bead grinding
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,094
Likes: 379
From: Southern California
IMHO & as you know, the key is to keep the metal as cool as possible to avoid warping.....I personally don't think is really makes all that much of a different if you use a grinding wheel or disc sander, etc. until you get down to where you are finishing....then switch to a sanding wheel/disc....
Just work the bead lightly...you will be fine!
Just work the bead lightly...you will be fine!
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 4
From: Rogue River, Oregon
I like to stay away from the thicker, "flapper" discs for this because they flex and conform to the weld bead and will grind the parent material before you know it. I simple trick I use is to buy a can of aerosol machinists dye, spray the area, then grind it. That'll show you exactly when and where you hit the parent material. The stuff is cheap, dries very fast and wipes off easily with a little alcohol or acetone.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,828
Likes: 4,094
From: Angier, NC
I use a grinding stone disc on a 4-1/2" grinder to knock it down low, moving all over to keep heat down.
Then I switch to a flapper disc to take it down to flush, again moving to keep heat down.
Been working for me so far.
Dave ----
Then I switch to a flapper disc to take it down to flush, again moving to keep heat down.
Been working for me so far.
Dave ----
More Turbo
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 642
Likes: 12
The best tool I've found for making weld beads disappear is a dremel with #420 cut-off wheel. It's lightweight, easily maneuvered and with a flex expension, can get into almost ANY crevice imaginable. The downside is that it's small, not exactly powerful and only suitable for smaller areas. But you do get an absolutely deadly degree of control with it.
I once had to grind down some 3/8" stainless steel carriage bolts to re-thread as M8x1.25. 3/8" ones were 40 cents each and available anywhere, while M8 stainless were $7 each and only at Fastenal.
Popped them in a drill to spin them line a lathe and attacked them with the dremel. Got them within 0.1mm (0.004 in) and did it all by hand and a HF digital caliper. They're now in the new Mega fuse block on my Expedition.
I once had to grind down some 3/8" stainless steel carriage bolts to re-thread as M8x1.25. 3/8" ones were 40 cents each and available anywhere, while M8 stainless were $7 each and only at Fastenal.
Popped them in a drill to spin them line a lathe and attacked them with the dremel. Got them within 0.1mm (0.004 in) and did it all by hand and a HF digital caliper. They're now in the new Mega fuse block on my Expedition.
Super Moderator
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 208,480
Likes: 407
From: Omaha/Elkhorn, NE
I like to stay away from the thicker, "flapper" discs for this because they flex and conform to the weld bead and will grind the parent material before you know it. I simple trick I use is to buy a can of aerosol machinists dye, spray the area, then grind it. That'll show you exactly when and where you hit the parent material. The stuff is cheap, dries very fast and wipes off easily with a little alcohol or acetone.
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