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93 Cargo van 5.8, 292k mornings starts runs great. Stop at the Stop n go for goodies, get back in starts runs great til you have to stop, then it either dies or will not go, if you barley put you foot on gas it will creep along as long as the grade is flat, hill forget it, lift off the pedal stalls, but will usually start right back up, some times no change other times runs great for a little while then no poer again. If you turn the key on the Fuel Pumps runs continuously, some times it stops n starts but mostly just runs. New filter n seafoam with higher grade fuel- no diff. Any ideas?
How far do you drive to the first stop?? Does the engine get up to operating temperature?? Like a good 2-3 miles, 5-10 minutes running, or do you shoot down the street 1/4 mile and stop for that first coffee??
From what you write, it almost sounds like a problem with the TPS.
Been there, solved that.......Do the test or replace that first.
Also, with the age and mileage, go thru the check ALL the vacuum lines, the small ones, 6 feet of 5/32" vacuum hose will replace all the old dry-rotted, cracked rubber lines. Check the hard plastic lines for cracks. A small cracked vacuum line can cause running issue that you write about.
It is about 6 miles to first stop. So yes it is up to temp. I might need to say, just for info, I replaced the Alt about 300 miles ago or last week. This problem did not occur for several days after that.
So you are telling me that the TPS controls the fuel pump?
He said: " If you turn the key on the Fuel Pumps runs continuously"
I had a 91 Lincoln that did that and was told the ECM was bad. I never replaced it though because it seemed to run fine. But the ECM does control the fuel pump and it is supposed to shut off with the key on and the engine is not running.
Well I knew it could not be controlled by something that was not on with just key "on", so past results with other vehicles and a general I don't know on the internet, I just leaped over all the little stuff and went to the top. The van now runs much better than It ever has before and an annoying miss, that everyone said was a bad injector is gone, pick up and acceleration are much improved.
Yea, you did jump a lot of testing to get to the ECU.
Most over look this, or at least pull the ECU, open it, and see if the capacitors are leaking that green stuff. Results in replacing the ECU with a re-man unit.
And, no, I never said that the TPS controls the fuel pump, from what you wrote about the stalling at stop/idle, that's the first sensor to test.
Well almost every thing is great. That annoying check engine light. with the same egr code returned today, I have replaced every thing to do with the egr system, cleaned the pipe, checked and then replaced all vacume lines, replaced egr valve, replaced switch, still there, what kind of lamp do they use in that damn socket, they NEVER seem to burn out...lol been that way for 10 years so I guess It will live. I'm tired of screwing with it, black tape is going to fix it.
If you have, or can get a hold of an OBD I scanner, you can clear the stored codes, after you replaced the EGR and related items.
If not, the dash comes out with a couple screws.........the bulbs are held in little plastic sockets that are twist-turned on the panel........of course, black electrical tape is easier over the light on the face of the dash........
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