Good Evening,

I am looking to purchase a use F350 with a 6.7, 4x4, either DRW or SRW I am not sure which direction I will go. What I am wanting to know is are there any known issues with the 6.7 or Super Duties that I need to be on the lookout for? What I am referring to when I say known issues is how the 6.0 has a known issue with the oil cooler, does the 6.7 have any known issues? I am not saying the 6.7 has an oil cooler issue, I was just using that to refer to a known issue on the 6.0. Any issues with the transfer case, transmission, rear or front ends, towing capabilities with a 5th wheel or goose neck or anything else which might cause problems?

Thank you,
Jeff Johnson

 

The early 6.7's had issues with the Turbo, mainly the ceramic ball bearings in them grenadine the turbo, but I think they went to a different ball bearing a long way back now. There were some issues with valves in the early 11's, but I believe that has also been rectified. Other issue was sensor on the exhaust giving people grief but I think that was resolved too.

Are you looking for a new or used 6.7? The 6.7 has been a fairly reliable engine for most folks. I am sure some of the other fellas will chime in with their thoughts and give you some better input

 

other fella here.....granted I only have 5200 miles on my '16 dually but they have all been care free whether solo or towing my 5th wheel. If you're buying used make sure you can see the maintenence records for oil/filter and any repairs or upgrades that have been done. The 6.7 is a good engine but like anything mechanical if it isn't taken care of or abused ....well anything can happen.

 

I have 2700 miles on my 16 dually bought in November, it's a beast. Tows our fiver like a dream. Have had all three big brand trucks, think the F-350 is my favorite, and it's my first dually. You can still go every we're with it, just have to watch drive thru's, and park a little farther out.

 

I have 26,000 on my 15 6.7 and not one single problem I have towed my 5th wheel more than 12,000 so far and still no problem. I went with a SRW because the DRW's are so wide and don't fit in many parking lots. The DRW isnt that much more than a SRW and I hear that a DRW truck is more sure footed towing but my SRW is just fine with my 34 footer. I have the electronic locking rear which you cant get in a DRW. I also have 3.31 gears and the truck pulls just fine. As a matter of fact I have no problem accelerating going up any hill I have been on in my 12,000 mile trip. We took a 3 month trip across the USA last year. This year we are going to Maine for some lobster. LOL

 

2011 and I think some 12 6.7s are known for blowing around the 100k mark semi-regularly. Valves were made too brittle, they overheat in the regen cycle, end of the valve falls into motor and you now have an 18k dollar bill to pay.

As I have said before, if you can't pay cash for a diesel truck, don't buy it. The repair bills will eventually negate any fuel savings or time saved climbing a grade.

 

Hey sound advice ??????? Yea the earlier ones had some problems but the thousands and thousands of other 6.7's by far negate the issues of those. Also how many guys do you really think pay cash for a new truck? I didn't happen to have $70 just laying around for my '16 F350 KR dually, I did sell my old truck and was able to lay a good chunk down though. Not concerned about fuel savings or time saved climbing a hill, I wanted a newt ruck and this one I ordered fit the bill, that simple.

 

I have 44k on mine, no issues...as the others have said, it quite reliable. The only issues I have heard about were related to the emission stuff, mine is deleted.

 

He wasn't specifc about years so I gave him the info about the problems I'm aware of.
I'm glad you are enjoying your truck, and I hope you are putting some money aside to make repairs.
The fact no one pays cash for anything is why everyone's always broke, and people then come to the board with repair bills that can't pay. If I can stop one person from becoming slave to a lender for a material possesion, I feel good about that....and these trucks can put you in a bad spot real quick.

 

Sure Diesel owners want great MPG but nobody expects to have the mileage of a honda civic...lol. They buy the 6.7, 6.4., 6.0., 6.8, .6.2 Because they have the power and ability to pull a load. Dont think people are too naive about what they are getting into with owning a diesel, sure some dont think of the maitenance cost or what repairs could be if something major occurs but that can all be said in the same breadth with some owners of gas engine vehicles as well. so I agree with you

 

Take my money that is working for me at 6% return to pay cash,when I can use their money for 2%??? Does that make sense? Just asking.
And now, back to our regularly scheduled program!

 

I had some problems with my '15, which I believe started out as electronic gliches; traded it for a '16 and now have 18000 miles on it, trouble free.

 

Consider carefully what every 6.7L owner who has posted thus far has said.

1. They bought brand new. You are buying used.

2. They're still under the original factory bumper to bumper warranty. You won't be. If you get a warranty, other than the transferable remainder of the diesel engine warranty, it could very well be through an insurance plan that is cleverly disguised as a warranty, and riddled with loopholes that won't cover fixing the things that actually break, because the underwriters DO know the problems.

3. They haven't accrued enough miles for problems to surface. You will be starting off after the problems already appeared and scared the previous owner into a trade. Case in point:

See what I mean?

4. They have skin in the game. Any negative forum or searchable social media post about a 6.7 is a cumulative hit that can potentially lower the archived perception of resale value. A high perception of resale value is in any and every 6.7L owner's best interest to maintain and preserve, so they can fall back again to #3... get out of it before something really expensive goes wrong, without going too far upside down in the trade.

So if you really want to find out the known problems with any given vehicle, regardless of the powerplant or the name brand, then

A. Seek out owners who have bought used, not new.

B. Ask this question on the forums of the competitive brands... in order to find the frustrated refugees from the brand you are interested in. Their wounds are yet fresh, and they are still in the mode to warn the world about how they got royally skewered. It doesn't matter if the grass isn't any greener in the field they escaped to. All that matters is what went wrong with the Fields (haha) they ran from... and their tale of woe can help you be better prepared to assess what you might be getting into, which is the foundation of your question. You might not get that kind of brutal frankness on the friendly fan club site of the brand you are interested in.

C. However, the friendly fan club sites will have more knowledge about the quirks and fixes of the brand that you are interested in than any other consumer accessible resource, so FTE is the right place to be. But to make the best use of the treasure trove of info here, it will have to be searched for, rather than just asked. Terms to search for? See D...

D. Back to that warranty. Read it. Every. Single. Word. Pay particular attention to the fine print that details what isn't covered (not wipers and oil, but hard parts), and re write those terms in your own handwriting in larger print that you can read. Those are the known problems that warranty providers, including Ford's ESP program, already know they would be guaranteed to lose money if they covered them. Hence, those are your search terms.

As an example, specific to the 6.7L, search "High Pressure Fuel Pump."

E. Get some feedback from folks with more than 50,000 miles on their ODO. A mere 18,000 miles doesn't count. Heck, 18K is barely half way through the original bumper to bumper warranty. All the no problem smiles at 6K miles? Not going to help you, when you are starting at 60K miles.

Another 6.7 specific example: Not a week goes by that I don't read of another 6.7 owner needing a new radiator, at the cost of $2,000. But I've never read of a single instance of a 6.7L radiator failure that happened in fewer than 40,000 miles. Yet the forums are full of crys for Crystal (a former Ford Service ombudsman) to get a discount off that $2K radiator bill. It happens so often, it is practically a given that between 40K to 80K miles, the radiator will leak on the driver's side at the junction between core and tank. Same place, all the time, '11, '12, '13, '14, '15... still too soon to tell on the '16.

After all those years, you'd think the root cause of the problem would have been fixed by now, and maybe it has on the newly designed '17s. But since the problem generally only happens AFTER the bumper to bumper warranty expires, it's the customer's problem. Maybe that is why the fix was postponed until the design refresh, who knows? But the point is, interview owners who have accumulated at least the same number of miles that are on the used truck you are buying. Or over 50K miles. Whichever is greater.

____________

I don't have a 6.7L, so I'm not going to list all the problems I've consistently read about, because I haven't personally experienced them. Anything I mentioned above was merely to serve as an example of how to search for problems with any vehicle.

But there is one personal experience that I do have with respect to towing a gooseneck trailer using the Ford factory gooseneck hitch system in the bed. It relates to the safety chain hooks that click into the pucks.

The problem is, they can click out quite easily. If the chains to your gooseneck are of a certain length, or subjected to a certain strain, during a certain turn combined with a good bump or two on an unpaved road... the chain loop can pop out of the puck. The same is true on the Reese branded equivalents. I personally witnessed the ease with which these loops can release, and was able to replicate an all to easy removal by hand by giggling the chain loop. This was six years ago.

Since that time, other hitch companies like Curt have developed alternative (and patented, and arguably more secure) chain hook designs that click into the same Ford factory pucks. Since you specifically asked about any problems towing gooseneck trailers, I thought you'd find that observation useful, so you'll know to verify the security of the chain hooks yourself to suit your comfort level.

 

Autocorrect always makes me laugh!

I 'm pretty sure any Turbo would "grenade" if it was "grenadined" with red syrup!
I'll shut up now.

 

LOL Didn't even notice that...hmm kind of thirsty now