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Had the same experience you're having with the leaking master cylinder cap on my 77 F-150. I also purchased a new boot and it still leaked even with cleaning all the fluid off the rim and rubber boot. Then read in a previous thread someone else had the same problem and they resorted to using a thin piece of plastic underneath the spring clamps center "V" portion. I did that and mine hasn't leaked since performing this last July 2016. The thin piece of plastic I used was from automotive wire loom that I mashed together that seemed to be the perfect thickness needed to stop the leaking lid.
Within the previous post indicated manufactures / re-manufactures today have less quality control in their process compared to ~ 40 years ago and therefore have untrue (un-even) master cylinder opening surfaces. Hope this simple fix also works in your predicament.
Me too. I think sealing the lid to the master is a lost art. On mine, if I wiggle the lid around to seat it then pull the wire bale over it seals better (or leaks less).
My truck ('69 F100 SWB Ranger) originally came with 4-wheel manual drums. I went through the entire brake system just a few days after I bought the truck in April, 2011. Among replacing all the hydraulic components, I installed a brand new cast iron MC. Even after painting the MC, it didn't take very long for it to start rusting and looking ugly. --in early 2012, I installed a '75 F350 dual diaphragm brake booster.
In October, 2014, I pitched the drum brake front suspension and installed a disc brake front suspension from a '77 F100. I removed the 1.00" bore cast iron MC and installed a 'modern' 1-1/16" bore MC for a '95 Ford Explorer.
The Explorer MC weighs right at 1/4th of what the cast iron MC weighed, it doesn't rust inside or out, doesn't require the cap to be taken off to see how much fluid is inside the reservoir --taking the cap off introduces dirt, rust debris and air into the fluid inside the MC as well as additional moisture. The cap on this 'modern' MC never lets the brake fluid puke out of the reservoir.
Same setup I installed on a friend's '72 F100 Sport Custom back in late September, 2016.
'Modern' 1.00" bore diameter versions of this basic MC are also available from the '90-'94 Ford Ranger pickups.
Do you happen to have the list of parts (supplier too) you got for this setup? I likely need to replace mine ('74 F350). I like what you have done - when looking at rockauto though, there are a bunch of options for the MC (cruise control, proportioning, etc.). Also, was the booster made for the truck or the MC?
Thank you.
Gudor
Originally Posted by ultraranger
Same setup I installed on a friend's '72 F100 Sport Custom back in late September, 2016.
Bleed the brakes some more - I'd bet there's still a tiny air bubble in it somewhere making it pressure tank and weep a little fluid out the lid, had it happen before. I have a pressure bleeder now, and I've had instances where you can bleed 'em too fast and not get the air out totally.
Do you happen to have the list of parts (supplier too) you got for this setup? I likely need to replace mine ('74 F350). I like what you have done - when looking at rockauto though, there are a bunch of options for the MC (cruise control, proportioning, etc.). Also, was the booster made for the truck or the MC?
Thank you.
Gudor
My dual diaphragm booster/brackets/plastic dust boot came from a '75 F350. I traded the wrecking yard booster in for a newly rebuilt one from O'Reilly's, part number 54-73112.
My 1-1/16" bore '95 Explorer MC was purchased new through NAPA (without proportioning valve and without cruise control) under part number M3246.
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