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If you have problems with short wires from the upfitter switch or just want more room to work with them the relay box can be unclipped from the inner fender.
Just unclip from the inner fender if more work space is needed.
When you say "unclip" how is it held to the fender? I did a little tugging upward and the relay box seemed tightly held to the fender. Didn't want to break/crack the plastic just using brute force. Thx
So I think I am understanding your post correctly, for any powered add ons inside the cab they make you run a jumper wire from a load side (upfitter output) wire under the hood and across the truck to these pass through wires? it seems "kind" of hokey of them to do that.
They could have easily added the wire to have the load / output wires in both locations (inside cab and underhood) and then up to the user to designate which gets used for which.
Thanks for the explanation. Very helpful.
Agree, very helpful. I have been completely stymied by this seemingly simple upfitter switch thing. I agree Ford took what could have been a great idea, over-complicated it, hid the wires, made the wires too short, then failed to provide documentation for the average guy to follow. I thought I had found the upfitter output wires in the engine compartment, when all I really found were the pass-throughs. Hope to locate the outputs once I figure out how to unclip the relay box to find the bundle Ford conveniently hid below it. Sheesh
I think it has a little tab that needs to be depressed I can go look at mine in a minute. Actually in the 6th post you can see the 2 tabs that need to be depressed.
I think it has a little tab that needs to be depressed I can go look at mine in a minute. Actually in the 6th post you can see the 2 tabs that need to be depressed.
Unfortunately mine is a different design. Yes you're right about the tabs, but mine is jammed in a narrow area between the master cylinder and fender. The only way to get to one of the tabs is with a butter knife. After 20 minutes of trial and error I managed to use two butter knives to depress the two aft tabs (jamming the knives in so the unit wouldn't slip back down and lock in place, which it did several times). I then did the two front and had the box free, only to discover it would take multiple bundle disconnects and probably removal of the coolant recovery tank to move the relay box enough to gain access underneath. I abandoned that effort after about 45 minutes.
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