Might need to replace Engine?
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Elder User
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From: Independence
Might need to replace Engine?
Hello all out there in ford truck land! Got a question, how big of a PITA , is it to replace a 4.6L engine? I'm sure there is already threads on this. I have a 4.6 VIN W! It's in a 97 f150 4x4 Lariat! The Right side is leaking oil, not sure if it's the head or valve cover gasket. The leak is on the back side of the motor! I don't have a lift to raise the cab either nor do I have access to one either! Also will a regular cherry picker work! And does the engine have to be the same VIN W or no? Thanks for any advice on this matter! It is greatly appreciated!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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Check the rear of the head on that side.
Oil comes up to the valve train very near the outer edge.
The head gasket is the only seal.
If the motor is still good otherwise, change the head gasket.
A lot less hassle.
Good luck.
Oil comes up to the valve train very near the outer edge.
The head gasket is the only seal.
If the motor is still good otherwise, change the head gasket.
A lot less hassle.
Good luck.
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Elder User
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From: Independence
it seems to be ok but should I have the heads machined also or just replace the gasket? Thanks Bluegrass 7 And I don't have a manual on this truck but I guess I could get one for sure but I don't know what the valve clearances are or anything? And should I do both or just the one side? Thanks again Bluegrass
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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There is no valve clearance to be addressed.
The valve train is hydraulic and has some room for self adjustment.
I would not worry about the head or block surface unless it is found to be out of tolerance.
New gasket should take care of the seal.
The main thing is to get new head bolts and torque to spec.in the proper sequence.
Then make sure the cam is timed correctly. You may need a cam clamp to hold the cam in position because it's under valve spring tension that can cause it to move.
When you begin the job and after the valve cover is removed, rotate the motor to locate the chain marks vs the cam gear before taking anything apart..
Then do not move the engine again or you lose your reference and have to start over getting the crank to the correct phasing.
Review the job from a service manual before you begin so your not trying to learn from mistakes.
This is not a push rod engine so needs to be done right the first time around.
Good luck.
The valve train is hydraulic and has some room for self adjustment.
I would not worry about the head or block surface unless it is found to be out of tolerance.
New gasket should take care of the seal.
The main thing is to get new head bolts and torque to spec.in the proper sequence.
Then make sure the cam is timed correctly. You may need a cam clamp to hold the cam in position because it's under valve spring tension that can cause it to move.
When you begin the job and after the valve cover is removed, rotate the motor to locate the chain marks vs the cam gear before taking anything apart..
Then do not move the engine again or you lose your reference and have to start over getting the crank to the correct phasing.
Review the job from a service manual before you begin so your not trying to learn from mistakes.
This is not a push rod engine so needs to be done right the first time around.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 505
Likes: 0
From: Independence
There is no valve clearance to be addressed.
The valve train is hydraulic and has some room for self adjustment.
I would not worry about the head or block surface unless it is found to be out of tolerance.
New gasket should take care of the seal.
The main thing is to get new head bolts and torque to spec.in the proper sequence.
Then make sure the cam is timed correctly. You may need a cam clamp to hold the cam in position because it's under valve spring tension that can cause it to move.
When you begin the job and after the valve cover is removed, rotate the motor to locate the chain marks vs the cam gear before taking anything apart..
Then do not move the engine again or you lose your reference and have to start over getting the crank to the correct phasing.
Review the job from a service manual before you begin so your not trying to learn from mistakes.
This is not a push rod engine so needs to be done right the first time around.
Good luck.
The valve train is hydraulic and has some room for self adjustment.
I would not worry about the head or block surface unless it is found to be out of tolerance.
New gasket should take care of the seal.
The main thing is to get new head bolts and torque to spec.in the proper sequence.
Then make sure the cam is timed correctly. You may need a cam clamp to hold the cam in position because it's under valve spring tension that can cause it to move.
When you begin the job and after the valve cover is removed, rotate the motor to locate the chain marks vs the cam gear before taking anything apart..
Then do not move the engine again or you lose your reference and have to start over getting the crank to the correct phasing.
Review the job from a service manual before you begin so your not trying to learn from mistakes.
This is not a push rod engine so needs to be done right the first time around.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Independence
Update
thanks again my friend for the info I'm going to have a leakdown test done on it also to make sure it may not be a intake leak or a cracked intake? I'm just assuming it's a head gasket at this point, which I know isn't good to do,.for sure! But I think I would rather do an intake gasket over any of the other stuff? The man I spoke with said they do a lot of engine work there, and should be able to pinpoint where the leak is coming from? He also said that there is a oil jacket back under the intake there where the oil could be leaking from also. I would rather try to find the leak, instead of guessing before I proceed? Thanks again Bluegrass for your help and advice!!
M
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Elder User
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From: Independence
Will a Windsor engine fit in my 97 vin w?
Hello again all in my 97 f150 4x4 Lariat with a 4.6 VIN W will a Windsor motor around the same year fit? I have a chance to get one for $350, can this basically just drop in or not at all or should I make sure I get a romeo engine? I here to many different stories? I just don't want to end up with a motor I can't use any help would be great and very appreciated once again thanks all!!
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