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Header Touching Frame?!?

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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 06:32 PM
  #16  
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Solder will just melt out the next time you drive the truck. JB weld has the possibility of expanding at a different rate as the cast iron. If it expands faster, or takes longer to contract while cooling then you will end up breaking off that piece of the thread. It is best to just leave it alone until you have the time and money to repair or replace it.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 06:34 PM
  #17  
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Even if I use the extreme heat JB Weld which is suppose to be resistant up to 2,400 degrees and made specifically for cracks in iron and steel?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 07:32 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by BigBlocker0248
Even if I use the extreme heat JB Weld which is suppose to be resistant up to 2,400 degrees and made specifically for cracks in iron and steel?
Just forget it and leave the crack alone.

No kind of epoxy is going to repair a cracked thread in a cast iron exhaust port.

Some cracks can be brazed, but again.... remove the head and completely disassemble, preheat, braze, check for flat, rethread, reassemble head and reinstall.

​​​​​​​
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 07:43 PM
  #19  
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I'd make sure you use the longest bolts that'll safely thread into the holes, maybe even run a bottoming tap into them, and as long as the bolts reach well past the crack I'd never think about them again. Remflex header gaskets too, they are way better than anything else I've ever run.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 08:06 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by OldRacerGuy
I'd make sure you use the longest bolts that'll safely thread into the holes, maybe even run a bottoming tap into them, and as long as the bolts reach we'll past the crack I'd never think about them again. Remflex header gaskets too, they are way better than anything else I've ever run.
What's the part number on those header gaskets? Will they work better than the cardboard ones? Are they soft aluminum?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 10:19 PM
  #21  
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Yes....solder them up.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2017 | 08:39 AM
  #22  
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You'll never get the surface clean enough for solder to stick. Waste of time. Same with any JB Weld. Never get it to stick to flaky rust. With the temp change and it swells the JB will just crack and fall out. If the spot was NOT the exhaust it might have a chance of staying.

Just run it.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2017 | 08:58 AM
  #23  
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Na, solder it up.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2017 | 02:04 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by BigBlocker0248
What's the part number on those header gaskets? Will they work better than the cardboard ones? Are they soft aluminum?

RF3013, I think. Not aluminum, some sort of graphite. Very soft, they crush a lot.


Make sure you get gaskets for a late model FI 460, they are different than the earlier motors.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2017 | 07:28 AM
  #25  
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I see you fixed your header clearance issue. My suggestion was going to be to take a come a long, and jut bend the header inwards away from the frame a little bit. Someone suggested that to me on my truck that had the same issue, it took minutes and worked perfect!
 
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Old Feb 4, 2017 | 06:05 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by '89F2urd
Na, solder it up.
Maybe some bubble gum or crazy glue
 
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Old Feb 4, 2017 | 06:53 PM
  #27  
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I agree with most of the others, solder or JB Weld probably will not work. Bolt it up and hope for the best. If the cracks become a problem, exhaust leaks, it will be time for new or rebuilt heads. If you want to try solder or JB Weld, I doubt it can hurt anything. Good luck.
 
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