor google a pic could be delteted used below around 45 heats and cold engine temp. I'm deleting mine for a boost gauge never gets cold where I'm at. This is also not installed on 7.3F-650 and F-750 set ups. Some also say it increases the turbo efficient but idk if that's the case on a fairly stock engine.
P0107-MAP/Barometer-could be pricey hopefully your mechanic has more info
P0475-Exhaust pressure control valve-Could also be deleted or have an issue. Mine was leaking all over rebuild kit was almost 200 new pedestal w ebcv plenty more. Bought the Garett delete pedestal 87 bucks with Garrett turbo install kit turbo deffinetly spins a little quicker while deleting a part gaurenteed to leak again down the line.

 

When I looked it up the barometer part seemed to be around $170. All of the codes haven't noticeable been affecting driving but I just want to make sure it was nothing too serious. I have no problem trying to fix things, especially when the weather gets a little warmer. Like I said before I just want to make sure its not a sign of a serious issue. Also Im not sure where the truck is from but its been in Illinois most of its life.

 

Sensors and what not are more expensive for a diesel, but you cannot get the same kind of performance out of a gasser that you can out of a diesel.

Your "diesel mechanic" friend is dead wrong about the price of injectors, if the truck needs them. The general rule of thumb is about 250K miles the injectors should be monitored closely for failing parts. Of course, there are guys on here with twice that mileage on stock injectors. I have 242K miles on mine now and it runs great with 18.5 MPG's unloaded.

If the truck needs minor things to bring it back up to a daily driver, then that seems to be a good deal. As mentioned earlier, the tuner can be a problem and the lift kit, well that is for show and can provide some insight on how the truck was treated.

I paid $9200 for the truck in my signature with 224K miles on it. I have since put a total of ~$15,000 into it, but it is rock solid and I would not hesitate to tow my trailer cross country. As a matter of fact, we did just that in the summer of 2015 and towed our RV from GA to Seattle and back.

There is a lot of pride in owning one of these trucks. If you are even an amateur shade tree mechanic, you can do 90% of the work on this truck yourself. Any problem you have or will have, someone else has already figured it out and has posted pictures with a how to fix it write up.

Go with your gut, but to me it seems like a decent deal on your side of the table.

EDIT: One more thing, DO NOT buy sensors or parts from the chain stores if you can help it. Go to places like diesel o-rings, RiffRaff, Diesel Site, etc for genuine OEM parts. The 7.3 is a picky ******* when it comes to sensors, but the best part is they don't go out but every quarter million miles or so.

 

If you are buying a 2000 model year, then you don't need to shop for a separate barometric pressure sensor, because that specific sensor was moved to the PCM in model year 1999.5 (1999 models built after March 1999).

The 2000 still has a separate Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor, but the MAP sensor isn't the same as the BARO sensor. If your diagnostics truly and accurately points to a failed BARO sensor, then you might want to be pricing rebuilt PCMs, although it is doubtful you will have to go that far at the outset to resolve P0107, given that there are aftermarket things to clear out first.

 

That's not a bad price at all must have been thinking of another part. A fualty map and the computer will compensate reduce power etc. to answer your question none of the codes are a big deal. Escpeically since you are ready and willing to resolve them.

 

How did you read your codes?


Clear them and see if they come back.


Don't go out and buy something if not needed.
Hic-ups do happen.

 

This forum will get you through thick and thin! Teach you along the way, and connect you with Righteous helper friends along your way.
Many here KNOW. They've been down the path.