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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Alternator pulley

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Old Mar 26, 2017 | 09:04 AM
  #31  
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Gary Lewis
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Fixing other people's hacks can be really difficult when you don't know what the wiring was supposed to look like. I've been using the EVTM as well as factory wiring diagrams to sort out Big Blue's hacks. And it sometimes took both documents to figure it out.

So, good luck. And the guys on here can be a huge help when you get stuck.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2017 | 10:02 AM
  #32  
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Wiring can be tuff if that is not your thing.
I think I am pretty good at wiring but trying to follow Fords EVTM drive me nuts.


After reading Gary's night mare on BB and more so the trailer wiring as I would like to add that to my truck but may just bypass that setup now?


Yea if you need help just post up, will help the best I can.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 26, 2017 | 10:10 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
I think someone put a different ALT on that had that pulley or the stock pulley had a smaller ? dia outer pulley to drive the air pump that should be mounted above the ALT.-
Dave,
IDK about the I-6, but my 460 had a pulley with the same diameter.
The outer sheave driving the A.I.R. pumps used a narrower gauge belt. (I want to say 10mm?)
 
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Old Mar 26, 2017 | 03:26 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Dave,
IDK about the I-6, but my 460 had a pulley with the same diameter.
The outer sheave driving the A.I.R. pumps used a narrower gauge belt. (I want to say 10mm?)

yeah that other ther groove is for driving the air pump. It did come factory with that style of alternator. I still think the pulley was a good deal from Summit racing and I just wanted to let you guys know it worked. I don't doubt you guys about the wiring melting from the connector but it still had the original one but I replaced it since it came with the alternator. As far as charging goes it puts out 14.6 volts at idle so that seems good to me. I had went to a junkyard and found a good donor and replaced the majority of the wiring in the engine Bay. I still have to do the interior still. Big thing I want to figure out is the A/c since the blower motor and fuses are good but the blower still won't come on. I'll delve into that tomorrow and post a new thread for that. Thanks again for you guys help and support!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2017 | 04:42 PM
  #35  
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If the fuse and blower motor test good the next thing in line is the blower resistor pack mounted in the plenum.
There is a thermostatic fuse as part of it.
You can get one meant for a coffee maker or just replace the whole pack.
 
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