Originally Posted by Y2KW57

Consider carefully what every 6.7L owner who has posted thus far has said.

1. They bought brand new. You are buying used.

2. They're still under the original factory bumper to bumper warranty. You won't be. If you get a warranty, other than the transferable remainder of the diesel engine warranty, it could very well be through an insurance plan that is cleverly disguised as a warranty, and riddled with loopholes that won't cover fixing the things that actually break, because the underwriters DO know the problems.

3. They haven't accrued enough miles for problems to surface. You will be starting off after the problems already appeared and scared the previous owner into a trade. Case in point:



See what I mean?

4. They have skin in the game. Any negative forum or searchable social media post about a 6.7 is a cumulative hit that can potentially lower the archived perception of resale value. A high perception of resale value is in any and every 6.7L owner's best interest to maintain and preserve, so they can fall back again to #3... get out of it before something really expensive goes wrong, without going too far upside down in the trade.

So if you really want to find out the known problems with any given vehicle, regardless of the powerplant or the name brand, then

A. Seek out owners who have bought used, not new.

B. Ask this question on the forums of the competitive brands... in order to find the frustrated refugees from the brand you are interested in. Their wounds are yet fresh, and they are still in the mode to warn the world about how they got royally skewered. It doesn't matter if the grass isn't any greener in the field they escaped to. All that matters is what went wrong with the Fields (haha) they ran from... and their tale of woe can help you be better prepared to assess what you might be getting into, which is the foundation of your question. You might not get that kind of brutal frankness on the friendly fan club site of the brand you are interested in.

C. However, the friendly fan club sites will have more knowledge about the quirks and fixes of the brand that you are interested in than any other consumer accessible resource, so FTE is the right place to be. But to make the best use of the treasure trove of info here, it will have to be searched for, rather than just asked. Terms to search for? See D...

D. Back to that warranty. Read it. Every. Single. Word. Pay particular attention to the fine print that details what isn't covered (not wipers and oil, but hard parts), and re write those terms in your own handwriting in larger print that you can read. Those are the known problems that warranty providers, including Ford's ESP program, already know they would be guaranteed to lose money if they covered them. Hence, those are your search terms.

As an example, specific to the 6.7L, search "High Pressure Fuel Pump."

E. Get some feedback from folks with more than 50,000 miles on their ODO. A mere 18,000 miles doesn't count. Heck, 18K is barely half way through the original bumper to bumper warranty. All the no problem smiles at 6K miles? Not going to help you, when you are starting at 60K miles.

Another 6.7 specific example: Not a week goes by that I don't read of another 6.7 owner needing a new radiator, at the cost of $2,000. But I've never read of a single instance of a 6.7L radiator failure that happened in fewer than 40,000 miles. Yet the forums are full of crys for Crystal (a former Ford Service ombudsman) to get a discount off that $2K radiator bill. It happens so often, it is practically a given that between 40K to 80K miles, the radiator will leak on the driver's side at the junction between core and tank. Same place, all the time, '11, '12, '13, '14, '15... still too soon to tell on the '16.

After all those years, you'd think the root cause of the problem would have been fixed by now, and maybe it has on the newly designed '17s. But since the problem generally only happens AFTER the bumper to bumper warranty expires, it's the customer's problem. Maybe that is why the fix was postponed until the design refresh, who knows? But the point is, interview owners who have accumulated at least the same number of miles that are on the used truck you are buying. Or over 50K miles. Whichever is greater.

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I don't have a 6.7L, so I'm not going to list all the problems I've consistently read about, because I haven't personally experienced them. Anything I mentioned above was merely to serve as an example of how to search for problems with any vehicle.

But there is one personal experience that I do have with respect to towing a gooseneck trailer using the Ford factory gooseneck hitch system in the bed. It relates to the safety chain hooks that click into the pucks.

The problem is, they can click out quite easily. If the chains to your gooseneck are of a certain length, or subjected to a certain strain, during a certain turn combined with a good bump or two on an unpaved road... the chain loop can pop out of the puck. The same is true on the Reese branded equivalents. I personally witnessed the ease with which these loops can release, and was able to replicate an all to easy removal by hand by giggling the chain loop. This was six years ago.

Since that time, other hitch companies like Curt have developed alternative (and patented, and arguably more secure) chain hook designs that click into the same Ford factory pucks. Since you specifically asked about any problems towing gooseneck trailers, I thought you'd find that observation useful, so you'll know to verify the security of the chain hooks yourself to suit your comfort level.