front leveling kit
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: Edmonds, WA
Maybe you should educate yourself on rear block tapers......
You said earlier, """The blocks are tapered in the rear to accommodate rake, once the front end comes up, no more rake and you now have "slanted" blocks for no reason"" which is an incorrect statement...
The taper on a block is for pinion angle only on a straight axle.
You said earlier, """The blocks are tapered in the rear to accommodate rake, once the front end comes up, no more rake and you now have "slanted" blocks for no reason"" which is an incorrect statement...
The taper on a block is for pinion angle only on a straight axle.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,182
Likes: 177
i have the ready lift 2.5” and the track bar relocation bracket. For the price and all the components it comes with, it can’t be beat. Easy install. I have about 3/4” rake still. the bracket centers the axle perfectly (much easier than an adjustable track bar).
I have not had the caster shims installed yet. I will get alignment checked and then go from there. truck drives the same as it did prior to the level.
the only thing I do not like is the shock extension brackets. I will be upgrading to new shocks soon. maybe in the future I will upgrade to new coils??
I have not had the caster shims installed yet. I will get alignment checked and then go from there. truck drives the same as it did prior to the level.
the only thing I do not like is the shock extension brackets. I will be upgrading to new shocks soon. maybe in the future I will upgrade to new coils??
I don't know how yours came out with the extensions but the 2"-3" 2.0 fox shocks 980-24-646 Made a big difference in ride quality over stock.. Well worth the investment.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 144
Likes: 3
From: NC
Maybe you should educate yourself on rear block tapers......
You said earlier, """The blocks are tapered in the rear to accommodate rake, once the front end comes up, no more rake and you now have "slanted" blocks for no reason"" which is an incorrect statement...
The taper on a block is for pinion angle only on a straight axle.
You said earlier, """The blocks are tapered in the rear to accommodate rake, once the front end comes up, no more rake and you now have "slanted" blocks for no reason"" which is an incorrect statement...
The taper on a block is for pinion angle only on a straight axle.
I don't like to argue, but its simple geometry man!
If you change the "rise" side of the "triangle" the angles of the triangle change,(the "triangle" being the drive shaft(hypotenuse), frame(run) and height(rise). This therefore changes the pinion angle from the original way Ford set the axle. So when the pinion angle is changed the blocks that used to assist in the truck sitting properly are useless! they can still be used yes, but flat topped ones are better suited. Like I said lowered my carrier bearing = winning!
If I really wanted to get into it with you, I'd tell ya that tapered blocks are totally incorrect and that the perches should be re-welded once pinion angle is correct for application. With all intentions of keeping costs down and not making to much **** for 250 vs 350 tapered blocks made for the taller 350s.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 144
Likes: 3
From: NC
Truth, had them after my Icon shocks went on my old '08
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 156
thanks
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 2,378
Likes: 687
From: Wisconsin
You get what you get and don't throw a fit! I was simply stating that with the 350 we need more up front to "level" and I added that I went with the blocks in the rear to raise it up 3/4" more than front. The 3.5 kit would've "leveled" the truck just right, but it would've had the Cali drag / Carolina stunting look! Good luck getting "level" in the truest sense. The blocks are tapered in the rear to accommodate rake, once the front end comes up, no more rake and you now have "slanted" blocks for no reason. So now, what you have to ask yourself is when I measured my fender wells before and ordered my "leveling" kit, is it going to be level? You hear all these guys replying" now my truck sits about level" or " its 3/4" taller in back" or " My front measurements are now 44 3/4 and rear is 45 1/4" sits perfict" What's perfect to you? What's "level"? are you willing to accept a difference in height from front to back? So IMO you should accept any answer on a thread that you can get to help you make the best INFORMED decision for what you want to achieve!
I'm only defending myself here for the reason to keep on topic and I will not carry out any further arguments with you. Others posted exactly what I was inquiring about...a simple "front leveling kit". This was my first post here, hope it gets better if I post again.
New User
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
I did the Ready lift 2-1/2" level kit and drop bracket. Just got it aligned last weekend. Minimal adjustment required. Biggest thing was to re-center the steering wheel after drop bracket install. Difference in wheel well height is about 1" front to back.
New User
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Jimzpsd, Yes did the install myself and I am referring to track bar relocation bracket (same Ready Lift bracket as 2016 model year). Pretty easy install. Very frustrating though because the people I purchased the kit from (Stage 3) said I needed nothing else. But when I called to inform them of the axle shift to the driver's side, they had no idea it happened on their own project truck until I called. Nobody seems to know anything about these trucks yet.