I'm going to do a clutch kit replacement on my 1977 F150 4x4. What's the best way to go about learning the steps? Should I buy the Haynes manual or is there a good online resource? I've googled everything I could think of and didn't find a thorough DIY/tutorial. I will most likely also do the flywheel at the same time.

 

A Haynes manual will get you in the ballpark but it wont give you exact step by step instructions. Others might chime in after me to offer more info. Its really not that difficult of a job to do just that those parts your removing to get to the clutch are all very heavy, so be prepared to deal with that. Mostly the T-case. Its an awkward unbalanced pig. The trans isn't too bad, again very heavy components. And I'd definitely resurface the flywheel along with a new throw out bearing and all NEW clutch parts while your there because Im sure you dont want to have to be doing it again a year or 2 later. The last time i did a clutch job was in 1993....and I sold my F-150 3 years ago. I used a Borg Warner Brute Power clutch kit. Worked great...zero issues.

 

Personally, I like to remove the T case from the trans before I start messing with the trans.......on any 4x4......just makes it that much easier to balance on a jack.............I normally use a ratchet strap across the top of the trans, to keep it on the jack so it doesn't fall off on top of me. When I stabbed my T case the last time....I used a ratchet strap looped over the TC mount that is bolted to the TC then attached the hooks of the strap to the jack plate. I worked really well to keep the lop sided SOB on the jack......

 

You pretty much either need to split the TCase, or pull the crossmember, as I recall - about the same time needed (crossmembers aren't fun), and splitting them makes them a lot easier to handle (and it probably leaks oil there anyhow, good excuse to re-seal it). I believe you can also pull the transmission off the bellhousing with it still bolted to the motor - that makes life easier, too, you aren't fighting the firewall and cab floor pulling the transmission.

Dress the flywheel I don't care how good it looks, and change the pilot and throwout bearings - usually included in a good kit. Beyond that, it's pretty straightforward.

 

Great info. I was planning of machining the flywheel or just putting a new one in. The throwout bearing is toast so that for sure. I figure while I'm under there replace whatever I can.

Good call on splitting the TC, I was wondering how I was going to do that. I'll have to find the right seal.

What should I expect to come pouring out on me in the process? How much volume should I account for?

Thanks,

Matt

 

Check this out... https://www.amazon.com/1977-Ford-Tru...ck+shop+manual

Much better than a Hayne's or Chilton in my opinion, and nearly the same price. It's the original Ford manuals on CD-rom. I cut and paste them from the CD to a cheap laptop I have and have it with me in the garage when im doing bigger work.

A good tranny jack or tranny jack adapter will be clutch.

 

x2 on having the flywheel resurfaced, & replace the pilot bearing.
If you don't forget to drain the trans/tc you shouldn't have much fluid when you split them

 

Manual to LOOK at, FTE to read tips and tricks and help as much as we can with out being there. X1000 that xfer case is a finger smashing pig. Get a trans jack or make a cradle you can chain strap the xfer case to your floor jack. The cross member is a PIAT to twist/flat prop (like airplane prop) to remove it.
Yes resurface flywheel face. New clutch, pressure plate, throw put bearing (all in one kit).

I personally find it easier to pull the complete front clip (14 bolts) and the motor than wrestle the trans and xfer case. The wood is to help remove the retaining cap on the stick...keep reading.

NP435 = aluminum top cover w/8 bolts
T-18 = cast iron top cover w/6 bolts
Warranty Plate TRANS code: A = NP435 (N-1965 only) / F = Warner T-18 / P = F350 Warner T-19.
Warner shift lever retainer cap (8MTH-7220) threads on/off.

READ!!!!! NP435 shift lever retainer cap (B8T-7220-D) has two notches, is retained to shift tower by two pins.
To remove this cap, it must be pressed down 9use the piece of wood) and held down while turning it counter clock wise to remove it. (Its spring loaded and twists into place, we removed one and it was a 2 person job. Put the trans into 2nd, 4th, or reverse, then one person holds the cap and applies pressure, twisting in a counter clockwise direction. The other person hits it from the top with a hammer to get the cap to go in below the two clips that hold it in.) People unaware use pliers or channel locks to remove it, which tears out the pins.

Originally NP435: Reverse-down towards the seat while Warner T-18: Reverse-up towards the dash.
The reverse shift pattern was changed circa 1973, but I can't recall for which of these 4 speeds. ( I believe it the NP435)
Note: There's another 4 speed: RUG SR-OD Single Rail 4 Speed Overdrive introduced in 1978 F100/150 300/302, TRANS code B

The 400 uses a 12" clutch and the 351m uses a 11"
D7TZ-6375-D .. 400 Flywheel-Use with 12" clutch.
D7TZ-6375-E .. 351M Flywheel-Use with 11" clutch.

 

Wow, thanks for putting that together! Lots of great info.

It definitely has a NP435 and 351M.

Interesting idea of pulling the motor. I have thought about giving her a tune. Pretty sure I have a header leak, maybe a lifter tick. The truck runs reliably and relatively quite/smooth but it does need some work to get to where I would be happy driving it every day.

 

The engine hoist through the door is hands down the best way to drop the transmission and transfer case. They are crazy heavy. I am a rather muscular man in his early 30s and no way would I attempt to lift just the transfer case off the ground on my own.

Not much to it. Take off driveshafts. Take off shift lever. If using engine hoist through door strap it up before you take off the cross member. then loosen transmission bolts. use a jack under the back of the engine to keep it from cocking down.

Bell housing bolts can be a little tricky maybe...i know they were on my 76 Bronco. You will need an alignment tool to get the clutch disc lined up. I have an input shaft from an old worthless Bronco 3 spd I use. But you can buy the plastic ones.


Really basic nut and bolt stuff, just with big and bulky items.

 

All the above in is right here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...then-some.html

It is all from fellow FTE members over the years.

If you are dropping the trans make sure to remove the stick shift following the above directions, so you do not break off the cap (2) ears or the housing (2) pins. And the stick shift does not take a beating as you drop and move around the transmission.

 

Thanks guys, I feel a lot more confident about doing it now. Seems like I have enough info to get started.

Needing an alignment tool is a good call. Is that the only specialty tool? I have all the standards; sockets, wrenches, torque wrenches, an engine hoist, a 3 ton jack and stands... Amazon should deliver a tranny cradle for the jack soon.

 

You mean a clutch alignment tool? Some people use a piece of broom stick. The are cheap and worth the couple of bucks.

 

Ha! Oddly enough, I got one of those.

 

A clutch alignment (plastic) tool is only like $10....

"an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".