What's up guys it's been a while. So I believe I am having spooling issues with my 2000 f250 7.3 automatic truck. I now am running a 67mm billet compressor wheel with a 1.00ar turbine housing and high flow outlet so basically a thrust bearing 38r . I'm running oem sticks and PHP tunes on my hydra. On the 140 tune egts top out at 1200* uphill haha . So egts are not a problem. Boost tops out at 29-30 psi and 1-3 down the interstate. I see a lot of trucks that can hit 20+ psi in second by just squashing the skinny petal and I could also do this with my oem turbo. Mine takes awhile to get psi up like I said it will hit 30 if I'm petal to the carpet for a few and get going but I feel like it's not spooling as quickly as it "should " . I completely built this turbo with new parts nothing was reused down to the heat sheild behind the turbine wheel inside the turbine housing. I used all American And Canadian built parts . 360 thrust and a banks 1.00 turbine housing. When I bought the turbine shaft and compressor wheel it stated that they where pre balanced and I could clearly see the balancing marks on both but the shaft and compressor wheel are from two different manufacturers so there was no way to be sure that everything would align and be balanced. Basically my question is do you think it would to be wise to have the assembly balanced? Could this be the reason the turbo doesn't spool as fast as my oem gtp38 did . I've been running the turbo for four months now . Thanks

 

My old stock GTP38 would hit 30 PSI with air mods, and sometimes peak at 32 PSI. With all those mods you have, it is no longer a stock turbo, so it will be very hard to predict how it should behave without some serious testing in a laboratory environment.

In order to make your own laboratory environment, you need to...

1. ...make absolutely certain there are no intake or exhaust leaks - including the plenums. My plenum seals blew at 30-32 PSI boost.
2. ...make sure your boost and Exhaust Back Pressure readings are accurate. I have a boost fooler that I know regulates pressure to 22 PSI. I can hook up a gauge/sensor with the fooler in line, blow air into the regulator, and verify the gauge.
3. ...log your information from the OBDII port. You'll need to log ICP, IPR, FIPW (those three combined are the throttle), boost or MAP, Exhaust Back Pressure, and RPM. You can then share the info here to compare the performance with other trucks.

 

Also consider that your trying to spool a bigger compressor wheel with a looser turbine housing.

 

There are 0 leaks . That is why I assumed the turbo wasn't balanced correctly. For certain I am going to put flat billet intake plenums because I have them . I can't justify tearing everything apart to install them until I do injectors and a t4 mount. Tugly I never thought about the plenums leaking boost .

 

what if I put my.84 housing back on would that be a bad idea

 

The larger turbo and larger housing is causing the longer spool times with the stock sticks. A smaller housing would certainly help the turbo spool faster, but would also increase your EGT's. In addition, as Tugly mentioned you need to make sure that you have zero leaks on the exhaust and intake.

Larger injectors and more air will help with spool up times of your current turbo, but that will cost you to do right.

I rebuilt my stock turbo with a RiffRaff 4/4 billet wheel and 360 bearing and can reach 30+ PSI if pushed (only done it a couple of times during testing) and hold 28 PSI when climbing a grade with the 5th wheel attached. This measurement is from a boost gauge and electronic sensor mounted to the AIH hole on the spider.

 

I don't want higher egts and it won't be long and I'll have bigger sticks. I have hit 30psi maybe 6 times but I really had to get her moving on down the road. I figure once I do some 250 200s with springs pushrods studs and the flat intake plenums this turbo will be to small lol . I recon I'll leave it alone until it's time to install a t4 kit .

 

Stock sticks and turbo. Air in/out mods with a chip:



Shortly after that, I blew a plenum seal and it took me a while to find the root cause of the boost issue:


Months later, GTP38R and bigger sticks with the billet plenum intake (boost top right gauge):

 

Tugly how fast where you going in the videos when you stepped on it? You may have something here with the plenums leaking how can I test them what will I need

 

what app are you using on your tablet I like the layout of those gauges

 

That's the Torque Pro app. It's definitely worth $5 plus the cost of a Bluetooth OBD dongle.

 

Brad, what are you using for your display in the pic above? Tablet? Joying/Android? etc.?

 

I actually have both of those a tablet and a obd Bluetooth reader but I've never seen the option for that style of gauges

 

you custom built these didn't you! Very clean and useful

 

That's a screen shot from my Nexus 7 tablet. The gauge style and background are add ons you can download. I can't remember if I found them in the Torque app, or from the Google Play store, it's been a few years. I loosely copied Tugly's layout.