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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 01:48 AM
  #31  
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First of all Ultra? How is it? Worth it for the reduced caloric intake?

Do you know why the battery positive cable between batteries is not where it should be? New radiator?

EGR doesn't look too bad compared to others I have seen. Just remember the EGR wetness can "boil off" if you get up to temp if it is coolant. All that oil you're seeing in the intake elbow could be a contributor to the wetness on the EGR versus coolant too.

That oil on the bottom could be from anywhere. How's the valley look? Dry? Could be from a leaky ICP, HPOP cover, rear main...or other things depending.

That dipstick is frightening. Looks like someone molded some putty at the end of a wire.

The engine bay being as "dirty" as it looks might be a good thing...or not. At least it appears no recent work has been done...like someone finding a major problem and attempting to fix and saying screw it, just get rid of it kind of thing. Know what I mean?

Anyway, what do the numbers show? I know you said EOT/ECT test tomorrow.

 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 09:08 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Yama4fitty
First of all Ultra? How is it? Worth it for the reduced caloric intake?

Do you know why the battery positive cable between batteries is not where it should be? New radiator?

EGR doesn't look too bad compared to others I have seen. Just remember the EGR wetness can "boil off" if you get up to temp if it is coolant. All that oil you're seeing in the intake elbow could be a contributor to the wetness on the EGR versus coolant too.

That oil on the bottom could be from anywhere. How's the valley look? Dry? Could be from a leaky ICP, HPOP cover, rear main...or other things depending.

That dipstick is frightening. Looks like someone molded some putty at the end of a wire.

The engine bay being as "dirty" as it looks might be a good thing...or not. At least it appears no recent work has been done...like someone finding a major problem and attempting to fix and saying screw it, just get rid of it kind of thing. Know what I mean?

Anyway, what do the numbers show? I know you said EOT/ECT test tomorrow.

The guy my buddy is buying this truck from is the one who installed the used engine. So that is probably why the positive cable is not in place properly. Everything in the front has been replaced as the truck was in a front end collision.

The valley of the engine is dry.

I am putting everything back and will take it for a drive soon.

I am concerned with the dipstick.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 09:46 AM
  #33  
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Wrong oil cap, won't filter oil properly. Hope he's getting a killer deal on the truck & I'd suggest having $4-5k in extra cash after purchase to do all the normal engine upgrades.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 11:32 AM
  #34  
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Post #27 Preston noted the oil cap issue.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 01:29 PM
  #35  
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Here are some the results:

COLD START

--White steam from tailpipe, seemed to be more than just condensation as the amount was more than normal. It is cold outside, 32*, but it was still an amount out the norm, went away after driving for 1 mile at 35-40mph. Concerned it may be the beginning of HG's showing failure. I waiting on my buddy to buy the parts to do the coolant pressure test. This could be the reason for the green coolant being in the system, somebody may have added it from a loss of coolant.

--FICM dropped to 34v, then went up and flutated between 45.5-48 warm. Will advise new batteries, new upgraded alternator, and FICM repair.

--
ICP was good, 760 +, upon start up.

--Key On Engine OFF: MAP and BARO were with in .1 of eachother, EBP
would not read.

DRIVING

--Thermostat needs replacing, would only get up to 155* cruising at 65mph. Went up to 162*, but only cause I was accelerating the truck rapidly multiple times.

--Because thermostat is bad, I could not get an accurate reading on delta's. 155* on Coolant / 163* on Engine Oil. Still drove for 40 minutes at 65mph though.

--VGT was operating normally, 63-66 at idle, 49-56 at cruising, and 14-25 at WOT.

--Turbo: Boost would not rise above 22 PSI. Also, two stages of turbo lag when taking off, makes me think that the vanes are sticking a little.

--Transmission stayed with in spec at 146*


Thanks for everyone taking part in this thread. I am hoping that this will help some new 6oh potential buyers what to look for and how.

-Preston
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 02:15 PM
  #36  
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Well here's the list of items I will be suggesting he gets done:

1. FICM Repair - $325
2. New Batteries - $190
3. New DC Power Alt - $310
4. New Thermostat - $25
5. Coolant Flush - $135
6. New degas tank - $32
7. New degas Stant cap - $5
8. OEM oil filter cap - $16
9. Fumoto valve F-111 - $22
10. Oil filter and oil change - $140
11. Fuel filters changed - $50
12. EGR valve gasket kit - $8
13. Transmission filters - $40
14. Turbo cleaning - $30
15. Air Filter - $49
16. Cabin air filter - $15
17. New Shocks all four - $100 total

TOTAL = $1,492

Also, I checked the EGR valve port, no wetness found after tipping the rear of the truck up.

AND the heater/ ac only goes to the defroster, so I am wondering if there is a vacuum leak.......
Thanks - Preston
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 07:20 PM
  #37  
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18. Michelob Ultra 12 pack (x2) - $29.98

For helpin' a brother out!

Is he going with this rig? How does the interior and body look? What is the trim level?
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 09:25 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Yama4fitty
18. Michelob Ultra 12 pack (x2) - $29.98

For helpin' a brother out!

Is he going with this rig? How does the interior and body look? What is the trim level?

Haha, love it!!! When your trying to lose weight and still want to drink, its the only beer to go with.

I also forgot the blue spring upgrade on the list...... 19. Blue Spring Upgrade $60.

So, I talked to him today and he doesn't mind any of the things that need to be repaired that I listed. I told him the #1,2, and 3 MUST be done ASAP!!!

I let him know that #8 through #18 (recently added thanks to Chris ) can wait for later. But #4 through #7 and now #19 must be done sooner than later.

I don't like how the front end still seems F***ed up from the front end collision, even after the guy took it to Les Schwab and got it all "fixed".

My buddy said he is okay with it. Mostly its just the clunking I hear going over bumps, and how the steering wheel is off.

Monday we are going to do the coolant pressure test for the Head Gaskets, and then he is going to buy a thermostat so I can test the coolant temp VS oil temp.

Then he will decide.

If the head gaskets are okay he will probably do the trade. We can do the oil cooler, just adds another $200.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 09:32 PM
  #39  
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Some Pics of the truck




It is a Lariat, but with manual A/C and Heat.

It has a sun roof. Just over 173K. 4X4.

It is just like my 2004 6oh I use to have as far as color.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 12:19 AM
  #40  
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Tested the coolant system pressure. It kept a consistent 3psi. We're gonna call it good on the head gaskets

Now my buddy is going to figure out the transaction, if possible.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 06:39 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by silverbullet6oh
AND the heater/ ac only goes to the defroster, so I am wondering if there is a vacuum leak.......
Thanks - Preston
If it has ESOF the first place I would check would be the vacuum lines to the knuckle that operate the looking hubs.

Originally Posted by silverbullet6oh
Mostly its just the clunking I hear going over bumps, and how the steering wheel is off.
The clunking sounds like bad ball joints. Pretty easy to check if you get the front end up in the air and a long board. The steering wheel being off should just need a drag link adjustment.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 07:46 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by silverbullet6oh
Tested the coolant system pressure. It kept a consistent 3psi. We're gonna call it good on the head gaskets

Now my buddy is going to figure out the transaction, if possible.
3 psig sounds too low. If it is at 190 F+ operating temperature, I would guess that either the mix is straight ethylene glycol, or the cap cannot hold pressure. I'm beyond 3 psig probably by 140 F.

I thought you had the thermostat replaced, but I can't recall about the cap.

Maybe more folks than I think run 3 psig, but I would just be concerned that the cap may be defective and hiding some issues, especially since it appears the truck needs a bit of work anyway, and whoever owns it wasn't necessarily real up on the 6.0.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 10:48 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by packagerjr
3 psig sounds too low. If it is at 190 F+ operating temperature, I would guess that either the mix is straight ethylene glycol, or the cap cannot hold pressure. I'm beyond 3 psig probably by 140 F.

I thought you had the thermostat replaced, but I can't recall about the cap.

Maybe more folks than I think run 3 psig, but I would just be concerned that the cap may be defective and hiding some issues, especially since it appears the truck needs a bit of work anyway, and whoever owns it wasn't necessarily real up on the 6.0.
Yeah, he did not buy the new thermostat, and I think the cap is good.

So, its what I had to deal with. He didn't want to buy those two things. So oh well.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 12:22 PM
  #44  
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Well this is probably going to be the final update on this thread. The guy that my buddy was trying to get this truck from said he doesn't want to do the trade for another month or two. I told him to walk away since the guy still plans to drive it in its current condition
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 12:56 PM
  #45  
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And the 03' doesn't use the EBP... why no reading, it's inferred.
The EGR is deleted, probably why the intake looks like it does.. it ruptured at one time. Oil cooler as well, that looks like what happens after trying to flush out a milkshake.

He said they pressurized it to 3psi and it held... to test the HG.

Guy live on a dirt road?
 
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