When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2006 F250 and my passenger light was out. I thought it was a bad bulb and I wanted to upgrade anyway so I bought some Slyvania Ultra headlights. Pulled out the old bulb and it didn't appear to be broken, but I installed the new upgraded lights anyway. Still not coming on. I tried the hi beams and still nothing. Got an electrical probe to test the wires and still no juice. Can anyone tell me where the wires run to so I can try to find the break in the line? I'm assuming there is not a seperate fuse for the passenger side...On a side note when I went hunting a few weeks ago I had some kind of animal make a nest under the hood, its possible a mouse/rat/squirrel ate my headlight wire, but the nest was in the top center of the engine by the turbo and oil filter.
The low beams on both sides have a common fuse (F30 under the dash). The high beams have a fuse for each bulb, fuses F46 & F47, left and right respectively.
If BOTH low and high beams are out on the passenger side and the driver's side is normal, it would be most likely that you have an open ground from the non-working headlight. The alternative is that the critter ate both wires going to the right side headlight. Always possible, but I'd go with the single wire failure first as it's more logical.
I used a test probe hooked to the negative post of the passenger battery and I probed the ports of the connector and still no juice. If it were a bad ground, this should have still allowed the light on my test probe to light up right?
If it were a bad ground, this should have still allowed the light on my test probe to light up right?
Nope, unless the circuit was actually good. Clarifying your testing procedure is useful, assuming you tested both power feeds to the bulb with the dimmer switch in the correct position for each.
Go back and check all three of those fuses using your test lamp in the fuse test port and see if you have power at that point. That will tell us for certain which segment of each circuit is affected.
Check the wire harness that runs through the plastic channel from the drivers side over top of the turbo and on to the passenger side. I had the same thing hapen on my 06' F350 and what I found was that the heat from the turbo had melted/chared sevral wires, 10 or 12 of them and that what was causing my issue. Had to cut out one by one and splice, solder and heat shrink the new sections in and that fixed it. No blown fuses just burnt wires and that is where the wires for the passenger headlamp run.
Things got a bit busy with the holidays but I finally had some time to mess with it today. Found a burnt out fuse, replaced it, and it blew again. So now I know I have a short somewhere. Not to sure where to start but I think I'll start looking under the dash. The truck has a viper alarm installed so maybe something in the installation has issues. I know in the past i've had the alarm wig out on me, it would go off on its own, it would start on its own etc so that could be the issue. I'll keep you posted on my findings. Thanks again for the help! Happy New Year
Took forever for me to get round to it but finally fixed it. Found the fuse and replaced it. It kept popping. Started following the wire from the headlight back and the wires were chewed through. Not sure how I didn't see it before because it wasn't far back from the headlight. Thanks again for all the help.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
