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I thought POR15 was a rust encapsulator? I have never used it but I have read it doesnt like bare metal, so if you are going to bare metal use a real epoxy primer. The guys here to are pros I am sure will follow up with the right information.
I sandblasted and sprayed it. You can top coat with a UV version or use a special primer and then you can use another paint over it.
I read POR15 needs "teeth" to adhere to. Their instructions do mention sandblasting within the instructions.
Here's a before and after of the process. Note the black floor in my makeshift sandblasting\paint booth. That over spray has been there going on four years now.
POR-15 needs an etch primer before putting onto smooth metal or it will likely flake off. Just be sure and read the instructions. Its a lot easier to do than getting it wrong and having to do over. Never tried spraying it like above but the media blasting would likely be a good key and alternative to etching it. Dunno if I would risk it though.
I've been using the SPI epoxy primer on my '51 F1. I painted the frame with it last year and have found it to be very tough and durable while I work on the balance of the truck. I plan to use it on the entire truck.
Another vote for SPI epoxy primer, Southern Polyurethanes Inc.
Really nice stuff, sprays nice, dries fast, comes in a bunch of colors, is relatively inexpensive, and they deliver FAST!
Nicest epoxy I've ever used.
This is the first I heard of SPI - I looked them up online and was quite impressed, Ill surely consider using them in the future. I usually keep some epoxy and
hi build around for small things that I spray, which lately seems pretty often.
I usually make 2 purchases a year from a paint supplier at the swap meet in Daytona beach. I know the fears of not knowing what you're getting at a swap meet but the product seems fresh and the cost is very reasonable, its made by Rubber Seal / Medallion, which has been around for years. So far Im happy with its performance.
This is the first I heard of SPI - I looked them up online and was quite impressed, Ill surely consider using them in the future. I usually keep some epoxy and
hi build around for small things that I spray, which lately seems pretty often.
I usually make 2 purchases a year from a paint supplier at the swap meet in Daytona beach. I know the fears of not knowing what you're getting at a swap meet but the product seems fresh and the cost is very reasonable, its made by Rubber Seal / Medallion, which has been around for years. So far Im happy with its performance.
I order some this morning wasn't to expensive. 180 buck but that will make 2 gallons when it is mix together
Just remember to follow their instructions to the letter for best results. For example, they want the mixed epoxy to sit for at least a half hour before spraying-I find that it works best if you let it sit at least an hour, because it dries quicker the longer it cooks before spraying. They also want the bare metal washed with their water based cleaner, which is a mix of rubbing alcohol and some other stuff. Again, I have been doing as they instruct, with great results. Do not use rust converter under their epoxy; they are adamant about that. Bare, clean steel with at least an 80 grit scratch or sand blasted texture. Follow the instructions and the stuff sticks like crazy.
I used SPI on the body panels and really like it. Their instructions do say that if you use 3 coats you can leave it on inner fenders and other areas without a topcoat.
One of the important instructions points that they really stress is that the temperature needs to stay above 65 degrees for 24 hours after spraying or it never fully hardens.
save the por 15 for mailboxes,kidswagons etc.its junk.google por 15 falling off in sheets.it needs a very rough surface and etching is not enough,get it clean sandblasted and epoxy and paint it.if your on a budget and cant afford proper steps,use por15 or tremclad etc.take a chance.
I have some por 15 test panels,over 2k sanded primer it still peels off after 5 years
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