Well, get the engine running sound, then the drivetrain takes a crap on me. . . On my way home, about 60mph. Hear a noise from front drivers side. Gets to the point where I think Im losing a tire. Got out and checked the lugs, all clear. Got back in and the truck wouldnt move. Shifted thru all the gears, nothing. Revved up to 1500rpm and it just sits there and shakes, like it wants to go but cant. No grinding or anything. Got a tow truck and as we were loading it, noticed that the front axle was rolling fine, but the rear was dragging. Tried it in N and D and it still wasnt rolling. Also observed drips on the flatbed and the drainplug on the transfer case was wet.

Praying that it is transmission, cuz I can just have them come get it and have it repaired under warranty. Heck its only got about 3500 miles on it.

If its the transfer case or the rear axle Im in the hole for a lot of $$.

Anyone had this before? Any ideas on what to check? Ill be spending the rest of my evening on YT/Google. . .

(Figured this was the right area to post this, cuz its a 99 7.3, I didnt see a dedicated drivetrain area so. . . )

 

I really doubt it is the axle. Ford 10.5 axles are notoriously reliable and sturdy. You would have had some auditory warning before the axle went unless off-roading and abusing it. Very likely your transmission since it is doing nothing in all gears. If the tranny is locked up, then that would account for the rear axle dragging. Pull your drain plug on the tranny and check for metal on the magnet, or just drain it and drop the pan and have a look. Not hard to do at all.

 

If the transfer case is in neutral, does it still bind?

If so, then drop the rear driveshaft and see if that frees up the rear wheels.

If that doesn't free them up, pull the axle shafts and see if that frees them up.

Safety warning: Don't do this on a hill. Don't do this without chocking the wheels so you don't run over yourself when dropping the driveshaft or pulling the axle shafts.

 

Thanks for the info!

Im not following the first part. Transfer case in neutral. As in disengaged? I do not have the means to switch it into 4wd as the motor that bolts to the case is not there. I have a new one but I have to get bolts.

Planning to put the rear axle on stands and disconnect the driveshaft as well as check the transmission depending on what the deal with the rear is. Crossing my fingers for transmission haha

 

The transfer case in my truck has 4hi, 2hi, neutral, and 4lo. I have the manual lever on the floor.

 

I have the switch on the dash. So its just 2wd 4hi 4lo. Its either on or off.

I started to pull the driveshaft off, somebody cranked that sucker DOWN. I broke 2 sockets and stripped a bolt. . . Im thinking I will just drain the trans and check that cuz I pulled the magnet from the rear diff and there was hardly any shavings. I know that doesnt eliminate it because Id hate to pull the axle and find it intact. I need to do a fluid drain on the trans anyhow. . .

Anyone have any favorite methods for getting stripped bolt heads out? Maybe if I heated it up and got some vice grips on it.

 

Are you enjoying Ford's 8mm head driveshaft bolts? ;-) I would heat the flange with a torch and use vise-grips, as you suggested. Mine were stunningly tight and hard to access.

 

No. Not really. Youd think they would put something of higher quality metal in. . .

Kind of a bind. Its really, really windy out. And cuz of the size of my truck on the flatbed we had to drop it outside instead of in the shop. And its raining. Ive got some stuff set up as kind of a wind block but getting the torch adjusted is a PAIN. Also cannot track down a pair of large vice grips that I know I just used. . . Its gonna be a long night -_-

Definitely going to order new bolts. Something that will hold up. . .

 

I dont think vice grips is going to work. Not enough room to get onto the bolt head, or whats left of it. Its really just rounded off. Wish I had heated it before I started cranking on it. But the front shaft was really easy to get off. . . I thought of using a grinder, but then Im not 100% sure Id have enough threads sticking thru to get ahold of and get out. . . GRRRRRRRRRRRR

 

I bought a set of these years ago and they have saved my *** several times.

Sears.com

Of course you don't have to go to Sears, but this will give you an idea for your situation.

EDIT: Also I laughed a bit when I saw you were hoping for the failure point to be the transmission. I believe this is the first time I have seen those words written by someone on a mechanical forum. Usually it is the opposite...

Keep us posted, and good luck to you.

 

Hey thanks. At least Im good for a laugh.

Going to check and see about the brakes locking up. Since the MC is right by the drivers seat and thats the general area I heard the noise from

 

Ok, bled the rear brakes just to rule that out. Started it up and tried to move. I can feel the trans shifting, and the shaft was trying to turn the diff, so unfortunatly I do not believe that is the issue.
Seems to be something in the rear pumpkin, since both wheels are locked up. If I was broke and couldnt afford a trans you know thats what would be out. . . but I got a warranty on the sucker. . .

I guess Im gonna have to pull the cover off and see. Sucks tho I just filled it a couple months ago with Royal Purple, stuff is expensive! Maybe Ill catch it and strain it and put it back in haha. I cannot understand it tho, Ive driven a suburban that had the rear diff go out, and I could hear it big time. Jolted, and it still drove about 1-2 MPH home, that was a long ride. But for this one to just drop without any warning or sound? IDK Im at a loss.

Also not sure if I mentioned it or not but I did check the fluid level, that was fine. And there wasnt anything worth noting on the magnet (rear diff)
Here is a video to show ya what its doing. . .

 

You really need to drop that shaft before any conclusions are drawn. Are the bolts that are sheeeit the forward behind the trans or the diff joint bolts?

Can you weld a piece of metal to the bolt/bolts that won't run out and just use that as a breaker bar and sacrifice them.

Me being me, I would try that first. If it failed, I would grind the head/heads and at least get the shaft off so I could see if it were in fact the axle and nothing forward.

If you succeed and it is in fact the axle, don't worry about getting the bolts out. Junk the rear and get another from a yard or drive up here and get the 3.73 known good axle I took off my same year truck. (Just needs a new yolk/or your old one).

I'll be running down to Grand Rapids Michigan in a week or two. Should put us within a few hours of each other.

Let us know how this goes.

Denny

 

Just reread your posts, been along day snowplowing and mine is now inop due to electrical.

So, if you put the *** up on jackstands, chock front tires, key on, trans in neutral, can you spin the rear wheels?? Front hubs unlocked of course.

Wondering

 

Yeah that would work if I had a way to weld. I could probably get one over here if I had to. I will probably just either buy that extractor Sous linked or drill it out or something. But I will make sure of the condition of the axle before I mess with them. . . The bolts are where it sits on the diff.


So yours is down as well?

I am trying to get the rear jacked up. Having issues getting the shaft off. Hopefully I get something going tomorrow