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99 Ranger Clutch replacement

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Old Jan 8, 2017 | 10:06 PM
  #1  
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99 Ranger Clutch replacement

My clutch is weak and slips sometimes and I need to replace it,,, I went on E-Bay and they are anywhere from $90 to $290,,, anyone got any ideas on better brand name,,,,regular or ceramic ???? Any info on which is better and any thing I should know about,,,I have replaced the clutch disc in other trucks but never a Ranger,,, Oh 99 3.0,,,5 speed stick,,, extended cab
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 06:27 AM
  #2  
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I waited for somebody else to post their recommendations, but I guess the crowd is quiet. Maybe my post will prime the pump and other recommendations will follow......
You didn't post if this is just a daily cruiser or if you do a bunch of towing, so I'm just throwing this out in the wind.
First, I would recommend a direct replacement from Ford, if it's still available. Factory replacement parts are meant to fix the vehicle without a customer coming back again.
With that being said, and with me not always following that advice, I would go with a Luk brand. It's available on RockAuto for a price that's not too bad and I've had decent luck with them before. On a flywheel with lots of meat, you also want to have it resurfaced. This stops clutch chatter that seems to appear after a clutch replacement and it is so annoying. Since your Ranger's flywheel doesn't have too much material, you'll want to simply replace it. You'll also want to replace the hydraulic slave cylinder components because it's a real PITA do replace them a successful clutch replacement is complete. All parts are available from RockAuto, but the cost of everything won't be cheap. Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2017 | 04:17 PM
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Just a quick follow up,,,my truck is a daily driver and i have never done any towing and do not pan to,,the ford replacement would be nice but not in my price range,,,and as i said before the prices vary from $90 to $290,,I assume the $290 is a towing package and is not needed,, I do not drive it very often or very far though it is my only transportation,,, and I am not sure if flywheel can be resurfaced or just needs to be replaced,,, and I saw some clutch disc that where ceramic,, I have heard of them but never used one,,, any advice from anyone would be helpful here ,,,please chime in with your opinions
 
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 04:38 AM
  #4  
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I put 247K on my 98 2 wheel drive (3.0) before I had to change out the clutch. Then it wasn't the clutch, the pilot bearing piled up and locked up the input shaft. I took my fly wheel to a machine shop and they shaved only .003 off to square it up. They also checked it for cracks and found none. I don't recall the brand of the clutch kit that I purchased as I had it for several years before I installed it. I bought it at Car Quest before they were bought out by Adavance Auto Parts. It did come with a throw out bearing. I do recall that it was new kit and not a re-manufactured unit. I had my choice of a bushing or a roller bearing for a pilot bearing so I went with the roller bearing and put a little extra grease on it. Of course, I replaced the slave cylinder while I was right there and had it in my hands. I ended up choosing to cut the exhaust pipe with a saws all rather than attempt to remove the nuts at the manifolds as they were rusted very bad. (About a year later, I had to replace the head gaskets so I got new studs then) My truck has 269K on it now and is running like a champ.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2017 | 09:24 AM
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On my 1990, I bought everything from Rock Auto. Clutch, flywheel and complete slave cyl and clutch master cyl combo. All for around $300 and have been driving on it for about a year now with no issues. I needed the complete clutch master cyl due to me buying the truck as a project but you should put a new slave in there when you do your clutch.

DR
 
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Old Jan 14, 2017 | 01:33 PM
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I got a kit ordered,,,it is made by Grip Force ,,, It is in route now,,,it comes with the Clutch,,,Pressure Plate,,Bearing and Slave,,,plus the bushing and a alinement tool,,,waiting to see the flywheel when i get it apart,,,to see if it can be resurfaced or needs to be replaced,,,this is just about everything except the Master Cyclinder ,,,,think the old one will be fine,,,but will see
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 02:11 PM
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Ok I need a little advice here,,,I was low on money and took my truck to a school near me that has a auto mechanics class. They removed my transmission and replaced the bushing and the rear main seal,,, I got a new flywheel and then they put on new clutch ,,pressure plate and throwout bearing and new new slave. Then they called me and said the clutch master cyclinder was not pumping fluid right I got a new master cyclinder and they installed it. They called me again and said they could not get it to work right.I have about one inch of clutch pedal right at the floor ,, I drove it home with very little clutch pedal. I think it still has air in the master cyclinder and is not enguageing the clutch fully!!!! Any help here would be nice
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 02:32 PM
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Sounds like air in it to me.......
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by spooktn
Ok I need a little advice here,,,I was low on money and took my truck to a school near me that has a auto mechanics class. They removed my transmission and replaced the bushing and the rear main seal,,, I got a new flywheel and then they put on new clutch ,,pressure plate and throwout bearing and new new slave. Then they called me and said the clutch master cyclinder was not pumping fluid right I got a new master cyclinder and they installed it. They called me again and said they could not get it to work right.I have about one inch of clutch pedal right at the floor ,, I drove it home with very little clutch pedal. I think it still has air in the master cyclinder and is not enguageing the clutch fully!!!! Any help here would be nice
Go to you tube and watch how to bleed it. You will need to remove it and hang it on a wall to get it right. The design is notorious for a small bubble at the top. Once you do this, it will be perfect!
 
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Old Jan 27, 2017 | 10:06 AM
  #10  
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I just replaced my clutch in a 93 ranger. Got no response at all after bleeding at the trany. Had the same problem with bleeding the master cylinder. There is a guy on youtube that shows how he did it by pulling the piston out of the top of the master under the dash and letting some fluid drip out. I tried it and it worked great, nice trick. Quick job, master stays in truck, just have to be careful. Oh, and yours may not come apart like his did but the basic idea is sound. Be sure the res is kept full and uncapped when you do it.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 08:16 PM
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I had a 99 Ranger 2 wheel Drive 2.5 liter 4cyl 5 speed had 250000 miles when I sold it. Clutch never replaced and never slipped
 
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 10:18 PM
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Ok the weather here finally got right,,,I removed the clutch master cyclinder and bench bled it according to the utube video,,,it was not working,,,so my friend held the master upside down and pushed the rod and I pushed the check ball on the end of the line with a small phillips screwdriver and a little fluid and a lot of air shot out,,,reinstalled it and it was great....thanks for all the help fellows,,,and thank god for utube videos LOL
 
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