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The engine turns clockwise normally. The piston will be down in the bottom of the cylinder, and as it starts up the cylinder with both valves closed, it will start blowing air. So then you have to turn it some more to get the piston all the way at the top. That's when the marks start showing up.
I am trying to get straight in my head if doing this backwards(counterclockwise) would affect anything. You could do it clockwise again, just to check it. Turn it clockwise from where you set it, and you should see the marks come around, but no air(this is the exhaust stroke for #1). Keep going and then it should start blowing air, turn it a little bit more and the marks should be coming around again. Stop at about 10 BDTC and see if your rotor is pointing to #1. If it is you are good.
Then put the other wires on in the correct order. Squirt a little fuel in the carb and I bet it starts right up. You will be the neighborhood engine expert after this.
So I finally got the distributor in there, lined the rotor up with where I intend to put spark plug 1 on the cap, but now I've found another issue. On my old spark plug cap the plugs seem to be in a different position than the diagram posted on here, and from what I could find online. I took the 1 spark plug cable all the way off, and the adjacent spark plug cables are leading to different spark plug holes on the engine. They go 3, then 1, then 2. That is if the engines order is
4 8
3 7
2 6
1 5
should I just put them on 1, 8, 7, 3, 6, 2, 4, 5 CW?
I don't know the firing order but some of the stock intake manifolds had it cast into them. Also don't know if CW or CCW but easy to find. Turn the motor over and look at what way the rotor turns.
Order 1, 8, 7, 3, 6, 2, 4, 5 sounds right not the 1,3 .......
So as long as you have the right firing order and know the way the rotor turns you can have #1 point to anywhere on the cap you want. It just makes it easier down the road when it matches what the book shows so you or someone else does not say WTH!
Dave ----
If you notice, the firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The engine turns clockwise looking at the front of the engine crankshaft pulley. If you notice in the diagram below from the last page, looking down on the dist it turns counterclockwise. If you look the firing order up on the internet, a non-ho 302 is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8, which matches the picture below.
So Im almost complete, just a few more things to go. Correct me if Im wrong, but I leave the wires hooked up from the distributor to the cap (blue arrow), plug a wire into the "Bat" hole (black arrow) and run it to the ignition. The red arrow being the vacuum advance goes to the vacuum line on the carburetor. The "tach" hole on the cap remains untouched.
So Im almost complete, just a few more things to go. Correct me if Im wrong, but I leave the wires hooked up from the distributor to the cap (blue arrow), plug a wire into the "Bat" hole (black arrow) and run it to the ignition. The red arrow being the vacuum advance goes to the vacuum line on the carburetor. The "tach" hole on the cap remains untouched.
Is right and to add to it.
The BATT should get full 12 volt power with the key to run and start. If not when key turned to start the motor will not start.
I think the best way is to use a relay and use the old IGN wire to trigger the relay. But check it to make sure it has power when cranking motor over.
TACH can be left open. If you have or want to used a Tach you would hook it up to that plug.
Vacuum advance line. There are 2 ways this can be done.
1-Hook it to manifold vacuum.
2-Hook to PORTED vacuum on the carb. Ported only has vacuum when the throttle is open off idle.
I would say try both ways and see what works the best for you.
Me I have always used ported and have never tried manifold vacuum.....yet.
Dave ----
