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Hi, working on an 86 F150 for a friend of mine. It's a Inline six 4 speed 4x4 model that has rust but is solid. It's running real rough, sucks gas, stalls randomly and gets hot.
He tells me he has done nothing to it but oil changes, new tirea and a front brake and bearing job since 2001!
I immediately noticed that the water pump bearing had play, the rad is leaking at the seams, the distributor cap is loose and cracked. And I know the plugs are bad.
Is there any way to eleminated some wires without changing the distributor and carb? I know on 80s CJs with computer carbs there is a way to bypass. It starts right up now but there are a ton of vacuum line es and wires that don't plug into anything. Also the choke is unplugged, yet it starts up fine cold.
I also plan on eleminating the air system. Did this on a Jeep 360 AMC and plugged the manifold holes. Does this system connect to the manifold? Seems like it just connects to the catalytic converter (which will be changed to stand alone type with new exhaust).
It's not that simple; you have a computer-controlled carburetor & ignition system and by the sounds of it, the computer is entirely unhappy with the situation.
Which "air system" are you talking about? Air conditioning or A.I.R. (smog) pump? Kinda looks like smog pump given the reference to the catalytic converter....
Seems lately everyone is buying one of those one wire HEI distributors for the 300 six. Don't know how they are doing it on the 80's CJ's, but you need something to adjust the timing with the rpms and load of the engine. Pulling the old dist out is the only way to achieve this.
You can leave the carb for now, but it's best to change it also at some later date. Even if you kept it, it probably needs a kit if it never had one put in it.
Thanks for the input!! I had a feeling this would be the case when I read in the how to section about the HEI install, and nothing about computer bypass.
Yes I meant the air injection. For now I'll just leave everything intact since it runs pretty good. And everything is in pretty decent condition. Took the cap off today and one of the screw holes is broken off, which is why it was loose. Going to try and fix it with some clay epoxy. What really freaked me out is all the loose plugs that don't go anywhere. All guages work. Will just clean it up and tune it for now.
What carb would you recommend? Read that pre 84 had a normal carb. Looking to do this on a budget and get the best gas mileage.
Where should the choke wire hook up to? Does that just need switched 12 volts? And I'm guessing the thing on the passenger side inner fender is the computer? What are the 3 things mounted on the valve cover? Soo many vacuum lines on these mailaise era rigs! Lucky really that this is so unmessed with.
Post some pictures of the disconnected wires, it may have come from the factory that way - wiring was often included even if the optional accessory wasn't installed and so some disconnected wires is entirely normal.
Post some pictures of the disconnected wires, it may have come from the factory that way - wiring was often included even if the optional accessory wasn't installed and so some disconnected wires is entirely normal.
Very true.
Even on new trucks it's that way. If this truck didn't run I'd convert it to the 78-83 durraspark right away. Funny my 1991 wagoneer has 70s era durraspark from the factory. Great system, crazy they gave it up for this crap!
The ignition system on your engine is very much related to the ignition system they used when they went to fuel injection. I believe it's the exact same module, possibly the dist would even interchange with a fuel injection one(not sure about that).
So your 300 has computer control for the ignition, and a few wires on the carb to trim the fuel. This was a baby step before they went to better control with fuel injection. Later on they went to coil packs and got rid of the dist(not on this engine though). It's a progression, your engine being on of the first designs.
Cool that makes a lot of sense. This truck is not mine though, just trying to help out a friend who does not have any automotive knowledge and not a lot to spend. Not even sure if this truck is worth replacing the system , pretty rusty and needs a new rear axle.
Guess I'll just stop thinking so hard about it, check for broken lines and pull electrical connections apart and clean them. I am going to eliminate the AIR system though, because if there anything like the Jeeps the pumps are known to sieze, and this cat looks like it's about to fall off.
Seems to me like a overcomplicated system to eleminate a simple effective vacuum advance!
Hey guys just wanted to do a quick update, just finished the tune up, exhaust gasket, valve cover gasket, push rod cover gasket and motor mounts. Also cleaned up under the hood. Runs pretty good, but still stalls underload. Carb definitely needs to be rebuilt, but I told him I recommend the older carb/ dizzy conversion and the FI exhaust manifolds. This one seals OK, but is a little bit warped, the heat riser is gone and the surface is a bit pitted.
I cleaned up all the wires. Actually everything was in pretty good shape. Found a few bare spots at the distributor, and the wire that led from the alternator to the choke was broken off.
Needs a new cooling system, but first it needs the driveling gone through. Everything seems to have play. But it all works, and its a cool truck with a NP 435? 4spd, so I hope he puts some more money in it and keeps it on the road.
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