I got this set a while back, you can get same day shipping with Amazon Prime https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-BOLT-GR.../dp/B000QW6K8I

Did you try a sharp cold chisel to try and get it started?

 

you mean chisel at the bolt?

 

Yes,
On the side of the head, chisel in the direction that will spin the bolt out. An air chisel is even more effective if you have access to one.

 

You asked for favorite method of bolt removal, mine is using the gas wrench, aka OXY acetylene. If you YouTube OXY acetylene broken bolt removal there are probably some good videos out there. Done right it will leave the threads of the shaft in really good shape. And you don't need the torch skills of a WWII ship builder to make it work right.

Also I have one of each type of transfer case. I've only ever had problems with the in the floor type so I have no idea what the e shift one looks like. The floor style often breaks in the linkage, when it's broken you can still shift the truck by grabbing the fork in the t case from under the truck. I don't know if they're similar or not. Just hoping for you as you said the shift motor isn't installed.

On a side note I've purchased two parts trucks from people who had broken linkages. They both payed to have their truck towed home. And parked it until I came around years later. I bought them for $500 each, crawled under the truck for a minute, started them, and drove right onto my flat bed. Both PO's were PO'd that they didn't ask for more. Also, I didn't low ball them. $500 is where the negotiations started.

 

I can try. But i doubt that will work, the heads are pretty worn down. Plus there isnt much room.

OK, looked at some videos. Looks effective, but im not sure i have a big eough system. I currently just use the little bottles you can get at Ace just if I need something to get hotter than propane. I plan to get a bigger system eventually. I doubt I have enough gas to get all the way thru.

Like you say, really doubting the TC has anything to do with the issue, but i wont know till I get the rear end loose.

Thats an awesome deal, did you keep em or sell them?

Just so I can double check, which way do I turn the hubs to disengage? I dont have a manual and I have never had manual hubs.

 

Remember clock-lock. So turning clockwise will lock them, counterclockwise will unlock them.

 

Ah crap for real? Im 90% sure my drivers side is locked in then. . . That doesnt make sense, I would think the front would be locked up then. Unless it screwed the TC and that caused the rear to lock up. IDK. Ive got a couple hours here to mess with it Ill let you guys know what I find. . .

 

Yes, that is the only way I have remembered it for years. We are waiting to hear what you find out.

 

I kept both of the trucks. Gave one of them to a buddy and he used nearly all of it to do a powerstroke swap into an IDI. The other is still waiting for me to swap the zf 5 out of and into my 89 idi. Don't know what I'm going to do with the motor on that one, maybe I'll make a huge snowblower.

As long as the u joints are good in the front, it shouldn't hurt anything to drive it with the hub's locked, unless the t case is stuck in four.

 

Ah sweet deal.

THEY WERENT LOCKED!!!

was kinda worried about it. But the reason I thought they were is cuz I tried turning them when I was waiting for a tow truck. But they were not locked, I had to turn them clockwise so thats all good.

Got the shaft off, just took a cutoff wheel and went crazy, as the little U piece will be replaced with the bolts, so I got that off, and I got about 1/4 inch or less left to try to grab with vice grips. Or I can drill it. Came inside to get the air jack so Im gonna go jack it up

 

Alright. The drivers side rear spins freely. But the passenger side wont budge. So, correct me if I am wrong; but my thought process is - Something crapped out either inside that hub or inside that side of the axle, and is locking up the diff, which results in the drivers side locking up? I guess I will pull the cover and see what I can tell. But Im guessing Ill have to pull the axle. Any advice on that? I know how to get it off, but moving that sucker around. . . If I have to rebuild, Id like to have it on the shop bench with heat and light haha. My boss has these hand forks for moving pallets around, maybe Ill see if I can snag that for a weekend.

Now I may be getting ahead of myself, but what else should I knock out while Im in here? I might as well rebuild the whole rear right? I mean its off and open. Had thought about high torque gears, or some other ratio rather than stock. I may go ahead and get new leaf springs as the drivers side is sagging a bit.

 

Is it for sure not the passenger side brake locked up tight? If you haven't yet, you might check that first.

 

I'd pull the passenger side axle shaft.

 

If you have a dolly of any sort to put under it you can move it around with your 4WD engaged since you have the rear drive shaft out. You might even be able to drag it into the garage on that frozen wheel.

 

I know you bled the rear brakes calipers free, ruling out the service brakes... but did you check the drum in hat parking brake?

The separate shoes inside the hat of the rotor are obviously mechanically actuated. If a shoe dislodged and somehow wedged itself in some way creating a bind, you will only see that by removing the caliper, anchor plate, and the entire rotor itself.

Not necessarily a high probability, but at least it is a possibility... that if true, might save you a boat load of money. A new rotor and parking brake shoes are cheaper than a rear diff rebuild. Something to hope for, I guess, at least until you get to that part of your tear down.