Hello MUSTANG 309
After the first owner (I am the second) I complete rebuild the engine (pictures above) using the same connecting rods because all ok. Now I start to remove the engine again from the van to check cylinder 4 and 5 both with low compression on a relative compression test and check injector 1 and 4 both with low contribution

any other idea?

Thanks in advance from Chile Patagonia

 

There is any way here to contact MARK BISMIC to check his opinion?

 

I would perform an actual compression test with a gauge, I believe you need a gauge that is 400+ PSI for a diesel engine. I would check the push tubes on the cylinders with low compression to make sure they are not bent. Bismic pops in from time to time, perhaps someone may have his contact info.

 

I just sent him (Bismic) an Email. Now to see if he receives it and can respond.

Anyway, I would agree that it's time to do an actual compression test.
I know that will be a major pain with the E-series that you have.

Merry Christmas

Or for our friends up north in Canada. Happy Boxing Day

 

As others have indicated, there can be some issues with the relative compression test. +1 with the recommendations to first manually check compression pressures (IIRC it is around 390 psi) and also +1 on considering moving the low performing injectors to another location and repeat the tests - however I would probably do that after getting the compression values and posting them (unless I am "too late to the party" and you have already swapped injectors).

Couple of questions:

Is it generating excessive crankcase pressure?
Is the engine generating excessive smoke? If so, maybe you can narrow down which cylinder is smoking (run it w/ the exhaust manifolds off).
I am curious about the oil condition as well, have you drained and checked the oil after running it?

This may help also:

Diagnostic Scan Tool Tips: When performing retests or multiple self tests on the 6.0 with any scan tool, false codes can be generated if the ignition is not cycled between tests. The ignition must be cycled to off then on before requesting each KOEO or injector buzz test. Broadcast Message 1816.
On scan tools capable of performing power balance tests a bad cylinder may cause a low reading in adjacent or companion cylinders. Additionally,the FICM can compensate for a low cylinder and make pinpointing the faulty cylinder difficult. The FICM compensation can be neutralized by using the datalogger injection test active command. Start testing by selecting the power balance function (in park or neutral only). Without closing the power balance screen, switch to datalogger, select an injector to monitor and highlight it without actually turning it off. The FICM will revert to base fuel control and will not compensate for the low cylinder for one minute. Switch back to the power balance screen andlook for the low cylinder. An injector should not be replaced based on the results of the power balance test. Back up the results with relative compression, code retrieval and buzz testing, and crankcase and compression testing. TSB #04-15-13

 

Mark, Thanks

Merry Christmas

 

Did you use new rings on the pistons? Did you at least ball hone?? If a piston leaves the bore,, I always replace rings and get a reset on the cross hashing.

 

I almost posted that you would be a much more valuable contributor than me, but figured I would wait until we got a little bit more info (I know you are busy)!

As always Anthony, your generous contributions to helping people are MUCH appreciated!

Hope you are enjoying the Christmas season!

 

Hello thanks for all your time and help on this problem I follow this forum from about 8 years and I read alot

I remove and complete disassembly the engine with 18.500 miles then I start to reassemble again

-No bore the cylinder no ball honed.
-Engine and head full hot chemical cleaned in a machine shop.
-I use same connecting rod, piston and rings from the engine (I broke one lubrication ring when I remove from the piston
and change for a new one I don’t remember what cylinder was but only change the lubrication ring on that piston.
-I use the same injector (Here in Chile there is impossible to test them in a shop with heui bench tester).
-All new oring, seal and head gasket (Victor Reinz) full engine kit. Loctite and Permatex also used.
-New Arp stud with new torque spec.
-All the engine complete bolted with torque spec from Ford engine manual.
-Heads send to machine shop to test, right and left heads OK Same valves OK All push road OK.
-New ICP sensor, IPR valve, down pipe from turbo, blue spring, HPOP fitting, EGR delete, all new Motorcraft filter oil and fuel
-Rebuild turbo, Oil cooler cheeked restriction, pressure and cleaned.
-FICM 48V to 48.5V at 700 and 3000 rpm
-HPOP 650 to 3500 PSI
-Oil pressure OK Fuel pressure OK
-New Motorcraft oil 15w40 18 qts (temperature in my city 86 fahrenheit) Two bottles of REV X
-Engine running for about 100 miles before start to dissembling two days ago
-I have the IDS VCM Scaner from ford
-Injector buzz test PASS I heard all clicking and scanner PASS
-Injector Low contribution test fails on 1 and 4 cylinder with the FICM compensation disconnected

-List to do now
- Check push road on two cylinder with low relative compression (Cylinder 4 and 5)
- Change two injectors with low contribution (Cylinder 1 and 4) to cylinder 2 and 6
- Crank case pressure when I reassemble the engine again (VALUES FOR THIS?)
- First start of the engine black and wihite smoke for about 3 minute then never more.

In my first post I have pictures from IDS VCM

Thanks again to all for your time, I will keep posting and if you have any more Ideas please let me know

Martin Etchart from Chile Patagonia

 

Hello

After 4 month, finally I have the time to start disassembling the engine. I remove the passenger valve cover, the high-pressure oil rail and number 1 and number 5 injector to change with other injector in the other side and check if the problem move with the injector.

Now I have a question, how can I check the pushrod without remove the head? Can I just remove the head stud from number 1 and 5 cylinder (ARP HEAD STUD) and then re torque? This is an Ford E350 6.0 with no engine space to work.

Can I move injector to other side with the same orings and copper washer just to test if the problem move with the injector and then if is al ok put new oring and copper washer?

Thanks for all your time and help

Martin Etchart



Passenger side head from rear (Ford E350 6.0)

 

Sadly you really want to use new washers and O-rings for the testing.

I have seem somewhere that you can remove a stud and re-torque.

Been thinking that there has to be a way to test with a dial gauge
while the push rod is still in place. The lift and duration won't be
the same if the rod is bent. I am just not sure on how to set that up
of if you will have enough room.

I know that when we installed push rods we first ran them over
some flat glass and listened for any ticking sounds as they rolled.
If you got a tick it was bent.

 

Ck push rods,cam,lifters,roller with a dial indicator gauge setup then compare to other cylinders. Can ck piston rods same way,pull injector put small tip gauge into hole,get almost to tdc and set gauge,turn slow by hand to get max lift,compare to other cylinders.This is the method we use to ck big trucks so id think same work on the 6.0.

 

That was what I was thinking but have never done it and was unsure on the how 2.
I know that they make a TDC tool for stinging into the injector port or spark plug hole
in the case of a gas engine.

The one thing I was thinking could be an issue was placement of the tip of the gauge
with each valve. I would think that they should be in the same location on each valve.

 

im not sure what the rocker arm ratio is on the 6.0 but if placed over the same end as the push rod it will be a 1 to 1 where on other end it the lift will be multiplied 1.5 or whatever the rocker arm ratio is and the gauge will not move that far so get a full lift on pushrod end and setup on next ie/intake and compare its total lift,most dial gauges have a 2-3" tip.

 

Thanks again for your time and help.

Now I have to bought injector oring set from eBay and wait 2 weeks for the set arrive to my country.

I going to remove one stud bolt a time check push rods and re torque stud bolt to 210 lbs.

Thanks I will keep posting about this until finish