Okay, I'm finally going to start a thread on my woes with "The King"...

I bought the truck running rough for half of it's value. The used car dealer I bought it from had his nephew who owns a "shop" (Who knows nothing about 6.0L's as far as I'm concerned...) replace the following; all eight injectors, (BWD Advance specials ) HPOP, (A used one with unknown miles. They said it was new. Yeah, new to my truck... At least it has the updated STC fitting.) EGR delete, (Like that will fix it's particular rough running condition...) and last but not least, they changed the turbo to an '03 turbo... Also allegedly "new"...

So that's what they did. I did even more (After performing contribution, compression and what not tests...)

Here's a list of what I replaced initially:
All eight injectors again but with OEM.
Head studs with OEM gaskets. (I figured why not, might as well...)
Updated OEM dummy plugs and standpipes.
Updated OEM turbo supply and drain. (Fifty percent of the oil supply was blocked by silicone. More on that later...)
New FICM. (I swapped it from my other truck that I'm selling and ran great with...)
Updated OEM fuel regulator. (Blue Spring)
5W40 T6 oil change with OEM filter.
Both OEM fuel filters.
Young Motorcraft batteries. (Swapped few month old batteries from other truck.)

Latest Endevour:
IPR
OEM ICP and plug.
Injector harness. (Quite frankly I didn't think that was the problem, but that's what he said so I figured what the heck...)
Coolant filter. (For the heck of it... Obviously not causing my problem.)

Well after all that... I gained an exhaust leak either on one of the up pipe to manifold connections, or one of the bellows decided to start leaking. And, obviously it still runs like a POS... I'm beyond infuriated with this truck that was suppose to be an easy fix.

Here's the story on the silicone... I call the nephew that worked on this poor truck; Dingus, "The Silicone King", or Dingus for short. This moron put that stuff on everything, instead of replacing gaskets and o-rings... Not to mention he stripped out at least seven valve cover bolts, among other hardware missing. I even found silicone on one of the injectors and inside the injector cup. I want to rearrange this guy's face!

Anyway, as one can tell I've about had enough of this truck and saying; "Dingus strikes again!" I'm about to order a scan tool for IDS to recheck HPO PSI and what not. If you guys have any suggestions that would be great.

 

Running like crap... It would be good to know ICP, IPR %, Fuel pressure, FICM logic voltage, VGT %, clean EBP tube and sensor, and are there any codes?

 

I'll have to recheck all that. I know the old FICM was producing 48V, but I don't remember what the supply was. The old ICP was showing 1,000 some PSI at idle. Not to mention it had an early ICP sensor in it before I replaced it... I didn't think to pop off the EBPS and check / clean it. I'll do that when I get a chance.

As for codes, it originally had cylinder three and seven contribution codes. A contribution test confirmed that as well. That's one of the reasons I replaced all eight. After the initial work it took forever to fire up, when it finally did it took forever to smooth out. But it did have a reasonably smooth idle, but at higher RPM it would fluctuate and wouldn't hold steady. Then went back to loping, smoking and running horrible after idling for fifteen minutes or so. It also eventually threw CMP and CKP codes. But a lot of times that's caused by extended cranking, so I ignored them for the time being...

I lost my cheap OBD II reader in another 6.0L, I was checking codes when considering buying it. So I'll have to wait till the scanner for IDS comes in to check everything.

Another issue it seems this truck has, is a parasitic loss. Even with these young batteries, they didn't have much power left in them when I went to test start it today. I'm starting to wonder if it may be related some how...

 

It may be that all that startup cranking to purge the air out of the system damaged the logic board of the FICM. You could rule this in or out easily enough if you had another 6.0 you could pop this FICM into.

Hope this helps!

www.ficmrepair.com ftw!!

Ed

 

10-4, we'll stand by for the results of the vitals from the scanner. BTW, I recently learned the hard way, it's important that the tune is stock for the numbers to be meaningful.

On the parasitic loss thing, you can disconnect the ground on both batteries and then put an ammeter between one ground cable and one battery and see how many amps it pulls sitting there. I don't know the proper spec off the top of my head but it should be low... like not even half an amp low. If you have anything like phone chargers installed in cigarette outlets take those out first. If you find an abnormally high draw, you can remove fuses until you find the culprit circuit. Sorry if you know all this already.

 

I do have another 6.0L that I'm selling. So if I wanted to I could swap them, but that's just more work. I'd rather wait and plug into it and see what it's doing the easy way...


As far as I know the truck should still be a virgin... I haven't done any flashing, yet... It still runs just as bad if not worse it seems then when I first bought the truck... I have never experienced this truck ever running perfectly... Except for that short time idling after the initial work, which was decent.

Yeah, there is a decent little arc when reconnecting the batteries. Of course there's suppose to be one, but not that epic sounding... Thanks for "re-clarifying" what I need to do to find it. I think parasitic loss, then think of the umpteen circuits and tons of wires on this truck and die... Haha...

 

I so appreciate easy, but conventional scanners don't show logic board issues. Swapping into another truck, however, would. Hope this helps!

 

I agree with what you said, but I'll be using 's IDS...

 

It may be the cam position sensor or crank position sensor. I had a similar problem (it would idle/run good for a short time than start missing/chugging puff black smoke that smelled like burnt plastic) I changed both sensors and solved the problem (not sure which one was bad...no codes). I have to admit there was a little luck involved though.

 

You may be onto something there. Mine doesn't pump out black smoke, it's grey and doesn't smell like plastic haha... But, it did eventually throw codes before for the CMP and CKP. Those are the only two things I have yet to replace. But before I throw parts at it, I would like to know what my HPOS is doing first...