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Ford 390 Dizzy install question

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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 02:27 AM
  #1  
kawasakiklx1's Avatar
kawasakiklx1
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Ford 390 Dizzy install question

Installed a '76 390 dizzy in my 72 today. Motor is not stock to that truck, but the stroke tells me it's a 390.

Everything went exceptionally well, except one thing. The lip where the dizzyeets the block is higher than I'm used to seeing. The plate still attached, but it's obviously at an angle. I compared the dizzy and there was a difference in lenths, but the motor is definitely a 390, so I'm not sure what's going on!

The new dizzy seems to be fine except for the height. Is this normal at all? What gives? The seal seems to be seated and you can see the top of it in this pic.

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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 06:46 AM
  #2  
KsHighboy's Avatar
KsHighboy
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Push down on the dizzy and jump the solenoid across. Looks like it might need to go down a touch. Sometimes this will pull it on down.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 07:15 AM
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I'm wondering if your oil pump driveshaft didn't pop up when removing the old distributor and it's not letting the new one sit down properly. I would resolve the issue before starting the engine. Hopefully the pump driveshaft didn't come up out of the oil pump. That is the purpose of the washer on the shaft assuming it's still there.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 08:06 AM
  #4  
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HIO Silver
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From: NorCal
Dizzy isn't seated.

Put a socket on the crank bolt, rock it back n forth while applying downward pressure on the dizzy.

.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 08:32 AM
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orich
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Possibly it's just a new fat dizzy 0-ring seal.

But do check the oil pressure very first thing when starting the engine for the first time to ensure the oil pump drive rod did not drop into pan.

If your worried about it seating down more then, I'd remove an measure the inner depth on both Dizzy's of how far the pump drive rod goes into shaft end, so you'll know it's not bottoming out an keeping the dizzy from seating down more.
Orich
 
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 08:36 AM
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Not seated all the way down.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 09:16 AM
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MIKES 68 F100
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dizzy gear is in sink with cam gear , but the oil pump drive shaft is not , just bump the ignition a couple times and it will drop .
 
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by MIKES 68 F100
dizzy gear is in sink with cam gear , but the oil pump drive shaft is not , just bump the ignition a couple times and it will drop .
2X, Exactly
 
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 05:57 PM
  #9  
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Yes on all the above. But do not pull the distributor out and push it back in. Or you may pull the oil pump drive shaft out. And then you lift the engine and drop the pan.

This problem is a major weakness in Ford's engine design.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 09:13 PM
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TeachNlive4ever
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Originally Posted by CougarJohn
Yes on all the above. But do not pull the distributor out and push it back in. Or you may pull the oil pump drive shaft out. And then you lift the engine and drop the pan.

This problem is a major weakness in Ford's engine design.
thats not a true statement unless the keeper ring has been removed. Not knowing that, I concurs. Do not lift it. Bump the solenoid and it will drop into place and NOT loose the timing you set it at.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 09:34 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by TeachNlive4ever
thats not a true statement unless the keeper ring has been removed. Not knowing that, I concurs. Do not lift it. Bump the solenoid and it will drop into place and NOT loose the timing you set it at.
Too late! I got it to seat, but it wouldn't spin to time, so I had to remove and reinstall. It all went well and the truck runs! First time I've heard it. 90% of the sound if coming from a huge exhaust leak on the header. Luckily, I have a new set of headers from my truck I bought 20 years ago and never installed.

After the holidays, I am going to get everything together and record my experiences, including part numbers.

What do you guys normally advance your timing to? I am noticing it bogs under load. I didn't hook up the vacuum advance though because I didn't have the line. That might help?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 09:38 PM
  #12  
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TeachNlive4ever
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We love happy endings. Great for you. We got our project fired up tonight too. Not a pump though. Have you posted a pic of your ride. I'm a lil behind on the kingdom.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 10:28 PM
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orich
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It kind of depends on the climate you live in to setting the timing.

Many guys go for 10*btdc. Now if the vacuum advance is not set for your engine it may ping when you get on it some.

I don't push the timing up just about stock setting of 8* then if it pings, I then reset the advances setting. The vacuum advance is adjustable inside the hose nipple use a Allen wrench think 1/8" if, I remember right?

Orich
 
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 11:44 PM
  #14  
kawasakiklx1's Avatar
kawasakiklx1
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Originally Posted by TeachNlive4ever
We love happy endings. Great for you. We got our project fired up tonight too. Not a pump though. Have you posted a pic of your ride. I'm a lil behind on the kingdom.

Here she is! Not sure who thought it wise to choose that paint, but it's all there and I picked it up for $700 with BRAND new BFG M/T's so w/e. The tires have less than 100 miles and there is a full size, matched spare.

Suggestions on easiest way to upgrade to P/S? I am thinking parts swap, just don't know what I pick from.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2016 | 07:37 AM
  #15  
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orich
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Wow another truck someone turned into a beater truck an not even a gun rack.

Well the body looks ok on the passenger side. Do you have the missing door panel pieces. At least they stopped their painting at the door jams an not mess up the dash.

Well it will give you some thing to do in your spare time after you get it running the way you want it to.

Orich
 
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