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Think I may have a high pressure oil leak in my 06 F350 with about 122K miles. Last couple of days it has been taking about 8 seconds of cranking to get her started when warm/hot.
FICM: 47-48.5v recently done by Ed
Batt's looks good
Sync good
This was from this morning after soaking about 12 hours. She was plugged in and took about the usual time to start, about 4 seconds https://youtu.be/vMFkNts6aUI
I suspect dummy plugs and stand pipes. Have them on order and will do them next weekend. Should be within my capabilities. Hopefully the STC isn't going. Not sure if I have confidence to do that myself.
On a side note, is there a good shop in the East Denver/Aurora, CO area. Stopped by the closest dealer to get the SP/DP kit today and they want list price for parts. For S&G, talked to the service writer for doing the R&R/no diagnostics for this....6 hours labor (~$750).
You really need to do an air test if you want to nail down what is actually leaking. What are your reservations about doing the job yourself? There are plenty of folks here willing to walk you through anything, lots of guys here will even talk on the phone to others who are having issues.
If you do bring it to a shop then do yourself a favor and be sure they know how to work on this engine.
6 hours without troubleshooting is pretty long for that job, and they will sock you another hour minimum for diagnostics.
The cost of doing the STC is not that high really.
Also, please be sure to just remove the FICM relay after the dummy plugs/standpipes job while you are cranking to purge all of the air out of the system. Removing the FICM relay will prevent low supply side voltage from hitting the FICM while you are getting the air out.
15 seconds of cranking with a battery charger on, of course. Then let it rest, 15 more seconds of cranking, that sort of thing. Until you see ICP above 500. Then, give it time on a 10 amp charger until the batteries see 13.5 volts.
Once they do, reinstall your FICM relay and it'll fire right up!
If the STC fitting isn't an issue now, it will be soon. Very likely, a dummy plug or STC fitting now. Standpipes are less common, but there is logic in doing them while you are in there.
If you'd like to cover other things that it could make sense to do 'while you are in there', give us a call Monday (515-897-4459). Just ask for me and we'll discuss all of the options in a no-pressure-just-trying-to-help sort of way. I'll work to talk you out of things you just don't need while giving you a price unable to be beat elsewhere on what you do. We're up to about two million skus that we carry.
You really need to do an air test if you want to nail down what is actually leaking. What are your reservations about doing the job yourself? There are plenty of folks here willing to walk you through anything, lots of guys here will even talk on the phone to others who are having issues.
If you do bring it to a shop then do yourself a favor and be sure they know how to work on this engine.
6 hours without troubleshooting is pretty long for that job, and they will sock you another hour minimum for diagnostics.
The cost of doing the STC is not that high really.
My reservations about doing the STC is time/location and abuse on the body. We are living in our 5th wheel until our house sells back east so I have no place local to do the work. Have to head south to the USAF Academy to do the work on their schedule. If I can get the work done in 8 hour chunks, I should be good to go. I have never pulled a turbo or HPOP. Not sure if I can get that done in one day without breaking anything, rushing to get it back together, or having to make a parts run for something I forgot.
With the SP/DP's, I can get one side done and judge my time from there.
Also, please be sure to just remove the FICM relay after the dummy plugs/standpipes job while you are cranking to purge all of the air out of the system. Removing the FICM relay will prevent low supply side voltage from hitting the FICM while you are getting the air out.
15 seconds of cranking with a battery charger on, of course. Then let it rest, 15 more seconds of cranking, that sort of thing. Until you see ICP above 500. Then, give it time on a 10 amp charger until the batteries see 13.5 volts.
Once they do, reinstall your FICM relay and it'll fire right up!
If the STC fitting isn't an issue now, it will be soon. Very likely, a dummy plug or STC fitting now. Standpipes are less common, but there is logic in doing them while you are in there.
If you'd like to cover other things that it could make sense to do 'while you are in there', give us a call Monday (515-897-4459). Just ask for me and we'll discuss all of the options in a no-pressure-just-trying-to-help sort of way. I'll work to talk you out of things you just don't need while giving you a price unable to be beat elsewhere on what you do. We're up to about two million skus that we carry.
Thanks for the reminder on the relay and batteries. I will work on the SP/DP's then give you a call when I start planning the STC.
Anything can be done with time and/or money. I have some of the time but the wife sees the money.
dealer to get the SP/DP kit today and they want list price for parts. For S&G, talked to the service writer for doing the R&R/no diagnostics for this....6 hours labor (~$750). 
