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Ebrake Caliper Options?

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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 06:21 PM
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Ebrake Caliper Options?

What choices do I have besides the TSM (Caddy)or Caddy calipers?

I wonder if running the ebrake cable through a couple of pulleys on either side would add torque/force, the way a compound bow works, to the piston, thereby clamping harder the pads to the rotor, with the Caddy calipers.

I know about the inline locks.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 06:54 PM
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I haven't done a disc brake conversion... but I did look at it.

Wilwood makes a combination caliper that would be worth taking a look at. Also they have dedicated mechanical calipers which you could mount as parking brake - might get away with only one side.

Your idea on the pulleys is an interesting one. I think you would have an issue getting enough travel out of the parking brake pedal to make it work though.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 07:27 PM
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I plan to buy the following calipers from RockAuto.com this week. I will reuse the factory e-brake cables. Hopefully this will work out.

Years ago I did a drum to disc conversion using the brackets only from Greatlake Offroad. Then bought the non e-brake calipers. They worked.

Looks like Greatlake has improved and they now have a whole kit you can buy..

Link to GreatLake Offroad product: Ford Dana 60 Full Disk Brake Kit






A-1 Cardone Part #184138, $41.79 and Part# 184139, $41.79
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
What choices do I have besides the TSM (Caddy)or Caddy calipers?

I wonder if running the ebrake cable through a couple of pulleys on either side would add torque/force, the way a compound bow works, to the piston, thereby clamping harder the pads to the rotor, with the Caddy calipers.

I know about the inline locks.
I tried the line locks with my front F-250 calipers. Never could get it to really hold big 37" tires.. Kinda a waste for me. Plus it wasn't the safest option..
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 07:30 PM
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If you want to use a disc brake set up, just do this, a drive shaft bake

http://highangledriveline.com/
Unk Bob
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 07:53 PM
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Transfer case E-brake is another good option.

Question: Which holds better?

a) caddy calipers
b) driveline e-brake

I am curious. I live in West Virginia. Lots of hills, hollers, steep roads. Parking brake is critical here..
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 07:55 PM
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These drive line brakes are what's used in large trucks like box trucks that don't have air brakes.

Unk Bob
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 07:39 AM
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The driveshaft brake is far stronger as it has the mechanical advantage of the rear axle.

On my truck i have a slip yoke on the transfer case so I'm not sure how easy it would be to set this up.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by highway90
I plan to buy the following calipers from RockAuto.com this week. I will reuse the factory e-brake cables. Hopefully this will work out.

Years ago I did a drum to disc conversion using the brackets only from Greatlake Offroad. Then bought the non e-brake calipers. They worked.

Looks like Greatlake has improved and they now have a whole kit you can buy..

Link to GreatLake Offroad product: Ford Dana 60 Full Disk Brake Kit




A-1 Cardone Part #184138, $41.79 and Part# 184139, $41.79
I would avoid these calipers to be honest. After countless hours of research, I came to the conclusion that it's not worth it.

So many countless threads saying "it works great" without pictures, any follow-up, nothing...

If you do end up doing this conversion, post up a detailed thread with lots of pictures and lots of info.

Nobody else has really been able to do that yet it seems.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 08:57 AM
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I just picked up NWF transfer /case rotor brake,Ill post some picks once its installed,,,np205 manual trans
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 09:04 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by lafermedavid
I just picked up NWF transfer /case rotor brake,Ill post some picks once its installed,,,np205 manual trans
A thread on this would be great as well.

I've read some good things about the NP205 e-brake, but it also has it's downfalls.

On my build, I am going to continue to search for an option to have an e-brake mounted in roughly the stock location.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron-71
I would avoid these calipers to be honest. After countless hours of research, I came to the conclusion that it's not worth it.

So many countless threads saying "it works great" without pictures, any follow-up, nothing...

If you do end up doing this conversion, post up a detailed thread with lots of pictures and lots of info.

Nobody else has really been able to do that yet it seems.
I just spent 1 hour reading all sorts of bad reviews on the caddy caliper e-brake option.. I think now I will skip this and just go for the transfer case brake option. I have been running the non-ebrake calipers for years, but I have also gone with an e-brake.. Also, see my photo.. as you can see, my caliper are up high, so brake cables would be a mess..

The gear reduction force advantage allows some powerful e-brake power when stopping at the t-case.

 
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Old Jan 27, 2017 | 08:16 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by highway90
I just spent 1 hour reading all sorts of bad reviews on the caddy caliper e-brake option..
Were most of them written by me? LOL.

I wish I would have bought the caddy calipers, installed them, and then wrote up a massive review on them to help prevent others from going down that road.

Having to adjust your e-brake cables every X kms just seems like a chore nobody should ever have to do.


Originally Posted by highway90
I think now I will skip this and just go for the transfer case brake option. I have been running the non-ebrake calipers for years, but I have also gone with an e-brake.. Also, see my photo.. as you can see, my caliper are up high, so brake cables would be a mess..

The gear reduction force advantage allows some powerful e-brake power when stopping at the t-case.
Post a detailed write-up!!!

My caliper upgrade is the exact same. High mount on the rear side.

Unless you live in the mountains or tow a lot, e-brakes aren't really needed (except for you US guys who have inspections to license).

Careful with the t-case brake tho too. One good kick/bump of the t-case shifter (N) and you'll see your rig roll down a hill in short order.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 08:42 AM
  #14  
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A transfercase brake hold the driveshaft behind the t-case so it shouldn't matter if it is in gear or neutral. Should still hold fine.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 08:51 AM
  #15  
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I have a Tcase mounted driveline E brake on my '97 F-Superduty Quigley....................Quigley welded the mount on to the TC housing to utilize the OEM
F-Superduty park brake......it works good.....
 
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