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I would highly recommend getting your wire from here if you do this upgrade. The method in how he terminates the ends is wayyyy better than what I was expecting. It's completely water tight and uses some type of a sealant that encases the connection under the shrink. A+++ product
I just got mine in today with a 250 amp alternator. Bought the basic kit from FICMRepair and the long pos to pos cable from Gregs. The cables from FICMRepair have a braided sheath over them as well.
Anybody that has a stator in place been able to do the ground cable and how did you do it. Can you get to the same bolt location that Jack used? Going to tackle this tonight but it looks tight.
Take a look from under. There can be possibilities there.
Think I can get to your spot? That's the size bolt I got, couldn't find the other size at a couple places. I have a feeling it's going to be a long night. :-). Hard to tell what I'm even looking at until I get some stuff out of the way. Maybe with the air cleaner and can tube removed I'll be able to see better.
The drivers side battery to frame and then NEW cable to block, I have found to be a challenge. I can snake my thin hand up to just touch where the frame ground bolt is, let alone get a wrench in there or the cable over the steering box to.... where??
My first fall-back is to go direct from the Neg on Drivers side to a good ground spot on the engine, right now that is the hard-line fuel hold-down bolt on the head.
If anyone finds something better, I'm all eyes and ears....
I can understand it's a pain in the tail with the stator on. Ive not had it on in so long it's had for me to re-visualize.
Here is the image I had from the video of the threaded locations. As a fall back, you could utilize one of the stator mounting bolts as it still would be a pathway.
Along with my stator out, I had the air cleaner, fan,battery, battery tray so it was a relative clear shot for me. But I think just with the air cleaner out it will give a better sight. But the lower drivers side stator bolt may be considered. And the driver head lift bracket.
I just looked around on my truck and even without the stator, there's no real access to anything in the top front without starting to pull parts off, and that begins with the air filter.
It's probably to late for info, but I took driver side CAC tube, air cleaner all out, battery, battery box and didn't think it was to terrible to complete, I also used Jacks yellow arrow location on the head and did it all from the top. I put split looming on that cable too.
Got er done. Wasn't too bad. The ground to frame rail was right under the cac tube connection. Did have to drill out the lug with a 3/8" bit and loosen it up a bit more for the frame rail connection. Maybe they changed the bolt size over the years. Not sure I used the same hole as Jack but it was a 10mm and worked fine. II'll post pics tomorrow. Got my battery pad heaters in, parallel alternator wire, parallel positive cable and the frame rail to block wire
