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Dana 60 question here. I would like to put a 60 under my obs f-250. A buddy of mine has a 91 king pin axle he wants to sell, I've been looking locally for prices and what they are going for, he's asking $750, if is complete axle. Would it be worth it or hold out for a ballpoint axle? I'm in no rush to tear my truck apart, the front axle is ok, but will need new bushings and things like that so I figured I'd straight axle it instead. Thanks
Can't see your location on mobile but where I'm at that would be a steal. Any model D60 regardless of condition around here goes for >$1000, at least is the case with all the ones I've seen. The king pins are touted as tougher. I bought a ball joint because that's what I'm familiar w and it came w the driveshaft but there's plenty of king pin axles under OBS F250s.
Dana 60 question here. I would like to put a 60 under my obs f-250. A buddy of mine has a 91 king pin axle he wants to sell, I've been looking locally for prices and what they are going for, he's asking $750, if is complete axle. Would it be worth it or hold out for a ballpoint axle? I'm in no rush to tear my truck apart, the front axle is ok, but will need new bushings and things like that so I figured I'd straight axle it instead. Thanks
From what I have seen, king pins are more desirable..
From what I have seen, king pins are more desirable..
Maybe to some but not to me. I'm good with my bj 60. Let's be honest 99% of us will never need kp. And I like using the "correct" brakes. All I'm saying is I would not swap my bj for a kp. If you can get a kp then go for it!
Thanks for all the replies, I'm gonna go look it over to make sure everything is as it should be. I have a couple calls out about balljoint 60's. If I don't hear anything in a few days I may just go get the kp one and use it.
The kingpin D60s are more desirable to mainly the offroaders. The cons of the kingpin axle is they don't turn as sharp as a ball joint axle, and they have 12" rotors and the slide bar calipers. the early ball joint axles ('92 to early '95) also have 12" rotors and slide bar calipers. the later ones (late '95 to '97) have 13" rotors and bolt on calipers.
I'm a big fan of KP 60s, couple reasons. Their easy to service when the time comes, aftermarket support is great and the big seller for me is I could get rid of this ridiculous drag link tie rod combo that ford desinged.... You can put high steer arms and a hell of a beafy 0 play drag link/tie rod combo on it..
As Bill said tho, I'm an offroad (not in my truck) guy so I dig well built strong axles..
When you guys talk about the brakes on the kingpin axle, are they harder to service or don't work as well as the newer style? Can you retro fit newer style brakes to the kingpin axle?
When you guys talk about the brakes on the kingpin axle, are they harder to service or don't work as well as the newer style? Can you retro fit newer style brakes to the kingpin axle?
They aren't any harder to service, just a different mounting style for the calipers, and smaller rotors and pads as the later ball joint axles. They work just fine, I just like the bigger rotors and bolt on calipers of the later year ball joint axles. Like I said though, the early ball joint axles had the smaller rotors and slide bar calipers. It's just a preference thing really. Any D60 you get will be just fine.
Is this a bolt on or do the knuckles require significant machining?
Also, can the newer ball joint knuckles be swapped onto an older ball joint without any compromises?
If it was me, and a D60 was in my future, and the aforementioned KP came with the hard to source items (Ubolt casting, etc) I would get it, inspect it and note what, if anything, needs to be replaced, and set it aside until you were ready for it. Advertise for a swap to a BJ of your preference. If you get a swap, great. But having a KP D60 in your truck is still something to be proud of!
Is this a bolt on or do the knuckles require significant machining?
Also, can the newer ball joint knuckles be swapped onto an older ball joint without any compromises
Bolt on with the exception of needing a welder.
You simply drill out your knuckles to 7/8", and your pitman arm to 1". Then you weld tapered inserts into them. I had to heat up my diff cover and push it in maybe 1/4" to get the tie rod to clear the diff cover at full lock. It uses the GM 1 ton TREs as they're cheap and available everywhere.
I only did it because when I bought a parts truck for the front D60 the drag link was bent like a banana. New factory Ford steering was $350 or so and I spent $220 plus my time for way nicer steering.
As for your knuckle question - yes later style knuckles will swap onto an earlier housing. Problem is nobody with later style knuckles will want to trade for the older style and if you can them on eBay or the sorts they're going to be stupid money.
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