Head gasket
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Head gasket
I need help. I have a 2001 Screw 4x4 that had a bad valve on the passenger side. I got the head rebuilt and put it all back together. Now it has a pretty bad oil leak at the rear of the engine. I thought it was the valve cover gasket but when I took it off the gasket was right where it's supposed to be. I pulled the starter and it seems to be leaking out of the new head gasket. What could I have done wrong? The thing runs perfect now but it's dripping oil like crazy so I had to have done something wrong. I used an OEM head gasket from the dealer and torqued the new head bolts to 30 ft-lbs and then went another 90 turn twice just like the book said. I'm out of ideas 
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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On the rear of the head to block seal surface is a small hole that is head gasket sealed to the block's main oil galley supply.
This is the oil supply to the valve train.
The same thing on the other head, at the front, on the driver side.
You have some kind of sealing issue at that point.
The oil is under at least 70 psi when the engine rpm is up so the seal sees this amount of pressure.
Sorry but you will have to remove the head to effect a repair and use another new head gasket making sure it's the rignt one for the engine.
Compair to the old one if you still have it.
The gaskets are specific to each side.
Good luck.
This is the oil supply to the valve train.
The same thing on the other head, at the front, on the driver side.
You have some kind of sealing issue at that point.
The oil is under at least 70 psi when the engine rpm is up so the seal sees this amount of pressure.
Sorry but you will have to remove the head to effect a repair and use another new head gasket making sure it's the rignt one for the engine.
Compair to the old one if you still have it.
The gaskets are specific to each side.
Good luck.
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Thanks for the reply. I bought the head gasket from the local Ford Dealer for the right side so I think it's the correct one. I do not have the old one. I already cleaned up the garage and trashed it. I can't imagine they would've sold me the wrong one. Would the left side have the sealing surface at the front of the engine for the oil supply? If the left side was leaking I wouldn't even know because it would be draining into the timing cover, correct? I'm really dreading taking the thing apart again and having it not be sealed up a second time. It's quite a chore to tear everything apart in order to get the head off. Is there a way to take the head off without removing both timing chains or am I doing it the hard way? I was really surprised at how easy it went back together. The timing chains scared me but that was easy. I never even thought about this oil leak as being my biggest problem. I was more worried about getting it timed right and getting all the vacuum hoses and electrical hooked back up right.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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You done the job once so see what has to be done.
There is no other way unless you find a way to get a head off without taking the chain off that no one else can do.
This is just first timers bad luck.
You have to do so turn the page and go on.
No other choice.
Good luck.
There is no other way unless you find a way to get a head off without taking the chain off that no one else can do.
This is just first timers bad luck.
You have to do so turn the page and go on.
No other choice.
Good luck.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
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From: Minnesota
I got a head gasket on wrong once on a Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.0 DOHC. I even called the place I bought it at because I could turn it end for end and it looked the same....something like that. Well....guess what ...same as you the oil was pouring out the rear of the head right in the corner. That was a do-over but at least all the bolts came loose OK....Good Luck....if you can let it sit a week your mood tends to soften to the idea of ripping it all back apart.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,716
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Too late for you this time, but I learned many decades ago not to throw everything out right away, but to hang onto the old parts for a bit till the new repair was proved out. That way the old parts were available for reference, or whatever.
It's a real pain to have a do-over. But the second time will be faster as you remember how to get at everything, what wrench/extension/socket type to use where, what to unplug, on and on. No fun for sure, but it will be faster... just work as carefully!
It's a real pain to have a do-over. But the second time will be faster as you remember how to get at everything, what wrench/extension/socket type to use where, what to unplug, on and on. No fun for sure, but it will be faster... just work as carefully!
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Thanks guys. I really appreciate all the advice and suggestions. I'm really hoping that when I get it taken apart something will be obviously wrong. That's what I'm worrried about now, getting it tore apart again and having no idea what I did wrong so I won't know how to correct my mistake.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
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From: Minnesota
When you pull the head take a picture of the head gasket as it is before you peel it off. Hopefully you just got a corner crimped or folded and it will stick out for you. Let us know, and best of luck.....been there myself.
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I will let you know what I find out when I get it tore apart again. I am driving my car for now. Took your advice and am letting the truck sit while I get over the fact that I have to do it again. At least this time all I need is a new head gasket and new head bolts. Everything else was replaced the first time I took it apart. What's everyone's opinion on the head bolts being one time use only? I have been reading about it and now I read that they can be used twice...?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
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From: Minnesota
Man....I would think they get stretched pretty good on that last 90*. What's a 10 pack of like Fel-Pro bolts cost...maybe $35-40 bucks? I put a new head gasket in a old Honda Motorcycle I was restoring once. It was DOHC and a SOB to get both cams in, chains hooked up...timed...you get the picture. Re-used the old bolts cause new were so $$$. Had it all set and went to set the lifters and here sitting in a valley was the top of one the bolts...%^$#@$%^%..I didn't snap it so all i could assume is that it was a snitch away from breaking and as it sat there it finally snapped. That was a winter project, so not that big a deal...so buy the new bolts.
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I was looking at head gaskets and from what I can tell there is almost no way to put that particular gasket on upside down. It is not symmetrical. Just for the heck of it I pulled the valve cover off again and tightened the two rear bolts the same amount. About 45 degrees. Put it all back together and the leak has slowed way down to less than half of what it was. It was almost a constant drip. Now it drips once every 5 seconds. Is it possible that I didn't torque it correctly?
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Well i finally got around to taking the darn thing apart again. It seems that the head gasket the dealer sold me was different than the one I needed. The one I just put on today had a triangle shaped hole where the oil supply runs through the block and up into the head. The one the dealer sold me the first time had a small round hole that didn't completely seal around the head and block mating surface. I think it is now fixed. It doesn't leak a drop of oil now. I read somewhere that there was an improved design head gasket out there so maybe I was just unlucky and got the crappy old design the first time around. Anyway, thanks for all the advice. This site is a very valuable tool for the shade tree mechanic for someone like me.