Chasing ignition problems
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
I recently installed Torque lite but need a reader that works with it. I'll probably pay for the full version but will still need the reader. Is there a reader that is recommended or one to avoid?
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,792
Likes: 3
I use the OBDLink MX Bluetooth. It's one of the best with additional support for Ford MS CAN and other protocols, it's not the cheapest but it's very good and offers higher read speeds compared to the cheap chinese stuff. It also has proper protection circuits in place, which sometimes can be skipped on the chinese ones to cut cost.. Many uses the chinese ones and are happy with those, so your mileage may vary. Personally I wanted access to MS CAN and a better experience using it, so I opted to pay the extra premium for a good one. You can find it on Amazon/ebay for about 90 bucks or so.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
So Steve369 won't need a fuel pressure tester.
Wonder what symptoms would occur if the factory sensor was reading low and the pressure was actually normal?
There's probably a code for low pressure, but how low?
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
I received my OBD2 adapter today. Got it paired with my phone and purchased Torque Pro. Wow, there is lots here. I'm not sure where to start. I see that I have vacuum around 20 psi. I couldn't find a power balance graph/test. I see the same error codes I had with my regular code reader. It also showed me some O2 sensor failures. Any suggestions on what I should be checking?
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,792
Likes: 3
Get FORScan, gives you more stuff. On Windows you can also run tests and such. In order to get a power balance test going, you need a Ford dealer level scantool, with Ford IDS. These cost a bit more, but you can get good Chinese knock offs for a decent price. Here's one: V98 VCM2 for Ford with WIFI Wireless Card Best Quality
Get the SP177-C or SP177-C1 if you decide to go that route. Those are the best. The others like SP177-1 and -B etc are lower quality and doesn't support the K-line ISO bus.
Get the SP177-C or SP177-C1 if you decide to go that route. Those are the best. The others like SP177-1 and -B etc are lower quality and doesn't support the K-line ISO bus.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Can't afford the good scan tool at this time.
Fuel pressure is about 38 psi.
Vacuum is about 21 psi.
I had received a code P0356 for the coil at cyl 6. Swapped it with a spare I have.
I've also been getting a P0171 error for lean bank 1.
I notice that sometimes the engine starts running correctly. It normally runs rough around 1600 - 1900 rpm. But sometimes I get a boost of power not from pressing the accelerator. It just starts running smooth. But it only lasts a few seconds. Still start bogging down when going up hill. Turning off overdrive raises the rpms and that helps with a smoother ride. Test drove for a few miles and it ran rough but no codes. It usually does this when the battery has been disconnected while swapping or replacing a plug, cop, etc. Not sure where to go next.
Fuel pressure is about 38 psi.
Vacuum is about 21 psi.
I had received a code P0356 for the coil at cyl 6. Swapped it with a spare I have.
I've also been getting a P0171 error for lean bank 1.
I notice that sometimes the engine starts running correctly. It normally runs rough around 1600 - 1900 rpm. But sometimes I get a boost of power not from pressing the accelerator. It just starts running smooth. But it only lasts a few seconds. Still start bogging down when going up hill. Turning off overdrive raises the rpms and that helps with a smoother ride. Test drove for a few miles and it ran rough but no codes. It usually does this when the battery has been disconnected while swapping or replacing a plug, cop, etc. Not sure where to go next.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Research and test those O2 sensors they do wear out.
Were the O2 sensor fails you got on just bank 1?
The P0171 could just be a loose exhaust pipe connection between the exhaust manifold and the first O2 sensor.
I was getting just the P0171 because the exhaust pipe was loose at the manifold.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 37
From: Central NYS
What does your brandy new scan tool
Show for long term fuel trims?
And what does it show for fuel pressure at that RPM?
And have you found the Mode$6 data yet?
Look for TID 53 for the misfire count by cylinder.
Can you hear a vacuum leak?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Thank you all for the helpful replies.
R&T Babich - I haven't heard any exhaust leaks but will check for loose connections.
pdqford - I haven't looked at fuel trim while running but will today. I have some driving to do. Haven't heard any vacuum leaks. Torque Pro tells me I have 20 - 22 psi of vacuum. Slight fluctuations when revving he engine but steady. I used some carb cleaner around vacuum lines and no change in rpms.
alloro - I'll take a closer look at the heated PCV system.
Using Torque Pro, I don't see any misfire counts. I saw somewhere in the forums where to adjust a setting so it would read misfires but I always had 255 misfires on all 8 cylinders. I removed that setting but now the misfire options are no longer green, active sensors. Not sure how to get it back.
R&T Babich - I haven't heard any exhaust leaks but will check for loose connections.
pdqford - I haven't looked at fuel trim while running but will today. I have some driving to do. Haven't heard any vacuum leaks. Torque Pro tells me I have 20 - 22 psi of vacuum. Slight fluctuations when revving he engine but steady. I used some carb cleaner around vacuum lines and no change in rpms.
alloro - I'll take a closer look at the heated PCV system.
Using Torque Pro, I don't see any misfire counts. I saw somewhere in the forums where to adjust a setting so it would read misfires but I always had 255 misfires on all 8 cylinders. I removed that setting but now the misfire options are no longer green, active sensors. Not sure how to get it back.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Yes, I have a bunch of new checks that start with [FORD]. I just removed the Ford PIDs and added them back but they still don't list as green (available sensors).
pdqford - I checked the long fuel trim; at idle, bank 1 is about 18% and bank 2 is about 4%. On flat highway, bank 1 = 10% and bank 2 = -.8%. Going uphill, bank 1 = 27% and bank 2 = 6.2%. Going Down hill, bank 1 = 5.5% and bank 2 = -4.5%.
pdqford - I checked the long fuel trim; at idle, bank 1 is about 18% and bank 2 is about 4%. On flat highway, bank 1 = 10% and bank 2 = -.8%. Going uphill, bank 1 = 27% and bank 2 = 6.2%. Going Down hill, bank 1 = 5.5% and bank 2 = -4.5%.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 37
From: Central NYS
Moving plugs and COPs around doesn't seem to make much difference. Since bank #1 seems to be the common issue, like I suggested earlier, I would want to see a compression check on bank #1 to confirm mechanical health of that side. Also, not to cause alarm, but it is interesting that cylinder 2 and 3 seem to be a common theme, and they are adjacent, which *might* indicate a head gasket issue. I'd like to eliminate those basics first.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
About a week ago I tried to do a compression check but the compression gauge I borrowed from Auto Zone wouldn't thread in. Tried a few cylinders and couldn't get it to work.
The other day, I pulled most of the spark plugs to take a look. Didn't see anything unusual. Put them back in but in different cylinders. The CoPs also in different cylinders. Wanted to see if I could get a different error. Now it has trouble idling and giving it gas almost kills it. After a minute or two it shuts down. I have no idea now what is wrong. I can't think of what would make it worse.
There is a vacuum hose that runs behind the intake from the driver's side, just above the master cylinder, to the passenger's side at the intake. It looks old and nasty. I'll try to replace that soon.
The other day, I pulled most of the spark plugs to take a look. Didn't see anything unusual. Put them back in but in different cylinders. The CoPs also in different cylinders. Wanted to see if I could get a different error. Now it has trouble idling and giving it gas almost kills it. After a minute or two it shuts down. I have no idea now what is wrong. I can't think of what would make it worse.
There is a vacuum hose that runs behind the intake from the driver's side, just above the master cylinder, to the passenger's side at the intake. It looks old and nasty. I'll try to replace that soon.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 24,322
Likes: 5,132
From: 0,0,1
The other day, I pulled most of the spark plugs to take a look. Didn't see anything unusual. Put them back in but in different cylinders. The CoPs also in different cylinders. Wanted to see if I could get a different error. Now it has trouble idling and giving it gas almost kills it. After a minute or two it shuts down. I have no idea now what is wrong. I can't think of what would make it worse.