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Okay oh Wizards of the Blue Oval I did some searching on this site and I found enough info to know I need new TR ends. The numbers I found on my I-beam (L side) = D2TA-9-BB (R side) =D2TA-8-BB don't help me in picking the ends out of the Rock Auto catalog. Looking at my parts I would say they look most like the "Quick turn" items in the catalog. Any where else I can find info to help? Thanks guys, Todd.
Forgot to mention. It's an F250 with dual piston calipers.
I would say you're best best is to buy a set of Moog brand tie rods/steering link for your model and series truck.
Moog manufactures quality components. I have a '69 F100 but, I bought Moog tie rods/steering linkage when I switched my truck from front drums to a disc brake/front suspension from a '77 F100. I'm very pleased with these components.
I would say you're best best is to buy a set of Moog brand tie rods/steering link for your model and series truck.
Moog manufactures quality components. I have a '69 F100 but, I bought Moog tie rods/steering linkage when I switched my truck from front drums to a disc brake/front suspension from a '77 F100. I'm very pleased with these components.
....spiffy looking beams you have there.
Thanks. Wouldn't you know, I find out I need new Tie Rods AFTER I paint them LOL.
I would say you're best best is to buy a set of Moog brand tie rods/steering link for your model and series truck.
Moog manufactures quality components. I have a '69 F100 but, I bought Moog tie rods/steering linkage when I switched my truck from front drums to a disc brake/front suspension from a '77 F100. I'm very pleased with these components.
....spiffy looking beams you have there.
I bought Moog tie rods through Summit Racing and the left tie rod was too long.. I had to excise a lil bit to dial in the alignment. Pic below...
Dunno if it was because of using 78 disc spindles on my 70 that had drums. Perhaps the relative position of the steering arm holes were not the same? Anyhoot, be prepared to modify if needed!! Oh, the tie rods should be threaded into the adjusting sleeves about the same distance (or number of turns).
I bought Moog tie rods through Summit Racing and the left tie rod was too long.. I had to excise a lil bit to dial in the alignment. Pic below...
Dunno if it was because of using 78 disc spindles on my 70 that had drums. Perhaps the relative position of the steering arm holes were not the same? Anyhoot, be prepared to modify if needed!! Oh, the tie rods should be threaded into the adjusting sleeves about the same distance (or number of turns).
Yeah, before CSRP came out with the revised Granada disc brake spindles in 2004, with the correct '65/'66 Mustang steering arm angles cast into them, I had installed several Ford produced Granada (wrecking yard) spindles on some '65/'66 Mustangs, where I had to cut some of the threaded ends off the inner and outer tie rods so the wheels would point straight ahead, instead of being pigeon-toed.
Okay oh Wizards of the Blue Oval I did some searching on this site and I found enough info to know I need new TR ends. The numbers I found on my I-beam (L side) = D2TA-9-BB (R side) =D2TA-8-BB don't help me in picking the ends out of the Rock Auto catalog. Looking at my parts I would say they look most like the "Quick turn" items in the catalog. Any where else I can find info to help? Thanks guys, Todd.
Forgot to mention. It's an 1972 F250 with dual piston calipers.
D2TZ-3304-A .. Draglink-Studs face in opposite directions / F250: Use with 12" x 2 1/2" rear brakes.
1971 F250 2WD & F350 from serial number M00,001 / 1972/74 F250 2WD & F350 / 1975/79 F250 2WD Regular/Super/Crew Cab with dual piston caliper disc brakes.
1975/78 F350 / 1979 F350 2WD
Note: 1971/72 F250 2WD's with drum front brakes & 12 1/8" x 2" rear brakes; 1973/79 F250 2WD's with single piston caliper disc brakes: Draglink has studs that face in the same direction.
Note: F250 2WD's with I-Beams stamped D2TA-8-BB & D2TA-9-BB have a 7,500 or 8,100 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, 12" x 2 1/2" rear brakes.
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