Replacing Valve Covers
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New User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fortuna, California
Replacing Valve Covers
Hi! I was fortunate to finally locate and purchase a set of NOS early Thunderbird polished aluminum valve covers in grand condition. Since my motor & power steering unit are from a 1956 Thunderbird without the dress-up kit, I found it only appropriate to add.
Since I have never replaced valve covers, I have a couple of questions. I have the new gaskets and the hard rubber gromments for the top of the valve covers.
I am planning on cleaning the surface of the area on the engine which receives the new gasket, applying an 1/8 inch bead of black hi-temp silicone gasket maker on the center of the new gasket which fits against the valve cover.
Should I also applying a dap of the silcone gasket maker to the backside of the gromments as well? Do I torque the valve cover gaskets -- pounds? I was told the main reason for leaks, seeps is over tightening. Did I miss anything?
Thanks....Dave
Since I have never replaced valve covers, I have a couple of questions. I have the new gaskets and the hard rubber gromments for the top of the valve covers.
I am planning on cleaning the surface of the area on the engine which receives the new gasket, applying an 1/8 inch bead of black hi-temp silicone gasket maker on the center of the new gasket which fits against the valve cover.
Should I also applying a dap of the silcone gasket maker to the backside of the gromments as well? Do I torque the valve cover gaskets -- pounds? I was told the main reason for leaks, seeps is over tightening. Did I miss anything?
Thanks....Dave
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Dave -
You have the plan except DO NOT put silicone between the gasket and the head. You'll just make a big mess the next time you remove it. You won't need silicone on the rubber grommets, either.
As to torque, a rule I was taught, was to use a ratchet and grip it around the head, rather than on the handle. Hand tighten (without the full leverage). I'm not sure I explained that well, but the method has always worked. It was easier to understand when he showed me.
You have the plan except DO NOT put silicone between the gasket and the head. You'll just make a big mess the next time you remove it. You won't need silicone on the rubber grommets, either.
As to torque, a rule I was taught, was to use a ratchet and grip it around the head, rather than on the handle. Hand tighten (without the full leverage). I'm not sure I explained that well, but the method has always worked. It was easier to understand when he showed me.
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fortuna, California
Originally Posted by Randy Jack
Dave -
You have the plan except DO NOT put silicone between the gasket and the head. You'll just make a big mess the next time you remove it. You won't need silicone on the rubber grommets, either.
As to torque, a rule I was taught, was to use a ratchet and grip it around the head, rather than on the handle. Hand tighten (without the full leverage). I'm not sure I explained that well, but the method has always worked. It was easier to understand when he showed me.
You have the plan except DO NOT put silicone between the gasket and the head. You'll just make a big mess the next time you remove it. You won't need silicone on the rubber grommets, either.
As to torque, a rule I was taught, was to use a ratchet and grip it around the head, rather than on the handle. Hand tighten (without the full leverage). I'm not sure I explained that well, but the method has always worked. It was easier to understand when he showed me.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
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From: Valley Center, CA
Rather than silicone, I like the spray-copper sealer. It is less messy and does a very good job of sealing. As for tightness, the aluminum covers seal much better than the stamped steel. Randy is right, just hand tighten and drive. If they leak any oil, then try tightening a little more. 
Good luck, Jag
Good luck, Jag
