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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

1971 auto choke

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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 08:28 AM
  #1  
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From: gowen mi
1971 auto choke

were auto chokes on all 71/72? what are your thoughts on the auto choke? my 71 f250 was converted back to a manual choke, would like feedback on past experiences, thanks
dave
michigan
 
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 09:17 AM
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From: Barre Mass
I'm not sure if there were still manual chokes on the 71/72 model years. My 71 302 has an electric choke. There were also heat riser chokes that used hot air from the exhaust manifold. Manual chokes work great. They are almost a thing of the past much like a carburetor.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 09:24 AM
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From: gowen mi
thanks, never new they went to auto choke in 71, looked through my 71 manual to see where the choke was and couldn't find it, lol, the guy i bought the 71 from put a manual choke in the wiper switch hole and the wiper switch is hanging down below, would anyone suggest going back to auto choke?

dave
 
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 10:05 AM
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From: Barre Mass
You'll need to check out the choke housing to see what was removed from it if it was change to a manual choke. Hooking up an electric choke is straight forward not hard. You might get lucky and find the wire is still in the engine bay. If not the hook up to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid.


If you buy an electric choke make sure you know its operating voltage. I think the original electric chokes were set up for 7V or something like that. New one most likely be wanting 12V . Just read the instructions that come with the kit so it work right.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 10:32 AM
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Been there. PO had put in a manual choke and mounted it on the kick panel area. In order to work he made changes to the choke lever on the inside of the choke housing. You can replace the heat riser tubes with a kit from NAPA and a couple of other places. As far as the choke, you may have to buy a parts carb or contact Mikes Carbs and they usually have the parts from old ones to rebuild it. I was lucky to purchase a rebuilt carb from another member here and just swap the carbs out. I went back as the manual choke cable was old and kinked. It would not hold position and I was losing power due to it. You can also go to an electric choke to eliminate both problems. Those can be bought online and at parts stores.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 10:35 AM
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From: gowen mi
great info, thanks
 
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 12:44 PM
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Yes there were auto chokes even before 71, but they were operated by heat from the exhaust, not electric, at that time. If you are going back to auto choke, I recommend going electric.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 01:08 PM
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I do not think they had manual choke option anymore in 71 but I may be wrong, but if you know how to, and can get the automatic choke working properly then it is really nice to have a properly working auto choke. No hassle.

Dan
 
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 08:43 PM
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I am a real fan of the electric choke, with a brain. I got mine from NAPA about 10-15 years ago, and it is still working. It is the three-wire version. Now they have a one-wire version, that just controls the ground. These are sensitive to intake manifold temperature, so they work better than all the rest. Even hot-starts are factored in. It goes under an intake manifold bolt.

Holley carries them, and Summit has these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-45-267


Holly, Borg-Warner, and NAPA all had something similar to this. Choke control that bolts to the intake manifold. Provides a 'brain' in the ground wire from an electric Choke.

What I want to know, is if the three-wire versions are still available. I would think that some monitoring of the input volts (supply) would be useful. Then again, simplicity is golden.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 1972-34ton
I am a real fan of the electric choke, with a brain. I got mine from NAPA about 10-15 years ago, and it is still working. It is the three-wire version. Now they have a one-wire version, that just controls the ground. These are sensitive to intake manifold temperature, so they work better than all the rest. Even hot-starts are factored in. It goes under an intake manifold bolt.

Holley carries them, and Summit has these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-45-267


Holly, Borg-Warner, and NAPA all had something similar to this. Choke control that bolts to the intake manifold. Provides a 'brain' in the ground wire from an electric Choke.

What I want to know, is if the three-wire versions are still available. I would think that some monitoring of the input volts (supply) would be useful. Then again, simplicity is golden.
I'm curious about this part. I have never heard of it. Looks like a good idea.I've been fighting my electric choke on my Holley street avenger. Wonder if this would help the choke work more consistent? By the way sorry for the thread hijacking. I'll stop now
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 07:39 AM
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What that does is regulate how quickly the electric choke will open based on intake manifold temp. Normally the electric choke will open in roughly the same amount of time every time, no matter the ambient temp. Electric chokes were originally brought in because manufacturers needed the choke to open quickly for emissions purposes. This part here seeks to slow it down a bit. Here in Texas it is not needed, but I can see where it could be handy in colder climates.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 07:41 AM
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From: gowen mi
ah, going to order one today
thanks all for the education
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 07:41 AM
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I might add that if that part controls the ground, then it would not work on Motorcraft electric chokes as they do not have a ground terminal. This would be for a choke coil that has a separate ground terminal like on a Holley or Edelbrock carb.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 07:43 AM
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From: gowen mi
good to know, thanks again, need to get my wiper switch back into normal hole and get rid of choke that was moved there
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Justin73supercamper
I'm curious about this part. I have never heard of it. Looks like a good idea.I've been fighting my electric choke on my Holley street avenger. Wonder if this would help the choke work more consistent? By the way sorry for the thread hijacking. I'll stop now
You are prolly having trouble with that choke because it wants 12V. Not 6-8V that the factory wire supplies. If you are using the factory choke wire, the choke will take a long time to unload.
 
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