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I remember when I first got my 69 F250 with manual everything, it was a handful to drive. It would wander all over, follow any minor defect in the road, and I'd have to stay so on top of it it was stressful to drive, until I learned to relax. I would basically just rest my hand on the wheel and let the truck do it's thing, give it a loose rein and it was much more pleasurable to drive. These old trucks need that, you don't so much precisely guide them and just kind of show them which way you want to go.
^Yep.
My steering box is loose as a goose, but everything else is tight and the alignment is good and the truck goes straight by itself. Just gotta keep it pointed in the right direction and it'll go.
Waiting til after I fix my cab mounts to replace the box.
FYI a 81 F100 I took for a road test before I bought it was also all over the road, almost put it in a ditch! Told owner not to let any one else drive it till check out better. I would put money on all the bushing & tie rod ends being bad. It also made a noise when the wheels were turned left & right.
Well I did buy it and when I got it home and checked out bushing and rod ends were ok and no play found.
What I did find when off the ground I could not grab the wheels and turn them left & right.
Looking closer I found the king pins frozen. What I think was happening was I was expecting the steering wheel to return on its own and when it did not and had to turn it back it just thru me off and thought play in the system.
So if you find everything tight look at king pins being frozen.
Dave ----
FYI a 81 F100 I took for a road test before I bought it was also all over the road, almost put it in a ditch! Told owner not to let any one else drive it till check out better. I would put money on all the bushing & tie rod ends being bad. It also made a noise when the wheels were turned left & right.
Well I did buy it and when I got it home and checked out bushing and rod ends were ok and no play found.
What I did find when off the ground I could not grab the wheels and turn them left & right.
Looking closer I found the king pins frozen. What I think was happening was I was expecting the steering wheel to return on its own and when it did not and had to turn it back it just thru me off and thought play in the system.
So if you find everything tight look at king pins being frozen.
Dave ----
That's a good tip and not something I would think of. I did move the tires side to side while it was on the lift to watch the tie rods do their thing, they weren't difficult to turn by hand.
I measured treadblock to treadblock front of tire and rear of tire, got 67" in front, 67 3/4" in rear. Is that enough to cause an issue?
Like I said, I'm getting better at driving it and it's bothering me less, so you are right about the loose grip on the reigns.
That's 3/4" of toe-in. That's gonna make it over responsive and harder to keep straight.
Turn it out until you have an 1/8" of toe in. Which would mean the rear measurement would be 1/8" wider than the front. That will make it much more stable and reduce tire wear as well.
That's 3/4" of toe-in. That's gonna make it over responsive and harder to keep straight.
Turn it out until you have an 1/8" of toe in. Which would mean the rear measurement would be 1/8" wider than the front. That will make it much more stable and reduce tire wear as well.
That's a good tip and not something I would think of. I did move the tires side to side while it was on the lift to watch the tie rods do their thing, they weren't difficult to turn by hand.
If you couldturn the wheels left/right by hand then I think you are ok, not frozen.
I do think you found why it "darts" all over. That 3/4" as said is way to much.
Easy way to do this with no help get 2 alum 90* angle little longer than the tires are tall, say 6" overhang on each side. You will need to hook the tape over one end and pull it across to the other side for measurements.
Also need 2 bungees to hold the aulm 90's to the wheels.
The alum goes across the outside of each wheel and the bungee goes around the back side to hold the alum to the wheels.
Try and put the alum up as high as you can but still get the tape measure across with out hitting anything.
Now just pass the tape to the other side hook it on the alum and take measurement on the other side.
Used this all the time on the stock car racing as you were always "rubbing" fenders.
Something like this picture but with the bungee holding it to the wheel. Also note the alum is hitting the front bumper so make sure it sits on tire and not hitting anything.
Pulled picture from this site [How-to] set your toe alignment at home - S-10 Forum
Dave ----
If you couldturn the wheels left/right by hand then I think you are ok, not frozen.
I do think you found why it "darts" all over. That 3/4" as said is way to much.
Easy way to do this with no help get 2 alum 90* angle little longer than the tires are tall, say 6" overhang on each side. You will need to hook the tape over one end and pull it across to the other side for measurements.
Also need 2 bungees to hold the aulm 90's to the wheels.
The alum goes across the outside of each wheel and the bungee goes around the back side to hold the alum to the wheels.
Try and put the alum up as high as you can but still get the tape measure across with out hitting anything.
Now just pass the tape to the other side hook it on the alum and take measurement on the other side.
Used this all the time on the stock car racing as you were always "rubbing" fenders.
Something like this picture but with the bungee holding it to the wheel. Also note the alum is hitting the front bumper so make sure it sits on tire and not hitting anything.
Pulled picture from this site [How-to] set your toe alignment at home - S-10 Forum
Dave ----
Hey, not only is that a good tip, but i'm making racing seat brackets for my turbo coupe so I happen to have two lengths of that same aluminum angle lying around!
My 9 year old helper is great but when we're talking fractions of an inch I just don't know if I can trust him yet