Mine stayed on for a few run cycles. I did not reset it, I just read it with my code reader. It went back out. I'll report back if/when it returns.

 

Seems like a common issue. I am dealing with the same thing at 49K good thing I opted for the extended warranty. My buddy (2014 F-350) just had his fixed at 85K to the tune of $800 plus, no extended warranty.

 

Not sure what Ford is charging for the part, but if not under warranty I would gust replace it my my self. I not that hard to get to. Personally, I think it's design flaw. They put an electronic device right on top of an engine that gets hot.

Once mine started acting up, it eventually failed.

 

I watched the full-length video of the guy replacing the crank case ventilation filter on a 2015 F250 with 10,000 miles, and, while I am happy I know where this issue resides, it seems like a purposeless part replacement. The guy couldn't even replicate the issue and showed that the existing sensor was operating properly by sticking metal things in and out of the tube while watching the graph. Since it was an "intermittent" issue and couldn't replicate it, he decided it was a faulty sensor and replaced the whole thing. The problem, though, is that he replaced it with an exact duplicate (albeit new part) that will likely have the exact same problem in another 10,000 miles. Now I'm all for fixing codes and having things work right, but this seems like a temporary band-aid that doesn't actually permanently fix the issue at all.

He also complains about the newer design on the newer vehicles but then admits the earlier engines has a better design where you can just replace the tube. Why not replace the newer design with an older design that works better and is cheaper to replace?

Still, I find the part replacement a temporary fix at best. If the issue is heat from the engine causing a faulty sensor, then at least wrap it with some insulation or something. If it's just dirty from oil/smoke/soot/etc, then use some sensor cleaner on it and don't replace the whole thing as that's just a waste of money. Another option is to leave it as-is and just have an intermittent faulty CEL that doesn't affect anything (which is what I've been doing on my own truck). It doesn't put the vehicle into limp mode and it doesn't affect gas mileage either.

Here's the vid:

 

Bump for some discussion before it's lost in the forum.

 

Mine has come back a few times and turned itself off within a couple run cycles. I'm planning to bring it up when I take it in for service next but not planning to make a separate trip since everything else seems to be running fine.

 

My truck is at my local dealership today getting this part replaced. The check engine light came on just before the 4th and us leaving on a traveling vacation. Took the truck on vacation and the light would intermittently go on and off along our trip. When I made the appointment, I was still in base warranty but over the trip, moved over 36,000 miles. Dealer said that this part was 100% covered under warranty and they would not need to use my extended warranty ($100 deductible).

bruce...

 

This was covered under the much longer emissions warranty and not base or extended warranty. Dealer said this was a $600 fix had I been out of warranty.

Bruce

 

Out of curiosity? How many of you guys are running full synthetic oil my old 16 never had this issue at 60,000 miles till it blow up of other problems. It's interesting to note that the 17 now has replaceable coalescer filter perhaps they've learned this is causing the failure too much Gunk build up inside the housing itself just curious take care

 

One other point that I wanted to make in case someone looks this error code up in the future. I put on about 1,500 miles between this code first appearing and the dealer fixing it. It did not impact performance and was not an emergency fix.

Bruce...

 

My '15 has started throwing this code and the CEL comes on. The problem is it may turn off next time I start the truck or may stay on for a few cycles. I was denied a MA state inspection sticker because the code threw when the inspector started the truck although it was not on when he pulled it into the bay originally. I ended up having to leave the inspection station and start and stop the truck a few cycles until it turned off. Once it turned off my truck was allowed to pass inspection.

 

The final day of my vacation included a 208 mile drive home and the check engine light was off when I started the trip, through when I got home. The next morning as I drove the truck to the dealer the light remained off. Dealer was still able to find the code in the computer and fix the issue. This seemed to be something that they thought was common although I don't remember reading much about this here but I struggle reading everything.


bruce...

 

If it's not affecting performance, why not wire up a voltage converter that outputs 3.5V so the computer is satisfied? This would fix the issue permanently without any side effects. Sure beats paying over $600 at the dealer to replace it with an identical part that will fail again.

Here's one such device called a "Buck regulator module" or "Buck step-down converter module" on Amazon I found for under $6. You can supply any voltage (between 3V and 30V DC) and adjust the output to anything between 1.5V and 35V DC.

 

This helps out because I have a 800mi trip home in 2 days and now I think ill take care of it after I get home
Mine just came on today after a 300mi drive

 

I see that some have paid for the repair or left it to the extended warranty. My dealer repaired it under the 100k emissions warranty. I don't know if they were correct in doing so, but that is what they did. The big problem with this code seems to be that it does not always set the engine light. My Torque app was telling me it was there but with no engine light. So, it may be more common than we know for those who aren't using any type of active code reader.