Replaceing the clutch
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: PA
Replaceing the clutch
I have a 92 f150 with the 300 six and 5 speed manual trans. I think I may be beginning to have clutch problems. If I need to replace the clutch, bearing and slave cyl, which brands do you all reccomend?
I was thinking centerforce or something. Also, any places on the net to get these parts cheap?
Thanks for any help.
I was thinking centerforce or something. Also, any places on the net to get these parts cheap?
Thanks for any help.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 369
Likes: 1
Replaceing the clutch
I replaced mine a few months ago. Glad I did it myself, but I wouldn't do it again!
I considered a centerforce, but the stock clutch lasted 115,000 miles, so I decided to stick with the standard design. The clutch kit prices out of Northern Auto are great, but I went to a reputable local parts shop (not a discount shop) in case I had the my truck in pieces and realized I had been sent the wrong part #.
I can't remember the name of the clutch manufacturer, but I'd call around some to get prices. I know the slave cylinder was a Wagner.
Some recommendations if you do it yourself: Get the flywheel ground, rent a pilot bushing puller, and make sure you have a transmission jack.
I considered a centerforce, but the stock clutch lasted 115,000 miles, so I decided to stick with the standard design. The clutch kit prices out of Northern Auto are great, but I went to a reputable local parts shop (not a discount shop) in case I had the my truck in pieces and realized I had been sent the wrong part #.
I can't remember the name of the clutch manufacturer, but I'd call around some to get prices. I know the slave cylinder was a Wagner.
Some recommendations if you do it yourself: Get the flywheel ground, rent a pilot bushing puller, and make sure you have a transmission jack.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Replaceing the clutch
Absolutely grind the flywheel.
I would consider getting a new clutch vs a reman. LUK is a good brand among the stock type. Most people think they need a killer driveline-twistin' clutch when they really don't.
Good idea to get it locally in case you have a problem. When I ran a parts store, people would try to chisel me down by saying they could mail-order this or that so much cheaper.
Guess who they'd come crying to when their online parts showed up and were wrong?
I would consider getting a new clutch vs a reman. LUK is a good brand among the stock type. Most people think they need a killer driveline-twistin' clutch when they really don't.
Good idea to get it locally in case you have a problem. When I ran a parts store, people would try to chisel me down by saying they could mail-order this or that so much cheaper.
Guess who they'd come crying to when their online parts showed up and were wrong?
New User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Bend Oregon
Replaceing the clutch
Did mine myself. Just a little fyi, depending on how bad you need a clutch, your pilot bearing may be shot real bad. Does it make any noise? Mine did, and it turned out the bearing and the crank decided to try and become one part. The slide hammer type puller and the hydrolic type didnt work. I ended up using an air hammer. Get the flywheel machined and while yer at it, might as well have a new ring gear put on it, only another 35 bucks installed. I dont know about the F150s but my ZF tranny had an internal slave cylinder with the throw out bearing built in. If thats the case, make sure you get that too, it wont come with the clutch kit.
Last edited by HiFlyin93; Feb 13, 2003 at 11:46 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 115
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Replaceing the clutch
Look on the sticker on your drivers side door pillar. There should be a code listed on it under trans. Post it on here and someone will tell you what tranny you have. That is, if it still has the original transmission.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 90
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From: In Merna
Replaceing the clutch
I put a RAM clutch in mine got it from summit for about 150. While you have the trany out you should replace the rubber plugs in the back of the top cover.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 141
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From: North East
Replaceing the clutch
Originally posted by 87black150
Look on the sticker on your drivers side door pillar. There should be a code listed on it under trans. Post it on here and someone will tell you what tranny you have. That is, if it still has the original transmission.
Look on the sticker on your drivers side door pillar. There should be a code listed on it under trans. Post it on here and someone will tell you what tranny you have. That is, if it still has the original transmission.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 601
Likes: 1
From: South Sioux City, NE USA
Replaceing the clutch
Actually, the "M" means M5OD. Which is the Mazda 5 speed OD trans. Take a look at the trans case and it should have vertical ribs in the case. While you are under there, get the numbers off of the tag attached to the drivers side of the case. Then you can go to www.drivetrain.com and look up the numbers.
Elder User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 692
Likes: 1
From: Coon Rapids, MN
Replaceing the clutch
I replaced my clutch which I originally thought to be used but turned out to be less than 10k old (looked brand new) with a 11" LUK clutch. So now ive got a spare laying around with no use. This clutch is very expensive, but is high performance setup that has a LIFETIME warrantee. Clutch does have awesome grip, but I dunno. Unless you are really stressing it to the max, a cheaper setup may be fine. But for me, enough really just isn't good enough. 
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 141
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From: North East
Replaceing the clutch
Originally posted by lanero
Actually, the "M" means M5OD. Which is the Mazda 5 speed OD trans. Take a look at the trans case and it should have vertical ribs in the case. While you are under there, get the numbers off of the tag attached to the drivers side of the case. Then you can go to www.drivetrain.com and look up the numbers.
Actually, the "M" means M5OD. Which is the Mazda 5 speed OD trans. Take a look at the trans case and it should have vertical ribs in the case. While you are under there, get the numbers off of the tag attached to the drivers side of the case. Then you can go to www.drivetrain.com and look up the numbers.
Again, thank you.
New User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Replaceing the clutch
i have a 92 f 150, 302 5-speed. did the clutch on jackstands in un heated garage in dead of winter.
a whole lot of that going on. i will pull the motor to do the next one, i think it would be much easier, probly quicker, and much less uncomfortable.
just the opinion i swore to my self about half way thru the job.
Adam
a whole lot of that going on. i will pull the motor to do the next one, i think it would be much easier, probly quicker, and much less uncomfortable.just the opinion i swore to my self about half way thru the job.
Adam
New User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 23
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Replaceing the clutch
Replacing the clutch was a gang bang of a job. Getting the pressure line off the slave cylinder was a joke. I'm getting a new F-250 so I'm glad I won't have to do this job again anytime soon. But I'll miss my old F-150 4.9 M5OD. :sniff:
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2003
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Replaceing the clutch
Ford wants 900.00 to do my clutch in my f-150 4x4 that includes all the parts new clutch pressure plate slave cylinder turn the fly wheel, the works, the labour is 300, don't know if it's worth doing my self, sounds like alot of work, and it's got warranty
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 369
Likes: 1
Replaceing the clutch
I'm surprised the labor is only $300, however, as I look back on what I spent a couple months ago, it was $369 (with 8.3% tax) for a full clutch kit (clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing) and a new slave cylinder. Oh, that also included the flywheel grind and a new rear main seal.
I've seen other posts where they've paid around $700 for a new clutch installation. However, I would take some comfort in it being the dealer, and it comes with a warranty.
As far as the effort involved, it was 2 weeks of pure PITA! If everything went smoothly, it would only taken a few days. I spent 3 or more days and many can of penatrating oil trying to remove the bolts on the driveshaft (solved only with a borrowed air wrench), the pilot bearing disentagrated on removal and had to be pieced out, many of the bolts are difficult to reach and are sealed with thread locker (i.e. there's no loosen and then remove with your fingers, every turn is as hard as the first), days spent bleeding the system to not avail, and...well you get the picture.
In short, I replaced the clutch because I've never done it before. Would I do it again...no way. Especially a 4x4.
(Well, now I've worked myself up about this. I need a beer!)
I've seen other posts where they've paid around $700 for a new clutch installation. However, I would take some comfort in it being the dealer, and it comes with a warranty.
As far as the effort involved, it was 2 weeks of pure PITA! If everything went smoothly, it would only taken a few days. I spent 3 or more days and many can of penatrating oil trying to remove the bolts on the driveshaft (solved only with a borrowed air wrench), the pilot bearing disentagrated on removal and had to be pieced out, many of the bolts are difficult to reach and are sealed with thread locker (i.e. there's no loosen and then remove with your fingers, every turn is as hard as the first), days spent bleeding the system to not avail, and...well you get the picture.
In short, I replaced the clutch because I've never done it before. Would I do it again...no way. Especially a 4x4.
(Well, now I've worked myself up about this. I need a beer!)