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He doesn't have enough wires hooked to the ignition switch. The switch should be fed by a hot wire, and it should have one wire leaving the switch going to the solenoid, and another going to the HEI dist or the resistor and coil like he is showing. His diagram is for a points type dist. Unless you use the HEI dist, you are going to need a ignition module also, along with the resistor and coil. It all depends on what distributor you buy.
Another option is to use a points type distributor and upgrading to a PerTronix kit.
The HEI distributor will work, but they often have clearance issues with the stock thermostatic air cleaner. It's HUGE. The HEI has to be the ugliest monstrosity of a distributor I have ever seen. The design was by GM, where their distributors were located at the back of the engine. The points type distributor with a PerTronix kit will be just as simple to hook up, and look completely stock.
hopefullu itll clear. I just know Ill need to be careful on which wires I remove because as it stands now Im not so sure what all can go but I would like to get everything unnecessary out
Update: My carburetor was stolen from my f100 (the 4 barrel edelbrock) which just forces me to take the 2 barrel carb out of my f150 (with the seized engine). Ive begun to remove the wiring from my f150 to transplant into the f100, they both are 82's. Im planning on moving nearly all the wiring, the carb, the computer, and the distributor from the f150 to the f100. Is there anything else I should consider moving to the f100? I want all the parts to be compatible with each other.
If the f150 has a 2 barrel carb on a 302, are you sure it even has a computer? If you use your HEI dist and wire it up like your diagram, you should be able to get it to run, and mess with the extra wiring later.
It has this thing in it, which I was told isnt a computer but boosts something. Still I followed some wires from the distributor (which is very similar to the one I originally bought when I realized I needed vacuum advance, it even has what seems to be the same plug coming off of it, only difference is theres only one vacuum advance line coming off of it instead of two) to the MSD box. I havent picked up the HEI distributor yet, will probably end up returning it since Im almost all the way through pulling out the wiring and such. Having a bit of trouble pulling out the distributor, which is why I stopped for the night. After much headache removed the bolt from the base of it, but still the middle piece with all the blades on it stays still even if I move the rest of the distributor. when I try to turn the middle piece it moves a bit then if I let go it springs back.
I would not return the HEI. I would use it. You are getting into a big can or worms with the other setup. It would be doable, but you will have lots of wires to figure out, and different ignition modules to wire up. If you feel like getting diagrams and figuring it all out, then go ahead. If you just want to hook one wire up to the dist and go, then keep the HEI.
That MSD box is a high performance ignition module. It can be hooked in two different ways; One is directly to the Ford distributor and the other way is piggybacked onto the Ford ignition module.
I would not return the HEI. I would use it. You are getting into a big can or worms with the other setup. It would be doable, but you will have lots of wires to figure out, and different ignition modules to wire up. If you feel like getting diagrams and figuring it all out, then go ahead. If you just want to hook one wire up to the dist and go, then keep the HEI.
That MSD box is a high performance ignition module. It can be hooked in two different ways; One is directly to the Ford distributor and the other way is piggybacked onto the Ford ignition module.
I would have to check my MSD wiring CD but I don't remember seeing a piggy backed setup on it. The MSD box would take the place of the MC box using the stock dist. as the trigger and with the right wiring harness plugs into the stock dist.
BTW you can use a points type dist. to trigger the MSD box if you want, think thru the white wire.
As good as the MSD setup is the box has also been known to go bad at any time. It is also a little hard to trouble shoot IIRC.
If you are not into tracing out wires then the HEI is the way to go.
IIRC the large red & black wires go to the batt (power all the time)
Small red & black power key on/run & ground.
White think points dist. trigger and can be used to kill spark when cranking then flip onto start. Kind of like the retard of the stock MC box.
Other wires go to the dist. purple & orange?
Dave ----
These are my 3 distributors, the only one missing is the one I have been unable to get out of my f150. Im going to use the HEI, but cant really figure out how. do I detach the wires from the cap or the metal part below, or what?
They look compatible
Also can it work if wires I use are slightly different in size, or does it have to be precisely the right size?
On the HEI, unplug the wires from the cap, then take a small screwdriver and push down and twist to get the cap retainers loose to take the cap off.
If you are going to do all that re-wiring like your diagram shows earlier, then go buy some 12 gauge wire and hook it all up with that. The HEI works best with the larger wire, and your starter solenoid works best with the larger wire also.
Are you going to have someone help you install the distributor? The wiring can be the least of your worries, you have to get that dist lined up correctly.
Those screws you are having trouble with are not screws. Take your screwdriver and push down hard on them. While you are doing that, if you have a spare hand or finger, put that right under the area of that screw on the aluminum body of the dist. You will feel a "L" shaped hook going up and down as you push the screw down and then up. You may want to hold the dist sideways and push down hard on the screw while you look underneath at what is going on.
Once you see what I am talking about you will get it.
OK thanks I got the cap off. But I watched a video about wiring HEI dist and they just wired it from the part saying "TACH BAT" which makes it seem unnecessary to remove the cap. They wired it from BAT to the fuse box for ignition and Im guessing from there to the key. Im also guessing with the current plan Im supposed to just bypass the fuse box?
This makes me a bit concerned. The connector identified by the red arrow was never connected on my f150's carburetor (as far as I know) so I assume its unnecessary. However the two wires connected to the carburetor (Identified by the blue) seem important and makes me think I will need them for it to run. Is this true?
Also shouldnt the firing order be relatively simple to figure out by looking it up on a diagram specific to this distributor?
You have to take the cap off to get the distributor lined up and roughly in time. I hope you have some people to come over to help you install it.
I am not sure what you are trying to achieve. This thread started out with a very simple diagram, it looked to me like you were just trying to get the truck started and running. Now you are worried about wires to the carb. There are lots and lots of wires that do many things on your truck. If you are going to put this on the road and want everything to work, you need to ditch that diagram you drew up and wire it up the correct way.
Do you have the original wire that went to the coil on top of the engine somewhere? It should be red/green or green red.
If you want to do this in baby steps, get your friends over there and get the dist swapped out, run a wire temporarily from the BAT terminal to the battery +. Get the engine started with the new dist and get a timing light on it and get it timed and running right. Then you can take the wire off the battery to shut it off, and then wire it in like it's supposed to be. We can help you with that.
