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Here's where we are.... After combing through posts I realized that the removal of the '66 grill off of my '65 Slick was not going to be an easy thing to do. Through sheer determination, a cutting wheel, and a good set of drill bits I finally got the darn thing off!!!
Now comes the problem, after I'm done sanding and painting I'll eventually want to put it back on. As you probably know there was a lot of spinning nuts that I assume had been welded on 52 years ago.
Is there a solution to this that will not require more welding? The main two that concern me are the two at bottom center that also connected the two arms that run from the hood mechanism down to the radiator support.
Please forgive any errors in my description, I've been learning as I go since October when I got the truck.
It's been several years since I did it, but I seem to remember that I did the grille and gravel pan together as an assembly, off the truck, and probably the two bolts of the hood latch assembly at the bottom as well, and then mounted the whole assembly into the grille opening. So to do it the way I'm describing, you'll have to remove the gravel pan from your truck and then attach the grille bottom to it. Does that make any sense? Good luck!
My attempt to explain is probly worse than U's description?
With the bumper removed, I found the major pain in the backside was securing the bottom of the grille to the splash pan, so I attached to the splash pan to the grille then installing both as a unit. Installed the 'J' and/or 'U' nuts to the pan, the bolts/screws securing the grille to the splash pan are accessible. Once the grille is secured, not too tight for minor adjustment, I then installed the grille support bracket, should be an opening on the back of the radiator support where I used a 1/4" socket to attach the bracket at the top, seem to recall attaching the bottom of the bracket at the base was relatively easier, suggest replace the castle nuts, or clean and tap beforehand.
Looking forward to other member's input as to how they went about it?
When I removed the grille in my '65, I also removed the upper and lower panels separately. Doing it this way was a study in futility!
So when I replaced the old grille with a new grille, I bolted it to the upper grille panel (8190) and lower valance panel (17A862), then installed it as an assembly.
Thanks for the replies. I fly home Thursday night and plan on spending all day Friday with the truck. I'll get some more pics too as I have a couple questions that are pointless to ask without a good example.
Here is what I've done with both bumpers ....
I plan on doing the same to my grill, although I don't think it'll be as easy to get it stripped down as far as I did the bumpers. I may have gotten carried away and not needed to go all the way to bare metal but it was my first big painting project and I was excited!! Any suggestions or techniques for sand and paint on the grill would be greatly appreciated. Those bumpers came out good I think but the journey there was a long one!!
I'm planning the same project in the not-so-distant future. Here's some advice I got from forum member TripleFrame:
Black trim paint was used on all standard '61-'66 F 100 pickups grills, as well as radiator supports. This allows the grill pattern to "float". Sales literature rarely show standard model pickups, so a medium duty ad will have to do. 1965 Ford Medium Duty Truck Brochure 16202-5AN2GV Note how the black trim paint continuously surrounds grill. Also area behind headlight buckets are black(not seen when buckets are installed). Whimbledon White was used on '64 -'66 F 100 pickups for standard grills, and bumpers, except if truck was painted a special order fleet color or pure white (bright white).
Wouldn't you know it.. Got up this morning around 0645 all excited to get the boy on the bus headed for school and get started on the grill install. And it's raining like a horse pi$$ing on a flat rock outside!!
I'm going to rise above though just swept out the garage about to pull her in and get going. Will update soon.
Looks awesome. That's how I feel about mine, she may be a 10 to 20 foot paint job, but it gets the job done for me. Enjoy it, and don't be afraid to use it.
Yep, that does look good. I managed to scratch my bumper a month after I pulled it out the Paint Shop. I was mad, but no fun having a Slick if you don't drive it, just like Bob says!
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Need Ideas : Grill Reinstall
Slick was not going to be an easy thing to do. Through sheer determination, a cutting wheel, and a good set of drill bits I finally got the darn thing off!!!
Tomorrow the grill and all four bezels should be ready to install. I'm pumped and will up date on whether it ends in success or another day needed.. 
!!
