I'm replacing my doors on my 96 Ford F-150 with manual windows with doors off a 93 f150 that has power windows and locks what all is gonna be involved to wire up the windows and locks

 

You would need the whole harness for the power windows that runs behind the dashboard as well

 

i have the entire truck the doors are coming off of so how hard would it be to wire them up or does my truck have the wiring from the factory

 

You would need to remove the dashboard from the doner truck and then remove the harness.

You then would need to remove your dashboard and install the harness

 

would that basically just be unplugging and replugging stuff up and is there a seperate harness for the windows and locks or is it all wired with the other electronics in the cab

 

Yes, it is a separate harness

 

Harness is easy to get, it runs across the front of the cab, you don't have to pull the dash. You can pull everything out of a donor rig pretty easy. I just did this a few years ago and put electric windows in as well. I had electric locks for years but I put them in all crappy. I put all the stock hardware in this time and put the locks where they were installed by the factory. I took photos of the back of the fuse panel of the donor truck so I could connect the wire harness to my fuse panel and put the stock relays in that I also took from the junk yard truck. It was super easy. I took the manual window crank assemblies out, installed the electric ones using bolts where I could and I did use pop rivets in a few of the holes, it is awesome!

 

How did you gain access to the harness behind the dash just under the windshield without removing the dash?

 

In 87 the entire harness ran in a channel in the cab behind the sound/insulation rubber firewall pad across the cab just under the dash, super easy. Maybe yours is a little different and may by default run up under the dash for some reason but, if you get the entire setup from a junk yard and are starting fresh in your vehicle, I am sure you could run it across the front of the cab like the earlier models did and have no issues with wire lengths into the doors. Looking at a harness on ebay it looks very similar to mine. You could look at a couple 87's in the pull and save while your there to see where the harness runs. You may have to extend the power wires from the back of the fuse box but that isn't a big deal at all.

I got new lariat door panels, the switches and all the door lock rods, everything needed out of what must have been a pickup used for towing because it was perfect on the inside and had very low mileage. It was hit in the back really hard but looked like a Grandpa rig with big mud flaps for protecting a towed RV. Seat wasn't worn, windows switch print was perfect, I got the tach cluster out of it as well. Everything was like 30 bucks at the Pull and Save. The electric windows were the hardest part of the job but not to bad. Nice to have the stock system now as well with my remote start I can lock and unlock the doors while it is remote started with the key fob. I couldn't make that happen with the locks I installed back in 89 with the remote start. The remote start has pit stop mode which is hard to find on systems any longer. Basically when it is running you just do the remote start procedure on the key fob, it takes over, you turn off the key and take the keys with you. Really nice if your in and out of places delivering stuff or picking stuff up your not turning the rig on and off 10 times in a half hour. I used to have to lock the doors manually when I did this and then unlock with the key when I got back where now I can lock and unlock with the key fob.

 

If you would of read the OP post it says he has a 96/93, NOT and 87. BIG difference

 

I read the post, it says he has a 96 150. The cab still has the indent where mine does as well as the rubber firewall sound deadening pad on it. The wire harness will run across there under that pad and still go into the doors. You could then easily add an aftermarket keyless entry. You don't need to run anything up under the dash for what he wants to do unless you want to connect into the fuse panel stock locations. You don't have to do this but it sure is nice. It was a pain in the neck to get my fuse panel disconnected where I could see the back and get the stock wiring installed. Nice that you can do it all in the junk yard first to see how it all works. These photos are of a 96. If you can find a junk yard truck that is all torn apart and get the harness real easy installing it in your own vehicle really isn't that hard. Getting the locks in the door and all the lock rods, door panel swap.

 

You are acting like removing the dash is hard? It takes about 30 for a first timer.

And the it can be done RIGHT, no cabbage patched together

 

I agree removing the dash may take 30 minutes, it does in an 87-91. It is a total pain in the neck in the 87-91 getting it back in the vehicle the way it was installed and would be what I consider hard. There is a bunch of stuff attached that pulls off really easy when you remove it but when you go to put it back in it is not fun even with 2 people. Removing the floor liner, kick panels and door panels, installing the lock/window wiring is much faster. You can drive it around if you need to as well with no issues in the middle of the project. It doesn't matter to me if he wants to rip the dash out, I am just giving him options for a quick, easy install.

 

so I was working on taking the harness of the donor truck and noticed it all runs to a plugin would my 96 that came factory with manual have that plug in for the harness

 

The window/lock harness is COMPLETELY separate from the rest of the truck harness