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Rear bottom valve cover bolt is being a pain. Feels like it wants to cross thread.
Sometimes just trying a different bolt makes the difference. They can be a pain and that is one spot you don't want to end up with problems. I had one last fall that felt that way, so tried a different bolt after spraying some lubricant down in the hole.
Sometimes just trying a different bolt makes the difference. They can be a pain and that is one spot you don't want to end up with problems. I had one last fall that felt that way, so tried a different bolt after spraying some lubricant down in the hole.
Got the drivers side done today before the body told me to f $!# off. 2 crank cycles with out the relay and a third with it in and she fired up. After the 80 mile ride home and a couple of starts later, she is firing within 1 second. Never started that quick since I owned the truck.
I will see how long it takes me to recover and do the passing side next weekend. And the STC in the next couple of months.
My trick on the passenger side. Remove all the valve cover bolts, then go underneath and remove the 2 passenger side motor mount nuts. Then grab a 2x4 about 18" long or something similar and a floor jack. Use that combo to tilt the engine by the exhaust manifold. That will allow the stand pipe to clear the HVAC box and come straight out.
Also, my stand pipes almost always come out in 2 pieces. To get the lower section out, remove the o-ring from the bottom of the shorter upper section and replace it with a fuel injector o-ring. The kind you want came on practically everything built in the 90's and 00's but you can look up one for a 1990 F150 with a 302 v8. That o-ring is a little too big. Install it and then re-install the upper section of the stand pipe all the way down, and then remove it again. With the oversized oring it will grab the lower section and pull it all out as one piece.