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I'm dyeing to do this simple mod. Only level the front up to 2.5", mine should be a 2" lift if I measured correctly.
Here are my questions; can this be done without a complete alignment and a new track bar re-locator? And what is the big difference between the $60 block kit and the $250 coil spacer kit? Seems as though the block would be more fragile. My truck is brand new and will not be off road. Thanks
I HAVE A 350 SO UNFORTUNATLEY TO LEVEL I HAD TO GO WITH A 3-3.5 KIT. I WILL SAY THOUGH, I PROBABLY COULD'VE JUST GOT BY WITH A 3" KIT. I WENT WITH THE READY LIFT SST KIT, 3.5 FRT AND THE 4" BLOCKS FOR THE REAR. NOW THE TRUCK LOOKS RIGHT, IMO. I HAVE 37S GOIN ON TODAY!
Sorry for the caps lock guys, was writing correspondence here at work.
I'm not understanding why I'm getting reply's on full lift kits, I only want to raise the front 2 inches to match up level with the stock rear. Putting on front kits and 4" or 5" rear blocks is not a leveling kit. This is what I'm looking at:
I am running a 1.5 block kit by ready lift without the trac bar adjusted. I do have one wheel that sticks out & plan on addressing it, but at the time that I did mine, there where not many options. You will have to have an alignment.
I have the readylift 2.5 on my truck. It is perfect with about a 1/2 to 1" of rake still. I will say I ordered the track bar relocation bracket to add since the level kit does slide the axle to the driver's side and the wheel sticks out 3/4". Once it warms up I'll install it. Others have said it realigns everything perfectly.
I have the 1 1/2" ready lift block and I did the track bar bracket, it did pull the axle back to center. I also needed the caster camber kits to reach alignment. My front measurements are now 44 3/4 and rear is 45 1/4" sits perfict. I also have the snowplow package.
i have the ready lift 2.5” and the track bar relocation bracket. For the price and all the components it comes with, it can’t be beat. Easy install. I have about 3/4” rake still. the bracket centers the axle perfectly (much easier than an adjustable track bar).
I have not had the caster shims installed yet. I will get alignment checked and then go from there. truck drives the same as it did prior to the level.
the only thing I do not like is the shock extension brackets. I will be upgrading to new shocks soon. maybe in the future I will upgrade to new coils??
I'm not understanding why I'm getting reply's on full lift kits, I only want to raise the front 2 inches to match up level with the stock rear. Putting on front kits and 4" or 5" rear blocks is not a leveling kit. This is what I'm looking at:
You get what you get and don't throw a fit! I was simply stating that with the 350 we need more up front to "level" and I added that I went with the blocks in the rear to raise it up 3/4" more than front. The 3.5 kit would've "leveled" the truck just right, but it would've had the Cali drag / Carolina stunting look! Good luck getting "level" in the truest sense. The blocks are tapered in the rear to accommodate rake, once the front end comes up, no more rake and you now have "slanted" blocks for no reason. So now, what you have to ask yourself is when I measured my fender wells before and ordered my "leveling" kit, is it going to be level? You hear all these guys replying" now my truck sits about level" or " its 3/4" taller in back" or " My front measurements are now 44 3/4 and rear is 45 1/4" sits perfict" What's perfect to you? What's "level"? are you willing to accept a difference in height from front to back? So IMO you should accept any answer on a thread that you can get to help you make the best INFORMED decision for what you want to achieve!
The Taper in the rear blocks is for the drive shaft pinion angle, If you remove the angle blocks you will need rear shims to correct the pinion angle, or deal with a possible vibration.
The Taper in the rear blocks is for the drive shaft pinion angle, If you remove the angle blocks you will need rear shims to correct the pinion angle, or deal with a possible vibration.
