When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am working on a 49 F1 226 has fuel and spark but wont start.
Ran a compression test highest cylinder 32 lbs lowest 5. Dows anyone know what it should be? I know its like within 5% but it has to be around at least 90 to 100 lbs correct?
A healthy engine compression will run around 100 psi. With those numbers, I would SWAG it will never start. What is the immediate known history of the engine?
The 226 in my '49 pictured below had been sitting outside for 48 years and I got it to start. Posted the video on here last spring.
The compression was low (but not 5 pounds, ouch) and after I ran it all cylinders were over 110. The valves had been stuck, that's all.
Before doing anything to it I poured Marvel Mystery Oil down the cylinders and let it sit for more than a week. Then with ignition off I cranked it for a while to build up oil pressure. When oil came out of the sending unit hole I screwed it back in and added spark. I used just a small amount of gas poured down the carb.
Here is the thread and a video.
I think the book calls for 110 psig @ 100 r/m. Sounds to me like you have stuck valves AND stuck rings. You can check for bad rings by squirting some engine oil into the cylinders and re-taking the compression test. You can also perform a leak-down test on each cylinder and keep an ear to the carburetor, the road draft tube, and the exhaust pipe.
I took an engine apart and the piston rings were sieve to the pistons, so no compression. I agree that if you think the engine was running before it was parked, then a good soaking with kerosene or Marvel might free things up.
Make sure when you try and start it, that you wait until after dark. 'Cause if it fires up with all that Marvel Mystery Oil, you'll smoke out the neighborhood.
Also, if it does start, if might quit after a few minutes due to fouled plugs. I used Marvel on an old flat head and I bet I had to clean the plugs about 10 times before it finally started firing on all cylinders.
Just wondering about the quality of your compression tester ,many of them are not accurate at all other than showing the variance between cylinders .I worked in a large shop with 26 mechanics on the floor ,we did a test between our compression testers and many of them were out by 30-40 lbs and a few were 60 lbs out of whack .If it's not a better quality unit ,it's probably best to just use it as a guide .The guys with the 60 pound units sold the most engine jobs ,and until we finally checked into their gauges ,they were always selling engines .
May just be corroded around your valves allowing large amounts of air past. Our engine was doing this. Reseated the valves and you should find better numbers
Thanks all. I brought my compression tester in a older craftsman back when they made good tools. Here are the results. I number cylinders front to back not by firing order.
1st with oil added
#1 45lb 60lb
#2 55lb 65lb
#3 50lb 60lb
#4 28lb 45lb
#5 22lb 25lb
#6 30lb 32lb
what I was told about truck. it ran 8 months ago. I so no. The gas in tank was so putrid
had to be several years old. How much mystery oil should I put in each cylinder ?
Also I used an inspection camera to look into each cylinder while cranking. Everything was moving freely.
Thanks all. I brought my compression tester in a older craftsman back when they made good tools. Here are the results. I number cylinders front to back not by firing order.
1st with oil added
#1 45lb 60lb
#2 55lb 65lb
#3 50lb 60lb
#4 28lb 45lb
#5 22lb 25lb
#6 30lb 32lb
what I was told about truck. it ran 8 months ago. I so no. The gas in tank was so putrid
had to be several years old. How much mystery oil should I put in each cylinder ?
Also I used an inspection camera to look into each cylinder while cranking. Everything was moving freely.
I would put two - three tablespoons down each hole. You can also crank that puppy with 12 volts to bring up the compression and get it started for the first time.
Probably should add that you need to leave the plugs out before turning over after the soaking. This way you will not hydraulic lock the motor and bend anything.
It wouldn't hurt to put in a bit more, just remember to change your oil once everything is running and warmed up.
Here's the situation I had with my 226 in my F-2 a few years ago. I had it running early in the summer but got busy and hadn't driven it for a little over a month. It ran fine but is an old engine with low compression. I went to start it and it wouldn't start. I replaced everything in the ignition system even though I had a good spark. It had gas. I gave up and posted here about the problem, willing to sell my most prized possession for the price of scrap. A couple of local FTE members came over to help out. One had the great idea to try to pull start it to make the engine spin fast enough to overcome the low compression. I tried jumping with 12 volts but that didn't work. We hooked the F-2 behind my daily driver and pulled it for about 20 feet, popped the clutch and it kicked over. I left it run for about 15 minutes to get the engine warm and for the rings to loosen and expand. From that point on I've never had trouble with it starting, even after letting it sit through 2-3 winters.
One trick that used to be employed was feeding Bon Ami (and only Bon Ami) cleanser down the carb to remove cylinder glazing, a kind of honing almost. This can bring up compression.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.