I'm better with pictures than words so:



See I replaced the leaky radiator today and one of the transmission cooler tubes would not BUDGE without turning the tube. I tried everything from WD40 to Liquid Silicone and it was no go.

Anyways once it crimped the tube bad enough trying to losen it I just cut it with a pipecutting wrench and ran a hose and hose clamp set between the parts I cut (funny the nut that wouldn't budge on the radiator while under the hood took only about five minutes to losen one I cut a link out of the tube....go figure )

Now the hose and clamp set up is working, and working pretty good, but still at idle and right after turning off the engine I get some leakage. Not really happy with that and I'd like to replace the whole transmision line.

I've replaced brake lines on several vehicles before this that had attachment set ups like this but was always lucky enough to be able to thread them off and take them to a yard or store and go 'I need this...'...I've always called them nipples personally.

Anyways I went out with the part above to about three stores (O'Riely, Advanced Auto, and a local set up) and they all said 'we don't carry that though' to the above drawing (????). In the end a guy who really knows his stuff at Advanced Auto told me to run the hose and clamp deal for the time being and that it would work pretty well (my idea in the first place) but I still get some leakage when I turn off the truck and probably while idling so I'm not totally happy with it.

Long story though made short.....what part / set up am I looking for to replace this transmision line to the coolant tank in the radiator so I can call around intead of driving around? If you have size specs that would help too.

1982 thru 1986 (from what I understand) 351W.....thanks for the help.....

 

When I was with a transmission shop, we often had to cut the lines as you did. We would install a "Union" where the line was cut.

 

well...O'riely sold me a union kit I think...two threaded nuts that lock the lines together, something like what you are talking about and it leaked like all get out. I mean right from crank and even worse while actually driving...I've heard of them working and I think O'riely might have just sold me something that was too 'low pressure' for the transmission. That's when I stopped at Advanced on the way home and went with my original idea of clamping the lines together with hose. Even had to cut an extra bit off that transmission line to get off the union kit.

Maybe there are better or worse union kits? Any ideas appreciated...the idea of totally replacing the line is my first guess for a fix but if anyone has the details on a better way than crawling on the ground and bending out a whole new line I'd be happy to try it. Thanks man!

 

A supplier of Weatherhead Fittings would have the proper parts.

 

This is the type union I speak of, called a "Compression Union". It has ferrules that slip on the tubing, and when the nuts are tightened, the ferrules seal, and there will be no leak unless the tubing is bad. I've used them successfully 100's of times.

 

Ya that is what they sold me....to give it credit it looked like it should have worked but it was getting dark and I may have tightened them down poorly....I didn't have the clamps on the hose that is on there now totally tight either and that may have been causing the little leaks. Went outside this AM and made them 'superman' tight when the sun came up and I could see what I was doing (didnt want to strip the clamps or snap them).

I think the only thing I miss about being married is the fact that THEN I had lighted carport to work under.......can't mess with stuff right in the dark out of a townhome with bad outdoor lighting.

 

If you make sure the tube butts into the base of the union while tightening, the ferrule will be about 1/8" from the end of the tubing. When tightened down, the ferrule is squeezed around the tube causing a seal if done properly. These things will hold under extreeme pressure, and the relaitive little pressure from the trans pump is nothing. Again, the only way it would leak is if installed improperly, or the tube is damaged.

If you do decide to use rubber tubing and clamps, that's fine too, but make sure it's able to withstand the petroleum product. Don't use vacuum hose, it will burst in short time.

 

94van's advice is excellent. First time users tend to severely overtighten the fitting which will also make it leak, then you try to tighten it more....... The only thing you can do then is cut a new section and use two new ferrules.

 

I'm actually going to retry 94's advice this weekend as even 'superman' tight hose and clamp fittings are still leaking a bit and I asked around about the unions he is talking about and everyone says they are great but I installed them cockeyed or something and that is why they leaked (it was getting dark and I was rushing...sadly no lighted area to work in any more).

What you just said about over tightening makes even more sense cuz I did try tightening them down more when I got to the point of wanting to go with clamp and hose and it just got worse.

PS: I'm going to go with two of those fittings on a new piece of tubing so I can get a nice clean cut on the existing tubing and bend the 'replacement' tubing in the right places without damaging the original. That shouldn't cause problems right?

THX GUYS!!!!

 

GreyFord Fan
The type of fittings that you drew and should be on your vehicle are commonly known as flare fittings (45deg). They do not have a ferrule inside and can withstand much greater pressure than a ferrule fitting, although in a tranny cooler line it probably isn't critical. Flare fittings are widely used in hydraulics and withstand working pressures of 3500 psi. Your concern right now is to get the fitting that is compatable with what comes out of the radiator. the nut you describe in your drawing is male pipe to the radiator and female 45 flare to the tube. Unscrew this from the rad and take it to your parts store. Ask to see standard brake lines and you will find that the proper diameter brake line will fit. You can then make a complete new line or buy an additional double female 45 flare to splice yours. These flare fittings are used not only for the pressure but because they are VIBRATION proof. You don't want them starting to leak at and inconvenient time. This is why you are getting the seepage. You will have to buy a tool and DOUBLE FLARE the ends if the tube to a 45 to make these fittings work.