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I've checked the boots and they are smooth and pliable. The CoPs are Accel and only 2 years old. I bought a BWD coil a few weeks ago to help troubleshoot but it hasn't made a difference.
ive been chasing the same issues with mine. lean bank 1, multiple cylinder misfire, crappy gas mileage. rough idle, low rpm chugging. im in the process of tracking it down and will let you know if/when i find it. done so many coils/injector/plug swaps that it makes me sick. just did compression test on 1-4 and got great readings so i can rule out a head on that side but consistantly get misfire on 3, buddy at ford did a cylinder balance test and he assured me 3 has low compression but the test showed good but 3 is still not good nor is my 8. sometimes 2 and 7 along with them.....maybe spark is crossing over on those two some how. anyway, hope you find out what is wrong and when i do i'll post up cuz im sure a lot of owners experience this, take it to multiple shops and fools a lot of techs and most prob give up and just sell it. ive read a few articles on cam phasers? not sure what that is since i spend most of my time building windsors but have seen a few post cam phasers acting up and causing this.....anyway, good luck and don't give up.
I now have an update on this truck. It seems to be the cam phasers (Thanks jetski). I'll get more info in a few hours.
I took the truck to my normal mechanic and he spent almost 2 weeks trying to track down the issue. For him, it would run ok for almost a minute before going back to missing badly. They checked everything related to ignition and mechanical, but found nothing. They felt it was the computer needed a reflash. They weren't able to do that and recommended the Ford dealer.
So I took it to the Ford dealer almost 3 weeks ago. I explained the history of the misfire issues, all that I had to troubleshoot it and what the other mechanic had done. After a few weeks, all they could tell me was they replaced an O2 sensor and that only 3 out of 8 cylinders are applying power to rest of the drive train. They could tell me why until this morning. I was just told it seemed to be the cam phasers. They said oil pressure wasn't right at the top of the motor. They recommend replacing the motor because replacing one old part may stress another old part soon after. The 5.4L has about 175,000 miles on it. I put the last 60,000 on it over the 2.5 years I've had it.
I don't remember a knock that others have mentioned relating to a failed cam phaser. But it has been many months since it has run correctly and a few months since I have heard it run. I'm heading over to speak with the current mechanic working on it so will update the status after our chat.
pdqford - it uses Coil over plugs, not regular coils.
If the engine is worn to a point where it won't produce good oil pressure due to worn journals or main bearings, then yes, it wont help replacing the phasers and the engine needs a rebuild or replacement. Before making this call, I'd hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and see where it's at. Also, I'd take off the valve covers and check the camshafts for abnormal wear. There are two or three possibilities for low pressure at the phasers, either the engine as a whole doesn't produce good oil pressure due to wear, or the oil channels going to the top are blocked at some point, or the VCT solenoids or the block they mount in have restricted oil channels. Could try to unplug the VCT solenoids and see how it runs then, as it will then default back to using base valve timing.
This afternoon I received a voicemail from the dealer mechanic telling me a little more info. He said the valve seats and the cam bearings were worn. It's late and I don't remember the rest. But he said replacing the engine was their answer. I'll call them in the morning to get more info.
I spoke to a mechanic that normally works on my truck. He had worked on it before the dealer got it. He couldn't find anything mechanically wrong with the engine which is why they suggested the dealer should reflash the computer.
For a replacement engine, what options are there? Pull a 5.4L from a another truck and install it? Order a re-manufactured engine? Do I have to use the same 5.4L as I have?
Oh well. Thank you all very much for the help you have given me with my headache on wheels.
Get FORScan, gives you more stuff. On Windows you can also run tests and such. In order to get a power balance test going, you need a Ford dealer level scantool, with Ford IDS. These cost a bit more, but you can get good Chinese knock offs for a decent price. Here's one: V98 VCM2 for Ford with WIFI Wireless Card Best Quality
Get the SP177-C or SP177-C1 if you decide to go that route. Those are the best. The others like SP177-1 and -B etc are lower quality and doesn't support the K-line ISO bus.
hello ,collegeus, the link is not work, obd2express change their name to obdexpress,I wanted to buy this tool( SP177-C1) http://www.obdexpress.co.uk/wholesale/be...rsion.html but now this type is no longer manufactured now apparently as its replacement model is this type (SP177-2) http://www.obdexpress.co.uk/wholesale/vc...ostic.html so I would like to hear your opinions whether you think this type is good to buy ??
Any one knows?
hello ,collegeus, the link is not work, obd2express change their name to obdexpress,I wanted to buy this tool( SP177-C1) http://www.obdexpress.co.uk/wholesale/be...rsion.html but now this type is no longer manufactured now apparently as its replacement model is this type (SP177-2) http://www.obdexpress.co.uk/wholesale/vc...ostic.html so I would like to hear your opinions whether you think this type is good to buy ??
Any one knows?
Hello,folks~the cheaper sp177-2 is not very good. USB cable that came with it doesn't even fit the tool. It's just too big to reach the connector. most important.. it's unusable. It keeps disconnecting from the laptop every 10 to 20 sec while watching data logger. I don't want to even risk programming with it.
Yeah, they cost more, but they work. Still ways from the cost of an original genuine VCM2. If it's for personal use, there's no reason to go for the genuine expensive tool, but if it's commercial use you should of course get a genuine one. Might be illegal to use a knock off commercially.
If the engine is worn to a point where it won't produce good oil pressure due to worn journals or main bearings, then yes, it wont help replacing the phasers and the engine needs a rebuild or replacement. Before making this call, I'd hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and see where it's at. Also, I'd take off the valve covers and check the camshafts for abnormal wear. There are two or three possibilities for low pressure at the phasers, either the engine as a whole doesn't produce good oil pressure due to wear, ....
Could the oil pump not be providing enough pressure?
I'm going to change my 5.4L timing chains soon and the more I read about the OEM oil pump I'm definitely going to change it, too.
Generally speaking, the oil pump does not supply pressure, it supplies flow. The correct clearances in the engine builds the pressure, thus a worn engine will have bad pressure even if the oil pump is good. That being said, the original OEM oil pump in these engines have a weak back plate. There are aftermarket upgrades from Melling that will solve this.
There are pumps that has the OEM spec but with better back plate, and there are high volume pumps that will improve the oil flow and pressure in the 3V engines in particular, which benefits the phasers and VCT system.
For the 2V engines, I don't think there's any reason to get the HV pumps, so a regular Melling 340 or 360 pump should do the trick, as it also has the improved back plate.
.... the original OEM oil pump in these engines have a weak back plate. There are aftermarket upgrades from Melling that will solve this. .... There are pumps that has the OEM spec but with better back plate, ....
When I work my way thru application menus at Melling.com, Autozone, Jegs, ... they list an M176 oil pump for our 2002 5.4L.
Is the M176 pump the one you mention as OEM, but with a better back plate?
I can't seem to find anyone's description detailing the back plate material.
Amazon carries the M340 pump, but it doesn't fit our 2002 (I know their application guide is not the best) and it has a cast aluminum body.
The Amazon description for the M176 states it has a cast iron body.
I would think a cast iron body pump would be better.
According to Rockauto, the 2000-2002 used the Melling M176, so that seems correct. My truck is a 05, so haven't researched what the previous years used. I wouldn't be surprised if they're nearly identical, perhaps just a difference in pickup tube or something since the engines are basically the same. Anyway, the Melling pumps will most likely be the ones with improved back plate. They have a fairly strong reputation in oil pumps it seems, so in this instance I'd trust them more than Motorcraft knowing there's a design flaw in the OEM pumps.